ICF - Perplexing

[TBA]

I keep scratching my head but cannot seem to come to any logical reason why the particular ICF brand that I'd like to use would manufacture their 90 degree corners with outside lengths of 16" and 28".

http://www.superformproducts.com/corner.htm

Why in heavens name are the sides not 16" and 32" so that any square or rectangular foundation using full foot measurements IE 28' by 48' could be built without the need to piecemeal the ICF's. In this particular scenario the blocks come up 4" short on each side/end.

I have written the company some while ago asking if I'm missing something here, but alas, no response has been forthcoming.

Am I missing something? Can anyone shed some light on this for me? :-?


Thanks.

[glenn kangiser]

My cousin is pretty big in ICF's and he says there are a lot of bad ones out there.  He was last recommending Reward walls I think it was called.  Useable upside down -- right side up and backwards --maybe not that much but more versitile than others.

http://www.rewardwalls.com/

[JRR]

It does look a bit confusing at first.  

But they seem to have made the blocks so that they are easy to cut to make a "piecemeal" fit.  That is, the inside grooves are placed between the buttons and button-recesses.  A person can make the cut in a goove and have a custom block-length that will fit up well.  This way, they can just manufacture a few different shapes that wil meet "all" needs.

I suppose they want the vertical block joints NOT to line-up between the adjacent horizontal courses ... that would mean a RH corner block would sit ontop of a LH corner block and etc.

[TBA]

Thanks for the comments.

With this system I'll need to add a 4" section in every row (5) by 4 sides - 20 patched-in pieces that will need to be shored up to prevent blow-outs simply because the corners aren't made to equal a 4' length when applied opposing in the corners. You'd think they would have made them 4" longer for adjustments as it's a whole lot easier to shorten them as to lengthen them - way less bracing IMO.

Hmmm - maybe it will be easier to not install them opposing as suggested - then I'll be shortening a standard 4' length every row rather than patching little pieces in?
:-/

[JRR]

ICF seems like a good idea.  I've never worked with the stuff.  But I know I would be really nervous when that wet concrete fills up those forms.  Perhaps there is to be several pours atop one another??

The ICF insulating form must have enough tensile strength (in all directions) to resist the outward force of that wet concrete.  Think of a balloon filled with water.  If there is a crucial weakness in the "membrane" ... there will be failure!

So read the instructions carefully ... they may INSIST the adjacent courses alternate.  I would try to visit someone else's underway project if you can find one.

Be very attentive to forms around/in window and door openings.

[TBA]

Thanks JRR

There are no window/door openings to contend with thankfully.

This particular brand of ICF appealed to me because they are wider (thicker walled) than most coupled with being only 12" high makes them somewhat less risky to use. Many other brands are thinner walled and 16" high making them much easier to bow etc. The 16" ICF's are less costly due to less rows required, but IMO, are more prone to blow-outs etc.

Anyway, my footings are formed and ready for the pumper Monday AM, otherwise I'd make them to accept walls 4" less per side and perhaps use brick or rock on the exposed above grade portion to meet the designed house size which would cantilever 2".

[Miedrn]

Is this something that could be DIY? I mentioned it to my oldest son and he just gave me "the look".   I don't think he realizes just how serious I am about this yet...

I thought of having the footings done professionally......just thought I could put leggo's together as long as I had about six or eight people there for the pour! I want a basement but the thought of paying someone $20,000 dollars to do it just doesn't sit well. It might even cost more now!

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

[Amanda_931]

Some of those systems are more DYI than others, from the time when I was thinking about them.  You need to be able to work fast and pump/spray the concrete--either not have a blowout at all, or be able to fix it with no problem.

Back in the days when they used concrete to plaster a straw bale building, one project had a local pool contractor spraying, somebody mixing in, IIRC, a mortar mixer.  Might be able to do something like that.  

Or there are these huge concrete pumper jobs.  this guy talks about how wonderful his is.

http://www.gallupsconcretepumping.com/CompanyInfo.htm

That's in addition to the mixer truck--I think.

[TBA]

MEIDRN - I'll be doing this myself. The main problems/pifalls/concerns are with proper shoring/bracing etc and I'm sure I'll happily overdo that (seen a blowout happen before). I had my 72 year old father (he's in great shape) helping out with the footings and I've nearly drove him nuts with how meticulous I've been with square - level - straight, anyway, I recall feeling the same way about his carpentry during a house build or two that he has done over the years.............

Here are some helpful videos on ICF, a company called PlastiFab. I'd use their product however it's not available where I am and shipping would probably put the cost effectiveness over the top - light stuff, but large volume.

http://www.plastifab.com/Consumer/video.html