framing question for end wall

[MikeT]

I met with my structural engineer the other day to further discuss design modifications I am contemplating.

Because the Victoria's Cottage plans I am building from have a window on the end wall (above the great room) and because I am building in a high wind area, my engineer wants me to build that wall using balloon frame methods and 6x6 and 4x6 posts holding headers at the gable peak and for the main level windows.

My question concerns how best to frame this.  Should I frame it on the floor and then raise it?  Should I partially frame it and then raise it and then make any adjustments?  Or should I build it in place?

If this post should go in the general section, I am happy to re-post there.

Thanks,
mt

[MikeT]

I think I answered my own question.  With the help of some other, more capable folks, I will build the one balloon framed wall in place after all the other walls have been plated, erected, and sheathed.  

mt

[glenn kangiser]

Good to know you figured it out.  I didn't have an answer.

When other methods don't work, Mike Oehler recommends sleeping on it when you come to a hard part -- work on something else for a bit and the answer will eventually come to you.  Like a computer, your mind will assign it as a background task.

[John Raabe]

While I am not an expert framer, I expect there could be several satisfactory ways to frame the end wall. The primary requirement is to have solid bearing for the ridge beam all the way through the headers and floor system to the foundation. While the sheathing does a good job of tying all the posts, blocking and headers together into a braced frame, your engineer may want some additional metal plates or straps to provide extra rigidity against wind loads.

[PEG688]

 I haven't chimed in as there is some risk and tools like wall jacks that you would more than likely  ( MTL) need , unless you had a lot of people to help raise the wall.

What I've done in the past is "loft" the wall on the floor then you can accuratly cut all the parts , frame the wall then stand it up.

The problem is the wall jacks are made / designed for flat topped walls , with the wall lofted you have to jack off of the sloped roof pitch , also the walls get tall fast so some of the jacking have to be done off ladders , so I would not recommend this to a green DIY crew. One slip one mistake and it all comes down , MTL , on some one  

 Here's a 18' wide 8 in 12 pitch one we did a last year,

 

Same pitch just the other end of the place with a raised living room floor .




What you maybe should do is loft it on the floor so all your parts are easier to cut / measure then assemble it one piece at a time .


 Again  this thread like the How do I set truss's thread , your talking about a some what complicated thing to explain , lots of steps and missing one step does put a person in some danger either from a fall or collapse  so be careful eh

G/L PEG

[MikeT]

Thanks to all of you who chimed in.  I spoke with my builder-mentor whom I have hired on an as-needed basis on this project so I do not get into trouble.  He was the one who recommended that I do all the other walls first, then he and his crew would come and help me with the final wall.  That way they can set up a scaffold, then in the same building cycle help get that 28' glulam up and in place.  He is a terrific guy and has hardly charged me for anything as yet-- a bit of time for some excavation and time for him and his crew when the concrete trucks came for a few pours.  To date he has loaned me forms for my foundation, a rebar bender/cutter, and two wall jacks in addition to coming over occasionally and looking at what I have done and told me what the local inspector usually wants to see--all this for a few bottles of scotch.

[glenn kangiser]

That's the way to do it, Mike.  Networking with friends always works to the benefit of both -- even if you just like Scotch.

[MikeT]

When I asked him what his favorite Scotch was, he said, "whatever is in my hand."  You gotta love that flexibility.

mt