Okanogan 14x24 by a lurker :)

[OlJarhead]

Tell me that those wires showing on the top of the box aren't the ones that go into the 2500W inverter!  There is no way they will carry slightly over 208 amps DC (under full load - and that's just for the output, not to mention the couple amps for the internal electronics).  How many amps does the manual say that thing draws under full load? ... of course it might simply be rated at 70.7% of DC current at full load, which would only be about 145 amps   I'd guess that the wire would be something close to the size of a regular battery cable.  Very cool that they sent them with the ends prepped 

Yeah, I know it won't be run under full load - at least not often and not for more than a couple seconds, but you'll need to have hefty wire, and short runs from battery to inverter to minimize the voltage drop.

Is that a "modified sine wave" inverter?

Very cool, tho.  That should just about power anything you'd want it to (except the beer cooler).

The recommended battery cables are 1/0 which those don't appear to be -- but I haven't looked close enough to them to be sure.

And yes, it's a modified sine wave inverter.

[OlJarhead]

What a MONSTER!  I'm absolutely floored at the size and weight of this thing...sheesh.  

If that impresses you how about the Outback VFX3524M (mine). 62 lbs.



javaman, no offense to you, but that's square wave, maybe a modified square wave. Sine waves are curves, no corners. "Modified" is adman talk. At best they should be named as being a stepped wave.

But for a lot of purposes they work well enough especially when price is factored in.



I liken the difference to stomping on the gas and then stomping on the brakes instead a smoother application of gas and brakes like a good road racer. Or letting the door slam shut instead of having a hydraulic closer smooth it out. Motors prefer being treated smoothly instead of being slammed.

*chuckle* Of course that is correct but for laymens terms and how they sell the products they are listed as Modified Sine Wave.

Specifications

    * Continuous output power: 2500 Watts. Use our 200 amp inline fuse.
    * Surge power capability (peak power): 5000 Watts
    * dc input / operating voltage: 10 to 15 Volts
    * Output voltage: 120 Volts ac +/- 10%
    * Output wave form: modified sine wave with phase correction
    * Output frequency: 60 Hz +/- 1 Hz
    * Battery low voltage alarm: 10.5 +/- 0.5 Volts
    * Battery low voltage shutdown: 10.0 +/- 0.5 Volts
    * AC amps: 21
    * DC amps: 208
    * No load current: .45 Amps
    * Full load efficiency: 90%
    * 1/3 load efficiency: 95%
    * No load minimum operating temperature: -15 degrees Celsius
    * Full load maximum operating temperature: 55 +/- 5 degrees Celsius (automatic shutdown)
    * AC Output Socket Type: dual Type 2 -3 prong
    * High input voltage protection: 15V-17V
    * Low input voltage shutdown: 10V
    * Internal fuse protection · Product size (L x W x H): 15"X 10.25"X 3"
    * Weight: 14
    * UL maximum recommended per outlet 1500W

On a side note, Modified Sine inverters can't run everything a Pure Sine inverter will but from my neighbors experience they will pretty much run everything you might need except maybe that lithium battery charger or high end microwave....oh sure, there are other devices but at $229 I decided to go this route and have the full 2500 watts of power.  If in the future I can afford a pure sine inverter I'll get one but for now I think this will work.

[JavaMan]

What a MONSTER!  I'm absolutely floored at the size and weight of this thing...sheesh.  

If that impresses you how about the Outback VFX3524M (mine). 62 lbs.



javaman, no offense to you, but that's square wave, maybe a modified square wave. Sine waves are curves, no corners. "Modified" is adman talk. At best they should be named as being a stepped wave.

But for a lot of purposes they work well enough especially when price is factored in.



I liken the difference to stomping on the gas and then stomping on the brakes instead a smoother application of gas and brakes like a good road racer. Or letting the door slam shut instead of having a hydraulic closer smooth it out. Motors prefer being treated smoothly instead of being slammed.

Don, no offense taken.  It's been close to 20 years since I was involved in inverter design.  Modified square wave was indeed what I actually meant    My team had come up with a unique method of generating an actual sine wave inverter, but had troubles with the output FETs blowing.  We were trying to power a small refrigerator (like the size of a hotel 'fridge or dorm room fridge).  Ah, the good ol' days  

One of the advantages from a design perspective is that you really have no zero-crossing worries with the modified sine wave.  Plus the output devices are running at somewhere around 50% duty cycle, which helps keep them cool.

