Wall Framing

Started by youngins, June 24, 2007, 11:52:06 AM

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youngins

Hello,

Getting ready to frame North wall (144") which has as 24" wide door and a Single 3648 window.



I am trying to draw on plates where trimmer studs for the door and windows should sit. I know I want the door approximately just after the second king stud (16 o/c in from first) and the window close to the other side of the door.

My plan is to only have one piece of 4x8 sheathing on each wall. For this wall it would be on the opposite side of the door.

I came up with something like:


Bottom plate:
[X]<14.5">[X][T][D=27"][T][X][X][T][C]<4.5">[C]<14.5">[C] <14.5>[C][T][X]<14.5>[X]

Legend:
X = King (width=1.5")
T = Trimmer (width=1.5")
C = Cripple (width=1.5")
H = header (Number beside H indicates width)
D = Door Opening (Number beside indicates width)
<> = Plate (Number inside indicates width)

Any modifications/suggestions?
"A spoonfull of sugar helps the medicine go down.."

John_C

With the window that close to the door lay out how you are going to do the trim.  Will the door trim and window trim meet?  Will there be a sliver of wall that will be difficult to paint/finish?

Most people would like the light switch (if there is power) to be on the right side of the door.  How will you mount an elec. box?


scottb

That narrow wall by the door, same as a typical garage, needs shear wall design. You do not have to live in earthquake region or high wind area to need a solid wall.  

youngins

John- Good point about the wall switch - I just might add a 3 inch section between door and window:
[X]<14.5">[X][T][D=27"][T][X]<3.0">[X][T][C]<4.5">[C]<14.5">[C] <14.5>[C][T][X]<14.5>[X] ......

Scott:
I appreciate your response.

My understanding is that one 4x8 section of sheathed wall meets IRC wall bracing requirements for every 25 feet of wall. My sheathed section is on the west side (not in calculations above) of the front wall and will probably be more like 4x6'3".

Alternative wall bracing (IE garages) is allowed by IRC using certain types of anchors bolted in concrete or even the Simpson strong wall. I'm not using concrete foundation - and the Strong wall only comes in certain heights. I understand the IRC also has a section about continuously sheathed structures.

Since this structure is under 120 square feet, I am exempt from having to strictly comply with the IRC.

However, making sure it does not blow apart is important to me - so I am always open to ideas about making it stronger/safe.

Thanks again

Chris
"A spoonfull of sugar helps the medicine go down.."

PEG688

Your understanding is wrong Chris , they want a  BWP or a ABWP on[highlight] each corner[/highlight] , and additional BWP every 25' , your lil play house will be fine just as you drew it , maybe a lil more room for a light swt. IF your going to have true wiring and lighting.

 Your not going to use that lil place for a hurican/ twister hide out are you ?? :o :o  ;D ;D
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


John Raabe

#5
One code requirement you might want to consider following is that of a window close to a door.

Here is my code note: Tempered glass needed <2' from door, <5' from tub or shower pan, bottom of glass <18" from floor.

Wouldn't want an angry slam of the door to cause someone to get cut up!  :P
None of us are as smart as all of us.

youngins

Good point John!

You know as well as I kids will get to chasing each other!

Thanks
"A spoonfull of sugar helps the medicine go down.."

builderboy

So controlling our tempers could eliminate the need for tempered glass - in theory of course. Wouldn't want to mess with code now would we.

JRR

#8
This discussion, for some reason, has reminded me of something I recently took notice of concerning German traffic laws:  

In Germany, automobile locks are to be used only to prevent car theft, or loss of items from your parked car ... not to protect your person.  By law, you do not lock the doors while driving ... if you should have an accident, rescue workers are to be able to quickly extract you from the vehicle without having to deal with locked doors.  Cars that you rent or buy will not have automatic door locks that engage once the car reaches a certain speed.

A curious difference of "concerns" in our two countries.

(... welcome to thread drift.)


outhouse

It seems like you might be visualizing centrally located double french or sliding glass doors. You might even be able to frame in tall narrow lights(fixed window) on either side of the french doors and eliminate the need for a window on that wall. With such a small structure, the extra cost to frame a big opening will probably be worth it.

youngins

Sliding glass door would be a safety issue with kids.

A French door is a great idea.   I wonder if they make one with a 60" height ????
"A spoonfull of sugar helps the medicine go down.."

youngins

#11
Basically, I would need a French door made for dwarfs - any suggestions?
"A spoonfull of sugar helps the medicine go down.."

outhouse

You might be able to find french doors that lend themselves to be chopped.

Or, you could try your hand at making a set. You could save a lot just buying glass and wood. Compare lumber and doors next time you're at a home improvement store. Regular 2x lumber looks pretty close in thickness. Many use Douglas Fir because it is light and resists warpage.

PEG688

Quote

Basically, I would need a French door made for dwarfs - any suggestions?



Make the doors yourself , use plexiglass for the windows. It's not that hard , and ya get to buy  a few more tools  8-)
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


PEG688

You beat me to it  >:( By a minute :'( ;D ;D ;D
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .