24x46 build with loft

[smithelectric]

Hello i have 30 acres and plan on building a 24x46 cabin. I'm debating on using 6"x8" logs i can get from sawmill or stick building.
Also im going to poor the footer and do the block work myself and trying to figure out the cost on that. ?? I The goal is to get it dried in this summer, walls up and roof on with atleast tyvek on the outside. Any advice would be great.

[Erin]

The goal is to get it dried in this summer, walls up and roof on with atleast tyvek on the outside.

How big is your crew going to be?  Working full time, a handful of guys can probably do this. 
If it's just you on the weekends...well, umm....I hope you're more successful than I. 

BTW, welcome to Country Plans!

[smithelectric]

I have a few Amish guys that will be helping with the framing and the rafters or trusses .thank you . Great website

[Don_P]

 
On the footings, 8"thick x 16" wide is typical. That translates to .878 cubic feet of concrete per lineal foot of footing. At 24x46 you have 140 lineal feet of footing x .878=123 cu ft. Theres 27 cu ft per cubic yard of concrete, 4.55 yards by the math, I'd order 5 yards. 2 runs of #4 rebar and about 40 chairs to set that on, a roll of tie wire.

for rough block estimating, they are 16" long, divide feet of wall by 4 and multiply by 3
140 lf of wall/4=35
35x3=105
I'd order 115 blocks per course.

I think the sakrete website has a mortar calc unless someone has a number in their head.

Sawmill timbers... have you thought about timberframe or post and beam?

[smithelectric]

thank you for the help Don.
Yes i like post and beam but i have no experience with building that way. I can get all the logs for really cheap but then i would have to let them dry out for a year. I dont want to wait that long to build .

[Squirl]

Don outlined a footing that will work for most conditions.  You didn't mention the load bearing capacity of the soil or stories.  You can see outlined charts of footing widths here:
http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_4_sec003.htm

According to ACI-318 footing thickness is require to be, 6 inches single story, 7 inches two story, 8 inches three story.  That is a full thickness not nominal.  Most books say 8" because people use a 2x8 to achieve 7.25 inches, a 2x6 is only 5.5 inches and would fail to achieve the minimum thickness.  Even for a single story it is just faster and easier to use a 2x8 rather than cutting a dozen boards to 6".  I learned that one the hard way.

Thickness is also dependent on width. So if you have really bad soil you may have to go a little thicker
http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/footing_fundamentals/spanning_a_soft_spot.htm

I just called up the local concrete supply to get the cost.  Around me, it cost around $100 a yard delivered.  Concrete is heavy and takes a lot of diesel to move, so the closest place will probably be cheapest.

20 ft. pieces of #4 rebar cost me $7 a little over a year ago.

The local block company charged me $1.25 a block with a $40 dollar delivery charge for all of it.  The local big box stores were selling the same blocks at $1.50 a block.

The mortar estimators I used estimated a bag of mortar per 10 blocks.  I got anywhere from 15-18 blocks per bag.  I used the extra for 'topping' the blocks (filling the top block with mortar and insert J bolts).  You can use a solid half block as a top course, but IMHO it is a pain in the rear to get the J-bolts right.  I ordered the mortar with the block so the delivery was included.  As an amateur, I prefer the premix.  Rather than driving all around to get all the ingredients, I pay the extra few dollars and have them ready and delivered. 

You could pay a little extra and go with dry stack block, instead of mortar.  You mortar the first and last row and just stack the rest and surface bond cement both sides of the wall.  SBC estimators estimate 50 square feet per bag. 

All this will be dependent on how tall you build the walls.

If you are in an earthquake zone, you will have to factor in rebar and grout.

I tried to spend a lot of time outlining my process on my build.  You can read about it here.
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10998.msg143361#msg143361

[smithelectric]

thank ya Squirl great info!