14x36 in Northwest Arkansas

[jdhen]

The weather has been perfect lately and I've been able to frame and sheath the north porch.


I'm having cedar posts milled for the south porch and they should be ready later this week.  I also picked out my rafters for the gable and both shed roofs so framing should start on that early next week if the good weather continues.  I completed the let-in ledger today.  The loft beams should be in by the end of the week.

I finished cutting out the windows including the awning windows that service the loft space.

Those are not security cameras poking out of the roof but the supports for my tarp.  I have a neighbor that just built a garage/living quarters on his land and unfortunately his door was kicked in and all of his tools were stolen.  I'm sure I got cased but maybe the would be thieves thought they were being watched! 

[jdhen]

Everythings going a little slower than I'd hoped - but I'm realizing this is typical. I haven't gotten too the gable roof yet.  I'm still dodging the rain which seems to be every day!
Over the past 2 weeks I've added rafters to the north porch.

and covered it with a tarp

We placed the south porch/sunroom posts and added a built up 2x6 beam.

The 4x10 beams were set on the ledger and bolted to the studs- wow, were those heavy!  My wife and I managed to lift them into place without injuring ourselves.

and a temporary floor was placed- well, sort of a floor.

Today I added the supports for the ridge board and later this week we hope to start cutting rafters.  The 2x4  is not the ridge board- I was just experimenting.


I cut a mock up rafter and decided to go with this cut down of the rafter tails.  The real ones will overhang about 8-10 inches.  We'll use the h 2.5 clips to secure them to the top plate.

Rain in the forecast through thursday 

[bayview]

   Looks great!  You are really moving right along . . .

[jdhen]

Thanks, Bayview.  I'm still having fun 

[jdhen]

Got a few rafters in place yesterday. It was a rather cold and windy day so that put a bit of a damper on the fun aspect. I'd cut more rafters but we went slowly since we've never done any roof framing before.
My wife did a great job holding the rafters plumb while I nailed them to the ridgeboard

Getting them in place was fairly using the thrust block technique recommened in Carroll's Working Alone book.  The rafter just sat in place waiting to be nailed.

At least the house is now starting to take some shape and not just look like a box.


I had a guy stop last week wanting to know if I needed a bid on my flat roof.  He thought the awning windows were for scuppers. 

[Redoverfarm]

jdhen Toenailing is the common approach to securing the rafter to the plate.  On my cabin I cut 2X blocks the width of the bay between two rafters and nailed them to the plate (on the flat)on every other bay.  In addition to toenailing I attached the rafter to the 2X blocks.  Maybe just a little overkill but reduced the chance of splittling the bottom of the rafter when toenailing and made them a little more secure.  

[diyfrank]

I like the pictures of your thrust block technique for holding the rafter in place. Thanks for posting them.
I will likely me doing mine solo.

[ScottA]

Looks like the fun has begun. You're off to a good start. 

[poppy]

Jesse, nice to have the wife help out.  Wish I were so lucky.  It's solo for me.

Things are looking good. 

[Sassy]

Making good progress!

[Don_P]

 I like the thrust block technique, thanks for posting that  . My wife and I do the same thing as you two, she works the bottom and I work the top. She has the gun and I hold the top up until she gets her end nailed off where she wants it then I nail at the ridge. I also like to run a string on top of the ridge down the centerline from end to end. This lets me keep checking that we aren't putting a snake in it for any reason. Some diagonal 2x4's nailed under the rafters from plate to ridge help to rack brace the framing against a high wind until you get the sheathing on.

[jdhen]

Well, we made out goal of getting the rafters up before Sunday!  ( I have to work tomorrow)



Still have to add subfacia, barge rafters and plumb cut the tails before sheathing but we're happy!
I did decide to pre cut the let-ins on the end rafters for the lookouts.  I felt that it would be easier to use some sort of template to mark and transfer the cut outs on the plywood rather than climb the 12/12 pitch with my heavy worm drive saw to do it in place.  I think I will take Redoverfarm's advice and install the barge and lookouts preassembled.
Several have commented on the thrust block.  My wife and I were talking today and we can't imagine how much harder it would have been if we hadn't come across that one.  Trying to hold the rafter in place and turn it so it's plumb with the layout lines--impossible!  There are many other gems in John Carrolls book, Working Alone.  I can't recommend it enough.
Don- I did manage to get 2- 14 ft 2x4's at each end crossing at least 7 rafters each.  We also added several 1x4's to the other side.  Should that be enough? It feels very stable.
Now, I need to rest!