But as you point out, Don, they can be very rough on some appliances - especially those with motors in them.

[OlJarhead]

Got the mill assembled today


And mounted it to the saw.


Another shot.

I also bought two ripping chains and other goodies I think I mentioned earlier.

I look forward to trying to make lumber.

Some of the things I want to make:

1.  Blue Stained 1x6 or 1x8 siding for the shed -- plan to use old logs for this as I think they will be blue stained already and very dry (they seemed pretty dry anyway).

2.  1x6 interior knotty pine paneling.

3.  2x4 and 2x6 lumber for sheds, pump house, battery box etc etc

4.  4x4, 6x6 and/or 6x8 pine beams for deck

I'll have to look span tables up but I'm hoping a 6x8 beam made of pine will work for the deck.  I've got some LONG Ponderosa's out there and I read somewhere they are used becuase of their clear and straight trunks when they are tall.

[JavaMan]

The angle on that second picture makes it look like you switched bars on that saw    That looks about the same size as my Stihl - actually the wife's Stihl... long story on that one - I'll tell it to you sometime over coffee...

I still want to take my torque wrench to the mill and make certain that all the nuts and bolts are tightened to spec, but I think it's pretty good.

I hadn't thought of making siding out of the fallen trees around here ... I was wondering what I was going to side the place with!  Thanks for that idea!

[OlJarhead]

The angle on that second picture makes it look like you switched bars on that saw    That looks about the same size as my Stihl - actually the wife's Stihl... long story on that one - I'll tell it to you sometime over coffee...

I still want to take my torque wrench to the mill and make certain that all the nuts and bolts are tightened to spec, but I think it's pretty good.

I hadn't thought of making siding out of the fallen trees around here ... I was wondering what I was going to side the place with!  Thanks for that idea!

Nah optical illusion.  20" bar in all pics

I'm going to make siding and more if the setup works ok and if it does I might buy a bigger saw and a bigger mill or a bandsaw mill if tax return is good

I want to make ALL the lumber I need!

[JavaMan]

Yeah, I bought mine because I needed something fairly "soon" and didn't want to wait until I saved enough for a bandsaw mill, which I will purchase once I stop spending money on the cabin for a bit and can save up for one.

Just missed one on Craigslist for about $700 without the engine ... so I know they can be had at a reasonable price, if I simply wait for it.

I picked up a door yesterday, and am pretty much loaded up and ready for tomorrow morning.  Are you heading up to your place anytime soon?

[OlJarhead]

Yeah, I bought mine because I needed something fairly "soon" and didn't want to wait until I saved enough for a bandsaw mill, which I will purchase once I stop spending money on the cabin for a bit and can save up for one.

Just missed one on Craigslist for about $700 without the engine ... so I know they can be had at a reasonable price, if I simply wait for it.

I picked up a door yesterday, and am pretty much loaded up and ready for tomorrow morning.  Are you heading up to your place anytime soon?

Going up the 2nd I think.  Plan to stay to the 6th and then return the 14th or 15th for a week long stay.

Then it's hard to say.  Being home is killing me because I can work on the cabin, can't mill lumber and can't make furniture so the next trip I'm cutting 3" rounds for end tables, some slabs for coffee table (s) and some legs.  I'll bring it all home and finish them here with the tenon cutter and Forstner bits.  My hope is to make burl like end and coffee tables out of pine slabs and rounds and then see where that takes me....

[OlJarhead]

Last trip we left these trees and planned to buck them into firewood on our next visit however....


We bucked them into 8' and 6' (1) logs for milling instead.

I figured it was best to practice on old crappy dry logs before tackling something more worthwhile -- didn't want to mess up potential interior paneling!


We set up the new sawmill (Granbergs Small Log Alaskan Mill) and began making a cant.


Cutting the 2nd pass -- bottom of cant.


One more pass and we can mill lumber.

The boys did the heavy lifting and I did the milling.


First cant ready to mill into lumber.  I cut too much off of it but learned by my mistake.


1st board -- a 1x6.

Later I cut some 1x8 (same size log better planning) and we used the wood to side the shed.  I'll post more tomorrow but it's time for sleep!

[OlJarhead]

While waiting for my sinuses to clear I decided to toss these up too:)


We cut 10 boards before needing to sharpen the chains but I didn't have the right size file so had to stop


So we used the lumber to side the old shed.


