raising my subfloor

Mo · January 29, 2011, 12:04:56 PM

I think I am over thinking this by a million so I thought I would ask for mental help.

When we started building we built to add radiant floor heat. Well years later we have decided to just put in radiators in rooms to keep the cabin from freezing to the bone< it was -3 last week when we arrived> but my prodicament is I have an extra 1 1/4" between the subfloor and wall bottoms because of the extra 2x6. What would be the best way to bring the sub floor up? We have advantech down as subfloor.

Alan Gage · January 29, 2011, 12:35:36 PM

What about just covering the gap with a baseboard and forgetting it's even there?

Alan

January 29, 2011, 12:45:22 PM

That's what I would do... put down your finish flooring of choice and then do a nice baseboard trim. You will have plenty of nailing surface for this trim!

Are all the interior doors installed? Cabinets and casework? That could be an issue if the doors are cut for the taller floor level. Also the counter tops will be higher than standard issue, but neither of these seem to warrant putting down two more layers of 3/4" subfloor. Usually the doors and casework are not done until after the final subfloor is in.

MountainDon · January 29, 2011, 12:50:44 PM

I would leave it as is myself, I think. When you do the trim cut pieces of scrap wood to block the bottom of the trim out (equal thickness of the sheetrock or whatever is there) every place you nail the bottom edge of the baseboard.

Mo · January 29, 2011, 04:28:56 PM

Well that was my first thought but my doors are installed, how would I adjust for the extra 3/4" from the floor to the door base? Is the transition to deep?

January 29, 2011, 04:34:20 PM

What costs more, new interior doors or two layers of OSB over the entire floor?

You could try those adjustable, vinyl/metal door sweeps. U-shaped they fit over the door bottom. Not sure that they would cover the needed distance though. I'd be tripping over anything placed on the floor in the doorway.

Mo · January 29, 2011, 04:54:13 PM

Rewind on the brain these are the same thoughts that I have went over for months now.

It wasn't the price of the doors that bothered my husband it was residing after replacing the flashing and then drywalling again.

I do have a big pile, 90+-, of 8" by 16' 1" thick poplar that cost me about $3.50 each board. Would poplar be a good choice for the filler or would it be a waste of good wood?

JRR · January 29, 2011, 06:20:04 PM

It would definitely be a different look, but how's about installing 5/4" decking .. using plyable poly sealant as a caulking seam-sealant? I think decking can be obtained without the pre-treatment. Might be a bit too "cabin-ey"!

Cowboy Billy · February 03, 2011, 02:43:47 PM

Two years ago I put a 12x20 room on our 26' travel trailer. I put a 1.5 inch spruce deck on 8"x8"x20' spruce beams.

Once the walls were up I put down 1" blue dow board insulation with foil on one side. Then topped it 3/4 tongue and groove osb. even though its open to the wind it still stays warm in -6f weather. And all the layers makes it quiet dampening any sound walking across it.

We painted the floor with gray floor paint. And with the old Round Oak parlor stove we have to leave the windows cracked until the outside temps are down to 10f

Billy

February 03, 2011, 04:13:55 PM

Quote from: Mo on January 29, 2011, 04:54:13 PM
Rewind on the brain these are the same thoughts that I have went over for months now.

It wasn't the price of the doors that bothered my husband it was residing after replacing the flashing and then drywalling again.

How about those little doohickeys that attach to the bottom of the door and have a little rubber flap to block drafts. I was thinking they made height adjustable ones. Put one on the bottom of every door. It might look a little goofy but maybe not.

Alan

rdzone · February 04, 2011, 10:03:26 AM

Don't know if it would be cost effective or not or if you are road accessible, since you are already set up as if you were going to put down radiant you could always have gypcrete poured without the tubing installed and call it good, plus the floor would be nice and level. Just another option.

Mo · February 08, 2011, 11:55:30 PM

Thanks for the replys. I hope this will work,

I think if I cut 2x4's to 1" x4's and put them down with 12 inches in between nailed across the joists, cut 1" dow board to 12 inches wide place in between the 1x4's then a layer of 15lb felt then the hardwood flooring nailed into the 1x4's. That should bring me up to the right level.

I will use gypcrete and concrete board and put it down in the bath and mudroom then tile.

Thanks again.