[Don_P]

I know that feels good. Yup you should be able to take some wind. I get nervous if just the braces on the poles are holding it all in rack. Until its sheathed its probably at its most tender stage. Looks like y'all are having this cold snap too, we're supposed to clear out and warm back up next week.

My way is definitely not for everyone but I install the lookouts a couple of inches long, chalk a line and trim them all to that in place straight line then install the subfascia. I use a lightweight sidewinder but its still not the safest move.

[jdhen]

We didn't get as much done as we'd hoped to this past week.  I was sick for a couple of days and when I wasn't sick it was raining.
We still got a couple of days of work in. 
We added blocking and cut most of the rafter tails to size.

Got the barge rafters and subfacia attached to the north porch and started adding some sheathing panels.  I forgot to purchase the  H clips so I could only do one section.


And we also added rafters to the south porch/sun room.

This is the scene that greeted me as I arrived early this morning.  Can't wait to wake to to that!  Our bedroom will be upstairs facing east.

The fall foliage has peaked and many of the trees are now shedding their leaves.  Still a little color around to enjoy.  There are a few maples up on the hill.  It's been beautiful fall.

I'm really looking forward to getting this thing dried in.  Colder weather's just around the corner.
I'll be taking delivery of the windows this week.  When I ordered them I thought I'd be further along.  I won't install them until the roof sheathing and underlayment is on but I was wondering if they can be installed without house wrap in place?  Seems to me I've seen photos of windows going in with just the tape flashing.  Is this acceptable or is it better to have the wrap on first?

[Redoverfarm]

Still making good progress even with the delays.  I think I would install the vapor barrier (house wrap or tar paper) before installing the windows and doors.

[MountainDon]

I was wondering if they can be installed without house wrap in place?  Seems to me I've seen photos of windows going in with just the tape flashing.  Is this acceptable or is it better to have the wrap on first?

I asked PEG more or less the same thing... asked him if one way was better than the other.  He said it can be done either way, sometimes one way makes more sense on a particular job, due to materials not coming when expected or weather or whatever.

Too bad you already cut the windows out. I papered our cabin first, then cut out installed the windows as I got them.


Here's a link to a Building Science article (PDF) on window installation and flashing before installing the building paper, just like you are asking about.

http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0407-installing-a-window-with-building-paper-on-osb-over-wood-frame-wall/view?searchterm=window%20flashing

The Building Science website has loads of good information.

[NM_Shooter]

Oh man, you are making me miss home.  That looks great!

I may have to bring one of my daughters in for a Razorback game, some BBQ, and to harass old friends!

[OlJarhead]

Very motivating!

Question:  Did you use 3 2x10x10' ridge beams?  If so, how did you nail them together?  Or did you?

I'm planning on working on the roof of my 14x24  this weekend and the blocking idea for the rafters looks great!

[poppy]

Nice pic. of "red sky in the morning; sailor take warning."

[MountainDon]

Very motivating!

Question:  Did you use 3 2x10x10' ridge beams? 

I used three sections of 2x10 ridge board with 2x6 rafters. I used a "scarf" joint positioned so a rafter pair was located over each joint.

[OlJarhead]

Very motivating!

Question:  Did you use 3 2x10x10' ridge beams? 

I used three sections of 2x10 ridge board with 2x6 rafters. I used a "scarf" joint positioned so a rafter pair was located over each joint.

Do you need 2x10's for a 2x6 rafter?  I was thinking 2x8 would work?

The scarf joint I assume is on edge?  45 degree angles cut so the boards fit like one?  Did you glue and nail them once up?

I'm thinking I can do two 2x8x12's or 2x10x12's joined in the middle to meet the 24' length.  This means I'll need a temp support at the end and the center (where there is no loft -- though I may put in a gang way there).

Gotta go look at the plans again to get my head wrapped around making the rafters.  My plan is to cut two, make sure they work and then use them as templates for the rest.