I think the boys enjoy this kind of work far more then the rest...specially with the gun.


I can't wait to mill this tree!  I cut 4 logs out of it ranging from 20 inches across to about 15.  I'll try to pull the rest of it out of the fence and off the pond (it's not in the pond but resting over it) and get a few more logs out of it.  I think the stained pine looks awesome and will make great interior panel plus perhaps floor.

I also plan to cut the trees that in the way of the solar panels and turn them into lumber.  Ones a big fir and I am thinking it will make great beams for the deck.

[Don_P]

Take a look at the shot of the log end. There is a small bullseye of heartwood. The other name for bluestain is sapstain, it does not infect heartwood. That shot also shows how it likes to travel in on the rays.

I have had one client that seemed to have trouble with allergies and bluestain.

[OlJarhead]

Would suck to have an allergy to bluestain but I'm wondering if once it's sealed with stain and verathane if it's still a problem?  Of course it is a mold right?  So that makes sense.

I have only just started to get allergies myself and seem to be allergic to the desert I live in so I'm hopeful the bluestain doesn't bother me -- hasn't so far.

Have a LOT to do to get milling right but so far I can at least make rough cut boards

[Don_P]

it's the only time I've seen what we took to be a reaction and he had been sanding heavily stained wood. You mentioned your sinuses, just something to watch for ...without looking for. The mold in the news has a lot in common with the climate in the news. But yes it is a mold. We also go back a few million years together, side by side. Sealing it is probably better inside, I prefer a cleanable surface anyway.

I'm sawing through some black locust now. It has extractives within it that give many people trouble... and then there's a good bit of heartrot in these logs, yet another species of fungi. But most people in casual contact don't react.

[OlJarhead]

A two minute video chopped into 50 seconds (to reduce it's size a little) that shows me milling some 1x's.  Nothing fancy.

[Yonderosa]

That's some purtiful siding.  I'd be tempted to use it inside somewhere.

[OlJarhead]

Got a ton done this past week!


Chimney is in but needs finishing touches.


Siding is 90% done.  Just a few patches and the batting to do.


It was about 80 tops during the day and usually around 40 at night -- so awesome!

[JavaMan]

Looking GOOD!  I bet you're happy to have it that far along!

[OlJarhead]

Looking GOOD!  I bet you're happy to have it that far along!

THanks and yes   Congrats on the job too!  I'm out of work so more time to do cabin stuff but less funds of course...ahhhh life.

[OlJarhead]

One problem I have to sort out with the Chimney install is that the collar for the roof penetration seems to cause some issue with the flashing/gasket that goes over it and seals the roof.  I can't get it to lay properly because of the clamp.  I plan to go to the chimney shop today to ask about it.


Also, I'm pushing the limits a bit on the outside and intend to cut away a few inches of the outrigger rafter to ensure the 2" clearance around the pipe.  On the inside I'm ok with just over two inches but the outside I was at 1/2" at best....gotta fix that.





The idea was the keep the chimney away from the main roof so that leakage wouldn't be an issue.  I've done that but need to clean it up a bit.

This is a heavy chimney to install too!  The boys and I fought it for some time before getting it sorted and properly secured.

[Shawn B]

I can't tell from the picture what is keeping the flashing "up". But I have installed a few of those style flashing's and they don't lay down real good until you get a few screws in them. Be sure to space the screws correctly, and to keep them center on the soft metal flange. Also I try to seal them under the flange, then apply a bead of sealant on the flange edge, especially on the steep side. Lexan, Geosel, and Through the Roof have worked well for me. The Geosel is top shelf sealant if you can find it.

Are you short a piece of metal on the eve, or does the end rake take care of that ?

[Solar Burrito]

Great progress Lurker, you've been kicking arse on your cabin lately.

Question about your siding... since I hope to be at a similar step later this summer. Are you painting that plywood and going for a board/batten look?

So it looks like you installed the windows and flashed them with tar paper then put on  your siding. Did that work well? What size trim will you use to cover the gaps between the window and the siding?

I'm trying to figure out what order I will do, we have osb sheathing then building wrap then T1-11. I may do it your way as long as it's waterproof since we get way more rain.

[Shawn B]

OlJarhead,  Cabin and land looks like a good match.....and progressing nicely. Did you buy the plans from John? I hope to start a small cabin soon...maybe a 16' x 28'.


