Bolting down 6x6 post bracket to concrete

[astidham]

hello all, i plan on pouring concrete into sonotube on top of my footings.
I was wondering if after i let the concrete set up, is it safe to drill holes and anchor my post brackets with concrete anchors, or is it better to sink the brackets in wet concrete.

[poppy]

You can do it either way, but setting the anchors in wet (not too wet) concrete sure is easier.

[astidham]

Thanks Poppy,
I was thinking that adding them later might make aligning them easier.

[MountainDon]

Setting j-bolts into the wet concrete gives an easy and solid anchor and to my mind is a better method than drilling and using expanding anchors, or using the epoxy type. Or using the type of brackets that are set into the wet concrete is another way.

As for the alignment, most brackets I've used have had slots so the placement need not be as exact as you may think.

[astidham]

MountainDon,
Thank You for your reply.
do you know an example where the adjustable brackets were used here?
By the way, I have bought plans for the 20x30 1 story.
i think i will make it 20x36 with a pier foundation on 6' spacing and build 10' side walls

[glenn kangiser]

Jonesy in Australia used adjustable brackets he called stumps but his method was a bit different than we use here partially because of their having termite problems. 

[Redoverfarm]

The better method is to set or secure the brackets into the wet.  Like others have said that the downside is alignment and elivation.  I am not sure what type of bracket you are using but some even have the feet (anchor) allowing the majority of the bracket to be exposed while having an anchor actually embedded in the concrete.  If no anchors are present as Don suggested using "j" bolts will work.

You can however make a jig to allow you to set them in proper alignment.  Using 2X6 screwed onto the sides of the sono tube with drywall screws in proper alignment  with the headed portion of the screw to the inside.  Then attach a short piece (either to fit inside of the 2X6's or on top) of your beam width material to the bracket.  Mark the location (elevation) on these two braces and once you have your concrete poured to the heigth to where your brackets go insert the bracket (now containing the mock up beam width) and then attach the filler (beam makeup width) to the 2X6's that you have attached previously with drywall screws.

It takes some time to set this up with a string line but it will work to make sure that the proper heigth and alignment are maintained.    

[MountainDon]

astidham, are you planning on placing the beam on top of the concrete pier? How wide a beam?

[John Raabe]

Another way to do this (if the beam isn't too long) is to tack the brackets to the beam and then align and temporarily support the beam in place over the tubes. You may need to pack the last bit of concrete around the bracket posts and then shim here and there before nailing off the brackets.

[astidham]

MountainDon, i planned on putting my 6x6 post on top for more height and then the beam on top

[MountainDon]

This Simpson Page has an assortment of post bases.

This is a very sturdy one, and is buried in the concrete.   CB series


This one has an adjustable base and is bolted down. AB  series

[astidham]

Thanks MountainDon,
i think the ab series looks a little easier to use since i would only need allthread centered.

[MountainDon]

Use an anchor bolt...

[eddiescabin]

The first Simpson in Mtn Don's pic that is embedded in the concrete is far superior to the latter.  With large beams mounted on 6x6 here, you must use the embedded type.  Found this out wanting to mount a large span header above a large block foundation with mud sill/ J-bolts...