[MountainDon]

Actually you caught me in a mistake: I did use 2x8's for the ridge board, but that may depend on the pitch of the roof.  

Better image...



Remember to place the scarf joint so there is a rafter pair at the joint. I used 4 temporary supports for my 30+ foot ridge board.

I had two joints so had to waste a little to get them to line up with the rafters. I also allowed excess length at each outermost end and trimmed them to size later.

I also used a piece of scrap board as a scab patch until I cme to place the rafters at the joint.

[jdhen]

Oljarhead- I actually used 3 -2x12's and there was still a gap where the rafters aren't touching the ridge.  The plumb cut of a 2x10 rafter with 12/12 pitch is approximately 13 inches.  I left the gap at the top as everyone recommended.   Also I connected the ridges as MD describes using the scarf joint.  I predrilled the holes for the nails since it's very close to the end of each board and nailed them perpendicular to the cut.  The difficulty is keeping the scarf joint together as you nail.  It always wants to slide.  The second scarf joint in the illustration that MD posted would solve this problem. I found that predrilling through both boards and setting the nail in the first one so that you can line it up with the other helps.
I used 4 supports and positioned 2 of them directly under the 2 scarf joints so I didn't need to scab the ridge boards.  I miscalculated and didn't get the splices exactly at the joint but I used some metal plates to reinforce.  Interestingly, I have 2 books that suggest that the splices should go at a rafter pair and another that states that it should break between.  I guess both would work 
Good luck!

[jdhen]

Mountain Don- You mentioned that you wrapped and then cut out the windows.  When you cut the plywood did you remove the section of wrap that's over the window space?  From what I've been reading there's some sort of inverted wineglass cut that allows you to wrap the flaps into the window space around the jambs and sill.  Is this what you did?
Also,  would you mind going over some of the finer points of wrapping the house. Like you I plan to use felt and I'd like to get it as tight and smooth as you did!  I assume you just start at the bottom and wrap but do you go as far as you can with the whole, or is it better to precut a certain length?  It looked like you overlapped every corner.  Anyway, any pointers would be appreciated!

[MountainDon]

I precut the #15 felt to length inside the cabin on the floor. For the first 30 foot side I cut it just under 30 feet feet long. I then took the roll outside. Karen assisted on this part as it would be difficult to impossible alone.   I lined up the lower edge near one corner and drove a plastic cap nail in near the upper edge; just that one nail to start. Then we rolled it out for about 12 to 15 feet and lined up the lower edge again and secured it with another nail. We pulled the felt as taught as we could before nailing. Then we rolled it out to the corner and I went back securing it with plastic cap nails every 24 inches. Most of the nails hit the studs. Then we repeated up the wall. The higher levels were a little tricky as we had to move ladders along.

When I did the subsequent walls I cut the lengths long and wrapped the corners.

As mentioned I wrapped the building before cutting out the windows in the OSB. I didn't have the windows on hand when I erected the walls and to me it was more important to wrap the walls. I cut the windows out with a reciprocating saw. I did not worry about trying to do an x-cut and wrapping the felt inside. I can't see how that would make any difference to the finished product. The window has silicone sealant under the top and side flanges as well as having the self adhesive flashing installed. I did follow the Grace Vycor flashing instructions.

That is except for where I messed up on two windows. I forgot to place the top flap of felt over the upper flange of the window and then flashing the top. The lap is under the top flange.   However, with the large overhang and the window tops way up there I don't believe any driven rain that may occur will ever get in there to cause a problem. The self adhesive lashing stuck very well anyhow.

The felt will wrinkle and bubble if it gets wet. The moisture makes it expand. It looks messy but that is fine. When it dries out the felt goes flat again.

It rained many times after the wall and roof felt was installed and before the interior was finished. No water came through even though some of the rain was pushed by a lot of wind.

I used some 1 inch and some 1 1/4 inch button cap nails. The 1 inch were long enough to do the job but were a pain to hold in place to nail. The longer ones were easier to hold.

There were a few spots where we had to overlap the ends as one roll ran out an we started a new one. We overlapped them by a good foot or two and used more nails along the overlap.