:)I finally got to the top of the windows.....    One more row to cut then tear it all down. I had to put spacers in to clear the top of my doors. I have the doors off the floor by 1.5" so the water will run out off from the floor.   Just called on all my permits just to be sure everything is fine. She said septic is all set- drive way permit all set - building permit all set.  ...... Now I have to wait for Road Ban to come off so I can get my buddy's excavator up there.... C YA headed to town - TACO TUESDAY......  I checked for square  I think I am looking pretty good only 1/2" off   - can fix that on finally assembly  I left 2.25" above doors and windows for shrinkage....

Any plumbers on here? I have a question about my plumbing. This is just a camp and will never be a residence. I have kitchen sink - shower- toilet and vanity do I NEED a vent since it is just a 1 story...

Vents keep the sinks, etc from gurgling for one thing. They also are necessary to be sure the suction of the outgoing water does not suck the traps dry. That's to prevent sewer/septic gasses from entering the building.

What will the waste pipes drain into?

I am putting in a POLY septic tank. I will have to have it pumped every so often. So can I just put a vent under the sink inside the camp?

A studor vent would work for a sink but I doubt that it would work for the volume of air needed to operate all of the drains including the toilet.  I would try to find a location close to the majority of the drain lines and put in a 3" stack up a wall on the inside and then turn it out to the soffit area.  You can disguise it by enclosing it in a verticle log ( hollowed out) to appear that it is part of the structural member.   

That sounds like what I would call a cesspool, a pumped system, no field?
Is there not an interior wall the vent stack can run up?
Most people don't really understand what a vent does. Each fixture in a plumbing system has a water trap that keeps sewer gases from following the drains back into the house. In order to maintain that trap's water seal it cannot be allowed to be sucked dry. In an unvented system when someone flushed the toilet or ran a sink heavy, and that slug of water passed by another fixture and kept travelling down the drain, the suction created would pull the water out of any traps it passed by. By having vents on each drain the slug of water will pass by, the suction is broken by the admission of free air behind that passing slug of water. It's a piston of water pulling a vaccum as it falls. The vent is the vaccum breaker.

Gurgling and slow drains are a symptom of a venting problem. We had one venting job that was so bad that when you flushed the toilet in the master bath, as that slug of water passed the half bath, it flushed that toilet automatically on its way by. The suction was powerful enough to pull the water out of that bowl and trip a flush cycle. That trap resealed after the flush but the shower and sink drains were sucked dry as well, that was my callback, but oh he had done me so much more wrong than just a smelly sink trap  . They do make a 3" studor vent... but I wouldn't. A normal vent allows the tank to burp gas harmlessly and is always there, it is non mechanical. I have seen them blocked by ice or snow but not often. Auto vents are mechanical. Ever have a mechanical device fail... or ... ever had a mechanical device that didn't fail? A passing bug can prop the thing open. I use them if I have to, but it is a last resort, I know I'll get a call sometime down the road and will have to remember to check it.

I was planning on putting 1 trap in the ground right before tank with a vent there so I don't have to put antifreeze in the drains every time I leave during the winter, Also their is going to be a leech field so it's not a cesspool.  I am just worried about the traps freezing under the camp ever when I was there during hunting season.   SO just a single sewer pipe going from tank to toilet-sink-shower-sink. If I looked at all the plumbing diagrams right the vent pipe should go between tank and trap.

Ideally the vent should be placed at the toilet or at the last drain in a series of multiple lines into the main line.  You want that vent to be as close to the appliance as possible.  By having the vent at the tank you are defeating your purpose for the vent to keep the traps from being sucked dry or not working properly.  In some cases if there is an appliance (sink) a good distance from the toilet or other appliances then an additional vent is installed.

If you are afraid of roof penetrations then you could vent it out of the side over the top plate to the soffit area.  With a properly installed roof boot there is virtually no problem in the roof.  But (experience talking) exit your vent as far up toward the ridge to avoid snow from bending it over when exiting the roof. 

You will still have to treat the toilet w/anti-freeze as the trap is internal and there is no way to empty it.  Sink & toilet traps do not require that much anti-freeze.   

The house would stink, those pipes are no rose and your end trap will be full of sewage at times, unlike the toilet which evacuates and has a trap full of fresh water each flush. That end trap and all the dirty pipe are in contact with the air and flies in the cabin if the rest of the fixtures are untrapped.

