We've Taken the Plunge

[stricsm]

We bought John's Little House plans a couple of years ago intending to find river property to construct a weekend getaway.  In the process of looking for property, we found a lot with a cabin already on it and purchased it last week.  There are several issues with the cabin that I need advice on.

I'll take them one at a time since it will probably take the better part of a year to get the place in shape.  The biggest problem is the previous owner built a room under the covered deck.  He covered the deck flooring with tar paper and outdoor carpet and of course water is flowing into the living space below during heavy rains.  We want to close the deck in with windows - this room overlooks the river.  The roof over the deck is a lower gable than the main roof and is attached to the cabin.  Additionally it is supported by 4"X4" posts (2 side, 2 corner, and one middle).  The roof structure itself sits on double 2"X10" beams.  I would like to keep the space as open as possible and use single hung vinyl windows.  I intend to frame in openings up to the beams without headers since the wall won't carry a load (unless you advise otherwise).  I've been advised at least by one sales rep that I should allow approx. 1 ft between window units but don't know if this is universal or just for their windows.  Any advice the experts can provide would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Mark

[hobbiest]

If you could include some photos, that would be helpful.  I read this post a couple of times, and don't quite understand what you are asking.  If it is a matter of weatherizing the room below, then you will need to basically build a roof over it, no less than 1/4" slope in 4 feet, and cover it with Bituthene, or some other kind of waterproof membrane.  Then sleeper joists can be installed on top of the deck, tapered to fit, and decking proceed as usual.  If you want to enclose the deck above, (I think that's the project here) then frame in walls between the corner posts.  Single top plate is fine, as is 24" stud spacing.  If you are going with enough windows on it, you could even take a timber frame approach, and just use 4x4s instead of studs between the windows.  I personally can't understand why the window company would say that you have to have 1' between windows...dosn't make much sense to me.  Framing without headers shouldn't be a problem since it is built as a post supported porch, but it may be cheap insurence on the load bearing walls.  Generally (for reference) load bearing walls in exterior are any walls that have the ends of rafters on them.  Gable ends usually are non-bearing.

[stricsm]

Thanks hobbiest.  The porch/deck has a roof already which is supported by 4X4 posts.  I'm just looking to close in the area between the posts.  A double header (beam) already sits on top of the posts that is why I assumed that headers over the windows weren't necessary.  I'll take some pictures to make sure I don't screw this up.  Thanks for the advice.

[Daddymem]

Would this be of any assistance for your situation?
http://www.jshow.com/y2k/listings/35.html

[stricsm]

Daddymem, that would work, but the wife wants to be able to open the room up to let outside air in.  I'll study it some.  I've got some old double hung window panes in the garage that need to be used.  I could probably use fixed glass at the bottom and add the window panes at the top - placing the hinges so that the window panes swing upwards with screens on the outside.  The lower part would be solid fixed glass.  This would save me ~$1000.00 - which is good.  Thanks for the idea - I think I'll order the plan.

[stricsm]

John, you owe Daddymem a commission.  I ordered the sunroom plans today.  I'll post pictures under a new topic - maybe you guys/gals can keep me out of trouble during planning.  Thanks.

[jraabe]

Thanks Daddyguy!  

What many folks have done is use the details in the Sunroom Greenhouse plans for the stopped in (fixed) glass and then have one or more 6' sliding glass doors (with the same glass panel width) for opening up and turning into more of a screen porch for summer.

[Bart_Cubbins]

Here are a couple photos of a cabin using the patio door glass...




They used a different technique than John's. They cut a rabbet along the outside edge of the surrounding timbers and set the glass between the posts, using some quarter-round to hold it in place. Doing it that way would make it more difficult to waterproof though. You can see how the rabbet was cut in this high-res photo...

http://www.pbase.com/pclearwa/image/29424434/original

For anyone interested, more photos of this cabin's construction are here... http://www.pbase.com/pclearwa/construction&page=all

[stricsm]

For the sunroom kit, will glass from sliding doors work?  I've found several with double glass at a local salvage yard.  Do you have to remove the glass from the metal frame or mount it with the frame and then trim over it?  Thanks.

[glenn-k]

Salvage glass doors have the added advantage of being tempered- yes, it works great - I get tons of it free and use it in my greenhouse and cabin - don't try to cut it - it will just shatter into a million pieces.

Remove or not probably depends on  the quality of the frame and what you want to do. I've used both ways but usually use the glass only and build a wood frame.  Leaking dual pane windows can be separated with a razor knife then the windows cleaned and used singly or build a frame as Charlie Wing instructed and make your own dual frame.  Short form - seal the inside glass tight - silicone - etc.- let the outside one breathe to prevent condensation..

[greg sharp]

 8)in you quandry surrounding your door opening you seem to have neglected the elegant solution of the"dutch-door" opening by or closing by halves when aerating your space...you ca re-enginner french-light doors or custom build any permutation of two differing selected doors to achieve something very unique!!!!

[jraabe]

Yes, the sunroom and skylight glazing plans are designed for standard units from tempered sliding patio doors. These come in three standard widths. In most cases you will remove the glass from the frames.

http://www.jshow.com/y2k/listings/35.html

[stricsm]

We've finished one wall of our sunroom using John's plans (modified slightly) - the photos are hopefully shown below.  Thanks for all of the advice we received - everything has gone smoothly because of your help.  We hope to have the other two walls completed by end of Jan if the weather cooperates.  

[glenn-k]

Nice Job, Stricsm-- do you have a ballpark figure on the glass pricing-  I've gotten most of mine free, however the glass man here says new is expensive.

[stricsm]

When I've had to purchase it, I've paid $20 per panel from the local Habitat for Humanity store.  Some of these were commercial panels that had never been installed.  I advertised in my work newspaper and got 7 of the 13 panels free.