Thanks,
Shawn

[OlJarhead]

Great progress Lurker, you've been kicking arse on your cabin lately.

Question about your siding... since I hope to be at a similar step later this summer. Are you painting that plywood and going for a board/batten look?

So it looks like you installed the windows and flashed them with tar paper then put on  your siding. Did that work well? What size trim will you use to cover the gaps between the window and the siding?

I'm trying to figure out what order I will do, we have osb sheathing then building wrap then T1-11. I may do it your way as long as it's waterproof since we get way more rain.

We will be staining the roughsawn T1-11 (plywood) with Chestnut stain after we put in batten's to cover all seems and nail lines (every 16" we will put in a roughsawn pine batten that I'll make from old trees on the land).

Thanks to others here on CP I put the windows in after the sheeting and used tar paper to cover everything and do the windows.  I looked up a LOT of window install stuff and tried to do mine close to a median on what I read.  No tin flashing above the windows but there is a 1 foot eve and low rainfall so I'm hopeful it will be ok.  Here in the desert (eastern Washington) that's also common.

For the west coast I see no reason why this wouldn't work except that I'd flash all windows and doors because of the rainfall in the area (that's just me mind you and I'm no expert).

So in your case I'd say sheeting (OSB), 15lbs felt on the walls and 30lbs felt on the roof, windows done as per the link I'll post which I got from Don I think.... as soon as I can find it...and then siding.

I chose the roughsawn T1-11 because of cost ($27.95 a sheet) and looks -- the board and batten look is so 1900's   It was the cheapest way to go but a word of caution:  in wet climates it may not be the best idea.  In a wet area I'd look to see what Cedar siding would run or perhaps one of those new lap products that HD sells??  Might be worth a look anyway.  Otherwise, if cost is a big issue then T1-11 will work fine if treated well.

[OlJarhead]

OlJarhead,  Cabin and land looks like a good match.....and progressing nicely. Did you buy the plans from John? I hope to start a small cabin soon...maybe a 16' x 28'.


Thanks,
Shawn

Yup   I bought the 'Whole Enchilada" plans and am very happy!  I've modified the build a bit and John (as well as many others here in the forums) has been a great help!  The 16x28 I'm confident would be an easy thing to do from these plans.

Things to consider:

1.  Go with the heavier floor!  I went with 2x6 floor joists and while that's ok for a cabin I kinda wish I'd taken the advice I was given and went with 2x8's.  For a 16x28 I might even go 2x10 -- but in WA if you want to build to code then you might have to go with 2x12 -- something to look into.

2.  Check span tables on your chosen floor joists, block them during the framing phase and try to reduce the cantilever (if going with code you'll probably have to go with no more then the depth of the joist so consider that when deciding on a foundation).

3.  Take your time, and know this:  How do you eat and Elephant?  One bite at a time!

Cheers
Erik

[OlJarhead]

I can't tell from the picture what is keeping the flashing "up". But I have installed a few of those style flashing's and they don't lay down real good until you get a few screws in them. Be sure to space the screws correctly, and to keep them center on the soft metal flange. Also I try to seal them under the flange, then apply a bead of sealant on the flange edge, especially on the steep side. Lexan, Geosel, and Through the Roof have worked well for me. The Geosel is top shelf sealant if you can find it.

Are you short a piece of metal on the eve, or does the end rake take care of that ?

In reverse order:  the Gable Flashing isn't installed yet.  I plan to install it last.

OK, the flashing is hiding the 'collar' type support which screws to the roof and holds the Chimney in place.  I think it also acts like a heat barrier of sorts but um uncertain about that.  I'll find a link to show one -- but basically it has a large clamp with an angled bracket that bolts to the clamp and can be adjusted to the pitch.  The bracket is screwed to the rafters/roof and provides a two inch hold off for the clamp (to keep the chimney 2 inches away from combustible surfaces).  The clamp is the kind which goes around the chimney and then turns up at each end so you can tighten a bolt through it to 'clamp' the pipe.  That piece of the clamp is about 1" deep and 6" tall making for an almost knife like edge that the rubber flashing has to go over.

I'm guessing that if I secure the top of the flashing and then pull the bottom down tightly that I might be able to get it to fit the way it's intended but I'm uncertain....I think it may not cover as much as I cut out of the roofing   I'm planning a visit to the stove guys to ask about it soon.