Building procedures

[Mudball]

I just started digging a hole for our basement. Could someone tell me what next steps I need to keep in mind or be planning for while digging the basement hole ?
Or does someone know of a procedure check list of things to do when building a basement ?
Thanks

[jonsey/downunder]

Hi Mudball,
Welcome aboard mate. Glenn is our resident specialist on digging holes.   He is based in California, so won't be on deck for an hour or two. You may like to check out his underground house while you are waiting for him to get on the job.
Look at the "underground cabin update" post.
jonesy.

[glenn kangiser]

Hi Mudball,

That's how we do it around here -my mate, Jonesy works nights down under in Australia- I work days after I finally roll out of bed.

I've dug a few holes in my day, from water wells to my underground cabin.

Are you digging under an existing structure or for new construction- is a permit a concern - is your ground stable or prone to caving   First concern must be safety -It won't do you a bit of good if it falls in on you.

[Mudball]

First thank you both for your help. Second that is a really neat underground cabin.
This is new construction.
A permit is not a concern.
The ground is very stable. The very back of the "basement house" seems to have a lot more soft top soil rather than toward the front which is much more rocky with chert type dirt(hard) but was planning on maybe digging the footer down a little deeper in the back ??
I will take pictures of what Ive done so far if it will help. I need to take some any way.

[glenn kangiser]

Are you looking at wood shoring or concrete?  ICF blocks make a good fast way of pouring concrete walls and hold rebar in place etc.  Cheap or money no object

Thanks for the compliment on the cabin.  It's crude but effective.  The plans for wood shoring methods are in Mike Oehler's $50 and Up Underground House" book.  If you get serious about it I recommend his videos as well.  He doesn't mention it but if you span 8' on the walls 2x material is necessary to prevent bowing in.

As always - our advice is not professional.  We are just a free non-liability assuming think tank

Re-reading your last post - is your entire house going to be underground also or are you building a house above the basement.  Plans or going from scratch?  Hilly or level?  Temps and rainfall?

[Mudball]

My goal is to build a basement house(cinder block). It will be aprox. 3/4 of the way buried with one end exposed to the view of the river.
I considered ICF but was concerned with messing up.
We have some plans drawn out for the floor plan.
I will try to show some pictures.
Yes...CHEAP...Im trying to do most all the work myself.
Thanks

[glenn kangiser]

Be sure that your house does not become a dam for water coming downhill.  Consider French drains for possible problem areas.  Oehler's designs use an uphill patio to get light in and a back way out.  An upper road, path etc can also help divert water around the house.  Gables can be used even if underground (earth covered roof) to divert water around openings such as doors or windows.  Are you going earth covered roof or conventional

ICF is pretty easy and fast if done right- lots of online info.  Not especially cheap.

[Mudball]

Conventional gabled roof.
We are as low as we can just about go. Or we are as low as we want to go considering the height of the 100 year flood plane.
I have plans for all water diversions...yes very important.
My goal is to get footer and 12" block laid that will be backfilled against with washed gravel backfill. Then throughout the rest of the summer the plan was to give the blocks many thinned coats of sealer and then do some more next summer before backfilling with the washed gravel.
This first picture shows the view looking from back of the house out toward the river.

https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/Pineyriverbuck/Picture024.jpg

This picture is from the front looking toward the back of the house.

https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/Pineyriverbuck/Picture022.jpg

I hope you can see the building site in this picture. If you follow the far right hand plowed row then it leads you almost to the left hand side of the house site.

https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/Pineyriverbuck/Picture020.jpg

Well I have to get back out there and get some more dirt moved. We are expecting rain tomorrow and possibly Tues.
Just trying to plan ahead for anything that I need to consider while digging this hole.

Thanks

[jonsey/downunder]

Hi Mudball,
Looks like you have things pretty much under control. Just a couple of things you may have thought of already though. If you can pour the floor and footings together, less joints you have to worry about the better. You also have a good surface to work on. Pay particular attention to the bottom joint, this is where you will have the most  problems with water entry. It may be worth bagging the block joints, this is just slurry of fine sand and cement rubbed in with an old sack or something similar. This will fill any holes and give a good surface for the sealer. Wear gloves for this; you don't want to end up with cement poisoning. A mixture of butter and sugar rubbed into the hands is good for this if it does occur. Make sure the is no lip on the bottom, if you get water sitting there you will have problems. Plenty of working room at the back is always good if possible.
Hope this is of some use to you.
jonesy.

[Mudball]

Thanks for the advice jonseyhay. I believe I'll be contracting the footer and slab work out to someone.
I thought I remember reading somewhere that a floating slab is better due to the fluctuation in temperatures but I'm not sure.
I honestly didn't consider about where the trucks would back in at, but that problem will be alright when the time comes.
Any more ideas
Thanks

[jonsey/downunder]

Mudball,
Have a look here
http://www.solar.org/solar/location

This will give you a good idea of a floating slab. You may also be able to use a waffle pod similar to mine, using recycled tires as the pods. If you do a search on waffle pods you will come up with a few site that give a good idea of how they work.
jonesy

[Mudball]

Thanks again. Thats a good site for my mental picture
I would like to ask the question on building the walls. If I go with block and seal ect...then would it be best to fill blocks with concrete or fill with insulation ?
Most every site I've researched and read highly suggest to insulate the outside walls with rigid foam board.
Any thoughts ?

[jonsey/downunder]

Hi again Mudball,
I can't really answer that one for you; one of the others in your neck of the woods would be of more use to you.
If I were building with blocks over here, all the joints would be mortar. The exposed joints pointed and the ones at the back bagged. The blocks would usually be filled with concrete where the steel rods are, with a bondbeam every 4'. Also under window openings and over the top of doors. The back would be sealed and a drainage trench used to carry any water away. We don't usually have to worry about insulating as we don't have the frost depth you guys have. I am sure one of the others will give you good advice on your situation.
jonesy.

[John Raabe]

If you will have heated living space below grade in a cold climate then you would want to insulated the walls and perhaps the edges of the slab floor. In my NW climate 2" of Dow blueboard on the outside of the concrete and 2" under the slab for 24" all around the perimeter is the general rule for living space.

If you just want a storage and washer dryer type basement you don't need to insulate the walls. It will be moderated by the soil temp.

Do make sure you have dealt with drainage of water and have a good waterproof coating on the outside. That (leaking walls and floors) is the major complaint of failed basements.

[Mudball]

Thank you both for the advise.
Jonseyhay I need to go talk to one of my neighbors because I heard that he works with concrete foundations. I'll find out.
John Raabe I was thinking of doing just that with the foam board. I was thinking of going with the plastic on the ground and then a 2 to 4" layer of sand and then foam board before pouring the concrete slab. I read somewhere that they make concrete with insulating factors in the concrete as well but I'm not sure if its available from our local plants or how expensive it is.
After reading these replies again it makes me wonder if we should consider making the opening end side of the basement house by framing it in with wood and the 3 other sides concrete blocks ?

[Daddymem]

You could do both...step the foundation down to a half or quarter wall on the open side and have a step or two up from the basement finished grade; you just have to make sure you can direct rainwater away from the basement.

[Mudball]

Thanks Daddymem. Thats a good idea. I will definitely keep that in mind. I will see better when I get the hole completely dug out and down to grade.
Thanks