Joints and siding

Started by beckhamk, February 20, 2012, 06:41:25 AM

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beckhamk

I have a question for you guys on the installation of wood siding.  We are trying to decide on going with cement fiber siding or wood siding.  When reviewing the plans for the cement siding i noticed that they wanted metal flashing installed behind ever joint where two sidings come together.  I was curious if doing hald D log or chink siding if you had to do the same thing or not?

Alan Gage

A strip of tar paper is also commonly used. That's what I did behind the joints on my cedar siding. It's no big deal.

Alan


beckhamk

did you do that even when you have house wrap on?

PEG688

Quote from: beckhamk on February 20, 2012, 03:56:37 PM
did you do that even when you have house wrap on?

That's what is recommended.  You lay the felt or shingle so it lays on top of the course below , so you divert the water into the face of the siding beneath the joint you are "flashing".

They sell a peel off / stick on pad of "shingles" around here, so you can just stick it on as you cover the wall.   
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

MountainDon

I precut a bunch of pieces of building felt and simply slipped one in place wherever the was an end to end joint.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


Alan Gage

Quote from: MountainDon on February 20, 2012, 05:26:28 PM
I precut a bunch of pieces of building felt and simply slipped one in place wherever the was an end to end joint.

Yep, just keep them in one of the tool belt pouches so they're handy. There were also a lot fewer butt joints than I thought there would be.

Alan

beckhamk

#6
ok thanks guys!

What about flashing for the window trim?   On my house which has stucco, looks like they z-flashed both the bottom and top of the top most trim.  Should I be doing the same for the trim around our windows?


beckhamk


MountainDon

these could help

short form  http://www.asdcosupply.com/products/GRACE-Vycor%20Plus-datasheet.pdf
long form   http://www.na.graceconstruction.com/custom/flashings/downloads/26324_Guide-B.pdf
index to assorted   http://www.na.graceconstruction.com/product.cfm?mode=c&did=26&id=41#4549

My understanding is that the flashing around the window is what provides the weather resistance; the flashing makes the window to wall joint "waterproof". Trim around windows and doors is cosmetic and not meant to make anything watertight. Any extra drip flashing is insurance; helps provide a path outwards for any water.   On some walls with generous eve overhang the window / door may already be very sheltered from rainfall.


Perhaps PEG or Don_P will have something to add or correct.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


Don_P

The true drip edge on a finned window IMO is at the fin. This is the one I use peel and stick flashing tucked under the tyvek. If it is exposed I'll install the window casing trim and put a metal drip flashing over the top trim. I'll tyvek tape this one to the surface of the tyvek. I consider it to be mainly providing the required siding gap and intrusion protection for that gap. If I'm under a porch I don't worry about it and run the siding down tight on the trim and caulk it. Under an eave it's a judgement call, water can blow into amazing places. I have the local metal roofing shop bend colored heavy guage flashings (and the reason I don't spend that money in protected areas).

beckhamk

Thanks guys this has been helpful.  We had finned windows and had the tyvek tape along with the rubbery sticky flashing tape already around the windows and doors as the siding isnt up yet. Everything has been holding well.

So for us it would seem that this is just some additional insurance.