plumbing conundrum

[dug]

I am attempting to connect a 1 & 1/2 inch sink vent pipe into the toilet vent stack, like this-



Even in an ideal situation I'm not quite understanding how you thread a horizontal vent pipe through wall studs. I'm guessing oversized holes drilled closer to the wall side?     I've seen it done so I know it must be possible.

In this particular case there is a wall close to either side. I thought about cutting two pieces and splicing in the middle but the pieces can only be 14 1/2 inches in order to fit between the studs and I need almost 4 ft. total. Two splices? Or is my thick skull overlooking an obvious solution?

[astidham]

dug,
if I am understanding the question right, you would need to notch the stud in the center all the way to the hole, and just put a plate on the face of the stud.

[dug]

It's a bearing wall so I can't notch the 2 inches I need. I'll have to look it up (again) but I think I am only allowed to bore holes up to 40% of the stud width so 2 inches seems pretty much the limit.

[dug]

The short piece of pipe in the top right is not connected, I just put it there to make sure the hole was lined up right.

[MountainDon]

Then I believe you will have to double up the studs and notch the pipes into the extra set inside the wall. And I think it's 25% maximum; 40% is for interior non bearing walls. That's how we built the walls for the bathroom walls in our suburban home

Chapter 6 of the IRC.

Load bearing wall: notch max 25%, hole bored through stud, 40% of stud depth.
Figure R602.6(1)

[astidham]

what if you notched the stud, and hole sawed the hole in (2) 2xs ~12" long, ran your pipe through them, installed the pipe and cleat one on each side of the notched stud?
I think that would hold the load.

[Don_P]

Only if the "patch" stud is full height. Multiple pipe pieces and couplings is the way it is typically done.

[dug]

Thanks everyone. Holes are already drilled so I will do two splices.

[dug]

Conundrum #1 is dealt with. On to another.

I was hoping to locate my shower drain in the center of a 36 inch square space giving me the option to either buy a pre-built shower stall or pan or just build my own. Of course a joist located dead center in the intended space thwarted my plans.

So now I have to offset it by at least 3 inches which I suppose means I will be building a tiled shower.

My question is: If you are not able to locate a shower drain in the center, is there a preferred alternative? I have seen some near a corner.

[dug]

I am leaning towards putting the drain near a corner or centered on the wall with the fixtures but centered about 6 or 8 inches from the edge. Basically directly under the shower head.

I have no idea what complications may be involved with either of these options as far as building a shower pan. I am way out of my league, HELP!

[ScottA]

Dug PVC will bend. If your holes are close enough to the edge you can force it in by bending the pipe. Hammer it over to the next hole and pull it into position and hammer it in again. If your holes are in the center of the board you'll have to cut short pieces and use couplings.

[metolent]

cut the offending joist, sister up the two closest joists w/additional joists, build header(s) and install with hangers between the two now-sistered joists?  

I had to do the above for the exact same reason.  I used double I-joist hangers (mine are 11 7/8" TJIs) for the header (with a 2x6 glued between and plywood laminated on the outside of the I-joist header and a single I-joist hanger off that for the cut joist), although I only needed one header since the other side of the cut joist was already supported on the mid-span load bearing pony wall in the crawlspace (just had to shorten the blocking on both ends between joists).  Otherwise, it would have been two headers. If you have I-joists, the manufacturer should have a nifty spec sheet that details the composition of the doubled-joists.  I followed that.  You can kind of see it here, although the second pic was before I finished as I don't see the hanger on the cut joist (it's there now as it was just inspected):




Alternatively, I have a second shower pan (38") that has the hole in the corner like you mentioned, so they do exist.  So in my case if I had preferred to reframe the wall between the shower and closet/duct chase, I could have just used the 38" shower pan and the hole would have fell between the existing joists. However, I elected to keep the wall the same since I needed to maximize the adjacent space for duct work running up to the loft.  If you were close, I'd just give it to you.... 

[ScottA]

Conundrum #1 is dealt with. On to another.

I was hoping to locate my shower drain in the center of a 36 inch square space giving me the option to either buy a pre-built shower stall or pan or just build my own. Of course a joist located dead center in the intended space thwarted my plans.

So now I have to offset it by at least 3 inches which I suppose means I will be building a tiled shower.

My question is: If you are not able to locate a shower drain in the center, is there a preferred alternative? I have seen some near a corner.

You want the drain as close to center as possible. Set the drain so it's sitting on the floor with the pipe going down through a hole. It should be up about 2" off the floor if you did it right. Next pour concrete up to the lip of the drain body, about 1", not the grate. Use sand mix or floor mix without rocks. Mix it pretty dry so it's kinda crumbly then pack it into place with a float. Install the pan and clamp it into the drain body. Cut out a hole where the pipe is. Install the threaded grate piece.  Repeat concrete up to the top of the grate less the tile and grout thickness. Slope this concrete layer from the walls to the drain about 1/4" per foot. Lay tile.

Basically you will have a shower pan sandwiched between 2 layers of concrete. Hope this helps. What you are trying to do is pretty tricky you may want to hire a pro.

[MountainDon]

2" offset any help?

http://www.ipscorp.com/watertite/drains/offsetshower

[dug]

Dug PVC will bend. If your holes are close enough to the edge you can force it in by bending the pipe. Hammer it over to the next hole and pull it into position and hammer it in again. If your holes are in the center of the board you'll have to cut short pieces and use couplings.

I was thinking that might be the case, I'll drill closer to the edge on the next ones. I think you are allowed to go as close as 5/8's. Thanks!

Metolent- I was afraid someone might suggest that.  Not a big deal I guess but just more to do, another trip into town for lumber.   
My framing is standard lumber. Would I have to double the two joists where the headers attach?

You want the drain as close to center as possible

Sounds as if it would be much easier to do this way, would 3 inches off center be too much? The shower will be about 34 in. square.  If not I could avoid cutting out the joist
.

What you are trying to do is pretty tricky you may want to hire a pro.

You are probably right. I'm not exactly itching to tackle this.

2" offset any help

Might be actually. Possibly I could just notch the top of the joist a little and get away with it, I'm going out now to see if that may be an option.

Thanks for all the help everyone!

[TheWire]

You might want to think about a 32" or 38" shower.  That would likely shift the drain away from the joist.  I put a 32" corner shower in and its more than adequate for 6'2" 190 lb. me.  Not huge but it works.  Here is the shower I used.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3077134&CAWELAID=158453207

[j1mb0b]

Hello, I'm new here and am just lurking thru the posts!
that said, I have picked up some know how from many hours of video instruction
here is a link to HELP solve typical shower drain problem hope it helps those with the same problems!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxQoadtOxT8