Drywall & Battens?

[rwanders]

I am building a 1 1/2 story cabin in Alaska----24x24 with 10x24 loft and 10x24 two story porch/balcony. Roof is 12/12 pitch with cathedral ceiling--peak is 24' above floor. I will be using 1x6 T&G pine for ceiling. Walls are 12'. Am considering using 4x12 rock applied vertically on walls and using 1x6 pine "battens" on the vertical seams. Would like to avoid having to tape/mud those seams since I prefer smooth finish (no texture) and have only amateur skills in that area. The battens would also continue the 1x6 pattern/theme on the ceilings. Has anyone tried this wall treatment before? Would it look weird? Any input gratefully received. Maggie in Hawaii-----do you have any artistic input for me on this?   

[glenn kangiser]

Depends on what you want to see and work with.

Sheetrock to me portrays modern - wood old.

Wall displays pix etc would be interrupted by the vertical 1x6.  It would give you special trim problems at openings - doors- windows etc. and may be hard to make look decent in those areas - ie: seam off to one side - split down a window edge etc. 

Thinking about all the different fill in areas with cut up sheetrock sizes etc., it seems like it would be very hard to make come out in an acceptable fashion.

[Redoverfarm]

I am like glenn regarding what you have proposed to do.  To do drywall properly the joints should be staggered to eliminate cracking.  If two sheets broke at the same location on a verticle there would be a very good possibility that a crack would develope.  If you tried to cover all seams you would end up with a "patchwork" appearance. 

Maybe this will help if you do decide to tape and mud your drywall.

http://www.drywallinfo.com/tapingjoints.html

[TheWire]

Does anyone know what Ross Caphin architects use on their cabin ceilings?  Its a batten type design but I don't know what the base material is.

[Redoverfarm]

It looks like that look can be achieved with drywall or plywood.  If it is drywall it appears they finished the drywall first and added the batten strips as part of the design.  The ceiling has quite a sheen to it as if it is plywood. Just from appearance that is what it looks like.

[fishing_guy]

Don't forget that most common drywall is tapered along the length direction to assist is the taping.  This goes a couple of inches along the edge.  I think this would show up if you did no mudding of the seams.

The trick to good taping is to have the right tools and to add mud slowly. 

As for the right tools, a series of knifes of increasing length is paramount.  A pro can get by with a couple, the amateur may need three.  Start small for the first coat and then increase the knife length as you add coats.  I also prefer a 90 degree knife for the corners.  It takes some getting used to, but once you get the hang of it the finished product can't be beat.

Remember, it is easier (and less messy) to add a coat then to remove excess.  So take your time and make sure you review the finished product in good light before painting.  Walls are so much easier than ceilings, so you have the worst out of the way. 

I agree with Glenn.  Too many ways for the seams to end.  It would break up the walls too much.

[MountainDon]

I absolutely 'second' fishing-guy's comment on the tools. The proper tools are the main key to doing drywall taping. There's no way around that. And too much mud slapped on is worse than too little.



And I still don't like doing drywall myself either.

[NM_Shooter]

So... I think I agree with Glenn... it depends what look you are going for.  But I like this idea a lot. 

My cabin is going to be very rustic..I was considering just sheeting the inside walls with OSB, and sealing with a varnish.  I want a cheap way to finish off the inside.  But I like your idea.  I think the battens might look better if they were smaller... maybe only an inch or two wide.  I don't think you need to worry about cracks.  In my limited experience, cracks develop on the joints, not in the middle of the sheetrock, and your joints would be covered with the battens.  You'll lose a bit of structural integrity by running the 'rock vertically, but probably not too much.

I think this is a great idea, especially if you are not interested in symmetry of finish (around windows and doors, back splashes, etc). 

Thanks for this idea!!!!   

-f-

[MountainDon]

I had not thought about doing something like this. However, on reflection I realize my neighbor has done  a similar thing with mini-grooved plywood 4x8 panels. He covered his ceiling with them and ran battens over all the joints.

It looks okay and to many they'd never guess the reason; a simple easy way to finish the ceiling. No reason it couldn't apply to walls I suppose.

I've said it before; I really don't lie finishing drywall. Maybe I'll consider a battened drywall ceiling?     The introduction od some smooth painted surface can add to the appearance. I like wood; naturally finished wood, but sometimes find wood walls, floor and ceiling too much of a good thing.

[NM_Shooter]

I just had some ideas about this...

1)  pay attention to window layout location and you can decrease symmetry issues with battens.

2)  place additional "fake" battens on 24" centers (or whatever) to further decrease symmetry issues.  This would require thinner battens though.

3)  Add chair rail trim to set this off.  Put chair rail on first and then trim with the battens.

-f-

[rwanders]

Thanks for all the input/advice! I love the generosity of the posters at this site. I agree that thinner battens on the vertical seams would look better and will certainly try out a 24" layout too. I am also thinking about how to finish the 1x6 pine t&g on the vaulted ceiling-----how does clear satin polyurethane sound? I am thinking I would like to see the grain but also keep it light. I am pretty sure my window and door layout won't clash with the battens and look too "busy".   

[MountainDon]

As for the clear satin finish I would like that. I like the ones that dry truly clear, not yellowish like most oil based 'clear' finishes. They're milky in the can but dry clear. I also love satin over glossy.

[TheWire]

You might consider using a linseed oil type finish for your T&G on the ceiling.  It goes on a lot easier than varnish and is not affected by dust while its drying.  I roller or brush it on, wait 15 minutes, wipe it off, wait 2-3 hours and put it up.  I used Velvit Oil http://www.velvitproducts.com/products/VelvitOil.html.  Its available in lots of colors.  We used it on trim and doors also and it holds up well.

CAUTION: If you use a linseed oil based product you MUST take care to seal or dispose rags saturated with the oil.  It will start on fire it left wet in a pile.  When building our loghome I would take the rags and put them into a bag and set them away from the house until I threw them in our campfire.  One morning there was nothing but a black circle where the bag of rags had been.  They self ignited.

Jerry

[CREATIVE1]

How about a beyond battens, timber frame look, with horizontal and vertical members and some angled pieces just for fun?  Maybe over plywood, which in our area costs the same as drywall?  Or on paperless drywall, which according to my son can look like plaster and stucco?
A link, not the best, but gives you the idea--
http://www.millcreekinfo.com/phototwo.html

[rwanders]

Thanks Creative1----great link to some beautiful timber frame rooms. Very tempting, but not sure I can pull off a similar look in my much smaller space.

[CREATIVE1]

I'm willing to try it on my Victoria, though obviously sized for the space, but most of mine will be structural in some way.

[Okie_Bob]

One thing everyone seems to have forgotten and that is hiring someone to do the drywall for you!!! Everyone seems
to hate doing it and I'm at the top of that list. I found this is one area that for whatever reason can still be contracted very
inexpensively. In fact, if you provide the sheetrock you might be surprised how cheaply you can get it installed and finished.
I have a blog with some pics of my place here http://www.bobdanaslakehouse.blogspot.com/ and you can get an idea
of the amount of sheetrock. I believe the cost of hiring the entire job was $1200. I bought the sheetrock and had it delivered to the site.
The crew came in and in less than two days had all the sheetrock up and screwed in place. One lead guy and three young helpers did the taping and bedding, primed it and painted it and they furnished the paint and primer....for $1,200 I thought I had stole it!
Okie Bob
PS: they did a beautiful job, in my opinion and no texture...I prefer the smooth finish as well.