Anyone used a good brand of fake rock panel?

[AdironDoc]

I'm looking at putting up faux- river rock paneling behind my wood stove and see so many brands and prices out there. They seem to range in quality from poor to very realistic. Unfortunately, the brand I liked the most is modular and with the side pieces, ends up at 71 inches wide. The space between my windows is 72, without moldings. That could be a problem. I was hoping that anyone who's used a good brand of heat-rated faux stone could tell me the brand. It's hard to get a handle on realness and quality looking at a website. Thanks.

Doc

My stones will reach 7'6" to the log running across.




http://www.anticoelements.com/river-rock-panels/267-brook-river-rock-faux-panels-boulder-gray.html

[Redoverfarm]

Doc you could always lay your own Faux stone.  Not that hard and you can make whatever demensions you would need.

[rick91351]

Doc you could always lay your own Faux stone.  Not that hard and you can make whatever demensions you would need.

Several here in have done so with great results.  I did a wall in the old house in brick that was okay.  I think you would still need to go with fire proof sheet rock behind it or better some type of james hardi type cement board.  Check on code there.  Seen some where new was two .50 inch fire proof sheet rock layered?    But that might have been in a garage with apartment over the top I was looking at the other day at the lumber yard.... 

[AdironDoc]

I hadn't considered that option. The stones are fake but the cement I'd use is real? If it's not too hard, I wouldn't mind trying it. I was also wondering if it came down to using real cement, maybe just use real stones. The creek behind the house is full of 'em. Was more concerned about difficulty and overall weight with that option.

My other option is to buy the redi-boards, fireproof option, cut the edges on my table saw, then cobble together a cement or slate look edging. It could look odd that a rock sort of just cuts off at the border. Darn shame that with the fit-lock matching sides, I get less than an inch on each side of the windows. Only thing I was thinking was go without moldings on the windows of that wall.

I'd love to know more about the fake stones.

[rick91351]

Doc most stone work you see on buildings today are faux stones.  Here is some of John's handy work at Dogtrot at Hightop

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3613.740
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3613.760

If it does not take you to the right page look at page 38 and 39.

[AdironDoc]

Wow! That's a mighty impressive job, and, I do thank you much for the link. Looking at it, I'd figure John's a mason by trade., but I'm starting to think I'd be up for the challenge of it.

Seems that even with river rock being most common up here in the 'dacks', the dry stack look of ledgestone just looks real nice. Wonder if it would look out of place. Something gives me the feeling it's easier to work with and means less visible cement.

[rick91351]

Doc check out the 'rock' available at the 'local masonry center'.  Not just HD and Lowes.  I think you will be pleasantly surprised at your options.

[Redoverfarm]

No Doc I am not a professional mason.  Just something I picked up over the years.  It is not as difficult as it may seem.  The best part of using faux stone and that you do not need a foundation to support it.  You can use it on a plywood or durarock or similar concrete board.  In fact you can double the board for extra protection.  I generally add the board and then nail lathe wire, Parge with a mortar and then lay the stones to the parge coat.  If you are really serious I can give you step by step instructions.  If they don't work out you don't have to worry about paying me. He.He

Here is stone on a plywood substrate





This is stone on a block substrate.  But there is no difference in it's appearence





Here is the company that I use basicly because it is closeby and I can pick it up.  They will ship and there product is sold in Lowes Stores.  There are other companies that manufacture stone of this type.  A listing is on my Desk top so I will include it in a modfied post late.  I believe they also have a panelized stone veneer as well.  If you check out their "Products" you will see the traditional stone and the new "MSI Panels" in a variety of patterns.  If I can be of any help feel free.  

http://www.manufactured-rock.com/

This is a drystack I did at my house.  A lot of people confuse Drystack with ledge stone. Yes they are laid to appear not to have mortar joints but Drystack are normally larger sized stone where ledge stones are thinner and longer.

[NM_Shooter]

Do keep in mind that any material between your fireplace and the wall does not improve clearance issues if in contact with flammable surface (studs / sheetrock).  You have to have an air gap or you may be in violation. 

The faux stone may qualify as shield material, but in order for it to be a shield you still have to have that 1" vent gap or so.  If you place your stone directly on hardie board, and hardie board directly on studs, I believe that the clearance distance is now to the face of the stone, as that will conduct the heat directly back to the studs.  (waiting on Mtn Don to clarify this....)

[MountainDon]

correct  

1" minimum air space with open slot at the bottom and top for airflow. There are ceramic spacers available. Don't place screws into studs directly behind the stove; okay off to the side.

[rick91351]

correct  

1" minimum air space with open slot at the bottom and top for airflow. There are ceramic spacers available. Don't place screws into studs directly behind the stove; okay off to the side.

Don is that still required if you abide by the appliance's engineered clearance requirements? 

[MountainDon]

Don is that still required if you abide by the appliance's engineered clearance requirements?  

Let me answer that with some data provided with our VC Aspen wood stove.  They provide required clearances for non-protected and protected surfaces. With no extra heat shields on the stove itself:
Side clearance to a parallel non protected surface: 24"
Side clearance to a parallel protected* surface: 16"
They go on to list rear clearances, clearances for top chimney and rear chimney exits, clearances for corner (diagonal) installations and full info on chimney pipe clearances. They use distance measurements from the protruding edge of the top plate to the combustible surface.

*Where protected surface has the 1" air space behind it and a minimum of 50% of the bottom 1" is open and the top is fully open. If metal is used it has to be 24 gauge or heavier.

I believe any current EPA listed stove will have the same information available and I believe by law that info must be on a permanently attached plate on the rear of the stove. If it is a non listed stove then NFPA has recommended clearances for both protected and non protected surfaces.

http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/NFPA_Wall_Clearance_Reductions/

Vermont Castings has all their manuals with the info online. I imagine most other stove manufacturers would do the same.

[AdironDoc]

Thanks for the info, guys. Your points are well taken. I have no intention of reducing the stove manufacturer's minimum clearance requirements because of the materials I choose. The faux wall is for appearance only but I'd feel better knowing it's heat rated. Moreover, it's my understanding that double wall pipe can be placed at any distance 6" or greater from the wall. IMO, any less than that ends up looking a bit odd anyway.

[Don_P]

Fake stone is one option but real stone is available in many forms. The pallets of thin veneer stone (lick and stick is often the jobsite name) at many building suppliers is the real deal and can usually be put on at 2" thick and not a whole lot of weight, generally sedimentary. Luck stone, and I'm sure others, saw the backside of rocks off to make a lightweight version of large rock. And then there's the real thing, hard to believe we ever thought of a new and improved rock  .