Good way to cut stud in wall without messing up sheetrock?

[NM_Shooter]

I am installing a hide-away ironing board in a wall at home. 

Unfortunately, the location that I am installing has a stud positioned off of the 16" center.  I'm going to have to cut that stud out. 

Any way to do this so that :

1)  When I cut the stud I don't screw up the wallboard on the back side?  I only have a standard skilsaw and a sawzall.  I have a jigsaw as well.

2)  Is there a means to build a header (this is a non load bearing wall) without screwing up the sheetrock on the face?  Not sure how I would cut that stud back without removing the sheetrock. 

Of course this stud spacing would have to be less than 16".   What a bunch of bozos.

[MountainDon]

Set the depth of cut on your SuperDuper Precision Laser Cutter to the depth of the stud. I hope you have Model SWC; it can sense and cut any screws or nails that secure the back side drywall to the stud portion to be removed. Make sure there are no pictures hanging on the wall on the other side. Mine got confused and severed those nails too the first time I used it.  

Other than that I don't think it's an easy task.  Bummer.


No desire to remodel the room on the other side?

[NM_Shooter]

You are a funny guy. 

Yeah, I think I just have to get dirty. 

[Squirl]

I've removed studs by circular sawing most of the way through, hand sawing the last little bit.  16" O/C leaves 32" to move a hand saw.  I guess it depends on nail spacing on the other side.  I did multiple sections to keep from having to pull to many nails at once.  This was with OSB though, not drywall.  If it is screwed maybe you could unscrew and simply patch/paint. I got really good at patching small holes in drywall with dried toothpaste, putty, and paint in college. Just don't tell the landlords  . Good luck, you are going to need it. 

[Redoverfarm]

A sawzall is my best friend.  You can cut the thickness and if you have a limber blade it can be inserted between the 2X and the drywall and cut any screws that might be present.  When you assemble the header and studs to close in the opening I would use long deck screws rather than nails to avoid further damage or pops.

[PEG688]

I am installing a hide-away ironing board in a wall at home. 

Unfortunately, the location that I am installing has a stud positioned off of the 16" center.  I'm going to have to cut that stud out. 

Any way to do this so that :

1)  When I cut the stud I don't screw up the wallboard on the back side?  I only have a standard skilsaw and a sawzall.  I have a jigsaw as well.

    

     A)   The first thing to check is are there any wires in either stud bay.    Either look at some photo's , if you took any before you SR -ed the walls ,  look for outlet and or switches in either stud bay  , or lastly cut a hole saw hole , 3 1/2" that allows you to reach into each stud bay and check for wires.   If your clear of wires


  B)    Plunge in with the skilsaw , top and bottom of the opening.  Then use a sheet rock saw or the sawsall to cut the S/R out of the way.

   C)   Once the S/R is out finish the stud cuts off with the sawsall , using it at a angle you should be able to just barely cut the paper on the back of the other side S/R back. Wiggle the cut off studs left and right and the screws and / or S/R nails will pull out , very seldom will the paper on the other room side tear , I'd say I get 40 to 50 screws / nails to pull out with the going away cut off stud.   

   D)   To create a "header" which really is backing to screw the ironing board to  you can cut 2 x4's that are 1 1/2" short of the stud you cut out, you need two for each stud bay , these can either go all the way to the floor , or they can be blocks that you screw in  to the studs  you should have room to reach into the bays to screw these blocks into place, Pre drill a over sized hole for the screw so the screw passes right thru the block into the existing studs.  You can do a very similar thing to the side backing blocks as well once the top and bottom are filled in.     




2)  Is there a means to build a header (this is a non load bearing wall) without screwing up the sheetrock on the face?  Not sure how I would cut that stud back without removing the sheetrock. 

Of course this stud spacing would have to be less than 16".   What a bunch of bozos.

Who was the bozo?   Was the thing marked well , did you verify the recess was set-up properly for this product? 

G/L PEG 

[NM_Shooter]

Thanks for the help!  I got it done with minimal damage to the backside sheetrock.  Still have a couple of punctures that I have to patch, but it is not bad at all.  The wiring took a bit longer to resolve, but all in all it went pretty well. 

I had a creative bunch of framers work on my house.  Actually it was two groups.  It was during a period when lots of building was going on, and the GC hired a young group of framers to do most of the work, and then an experienced group would come in a couple of times a week to fix things.  I have way more wood in my house than most folks.  Probably had a bigger scrap pile out front when it was being built too. 

Anyway... the board is installed, and the electrical roughed in to the cabinet.  Also rewired the closet lights since we didn't like the way they were controlled (that was my fault). 

Happy wife........