 :)Made it too the top of the windows this weekend. Even though I was very sick wed-fri. I started numbering the pieces and removing them. Bundled them up in order. And all small pieces went onto a pallet. I hope by tues. i will have it all tore down and ready to start gable ends/loft. It comes down alot quicker than it went up. I hope it goes up quick when I get it delivered to our property. I already had someone offer to buy it (shell).  He has a camp 14x18 with loft and they sleep 4-6. Talk about tight.  I have to wait until May 1st for the road bans to come off to start the driveway and post/piers.

Tore down walls and put it all on pallets to move up North to the land. Doesn't look like alot now it's on pallets. I tore it down and left 1 row to start building again the top half. The next couple of pictures is the section for the loft floor. then 3 more full tiers then gable ends.

I showed pictures in the very beginning of working on the driveway. Wasted that time. I am gonna move the whole thing about a hundred yards. The view is alot better and where the camp is going is flatter with more useable room for septic and parking.  DID I MENTION THE VIEW IS BETTER. Will need to cut and trim a little. What you are looking at is Vermont. It looks alot different with snow on it. We looked at the property in Oct.-Nov.  Flushed 2 partridges and found Moose/deer tracks up there too.I don't have too buy any firewood for awhile. There is 2-3 cords that is blown down and semi dry already 

Be sure to do the vent correctly.  Our cabin has the newer in wall vents with valves, which I had never heard of previously, the inspector explained them.  We had one with a defective valve and I am sure that you can imagine just how bad it stunk.  You certainly don't want to ever mess with that issue unless  you are trying to keep guests away. 

I plan on putting a vent pipe on the beginning of the drain line  near the kitchen sink.  I have been working on loft floor beam. Notching for floor joists. I originally was going to use 4x8x? now I am going to double up my main beam to 2) 4x8" beams. I am going to have just 1 post in the middle to support loft and roof ridge pole. Has anyone installed a RV refrigerator in a camp. How did it work out? Problems that I can see is venting? RV frigs need to have fresh air and they drain outside..

Mt Don's thread has info on how they used an RV type fridge and his cooling modifications. I've not had one with a drain, although it would have been a good idea plenty of times  .

I'm not following your floor plans but those dimensions sound light, have you double checked that?

basically an 8x8 beam supporting the loft floor with post in the middle of span..   I have taken just the 4x8 and had it supported on the ends and I can't seem to get it to bow at all- so 2 - 4x8 bolted together will be just fine.  there is going to be 2 rooms upstairs - pretty much all open(not much weight). The floor joists are 3x6 - 24"OC

I sold the first stove that I bought  today   Made enough to pay for that one plus the second one...... It's nice not having any $$$$$ into a stove.. Can spend $$ on something else like a refrigerator.... or on demand hot water heater....   I have about 15 more logs to peel... I think I will need 8-10 more logs to finish ...Martin's Sawmilling is sugaring right now. He will be here in a week or 2 to cut the final logs and a couple of more floor joists. Did I mention I am going with a full upstairs so I can have the room on the first floor.  With the bedroom on the first floor it seemed very cramped not much room to drink soda pop     Had a custom map made by Topomap.com  They put the name of our camp on it and the owners of the camp.. We named our camp The Beaver Lodge. The name came 2 ways. First the brook right next to us is Beaver Brook. 2nd last summer my friend knows a trapper and gut us some beaver meat too eat. Boy was it good. If you haven't tried it - you should. We cooked it just like a steak on the grill. Marinated it over night. AWESOME. The next thing we want to try is Woodchuck. From what I have heard is it takes like steak too.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Martin-Sawmilling-Poultry-Processing/221144607974850?ref=stream If you need some trees cut into lumber give Dan a call. I am very pleased with the D-logs and All the lumber we got out of the trees. Price wasn't bad either We did learn that sawing lumber in the winter you would get better cuts on the d-logs. The blade didn't pull so much and we only broke 1 blade the entire week. This last batch took only a day and we broke 2 blades and used 2 others.    I have enough logs now to finish camp and maybe an addition for the generator and tools.. This is what we sawed today.  We are 2/3 through the pile . We took the last 2 logs and make thick shelving and wide planks for floor.Saved the biggest log to last again. WHEW!!!!! HOPE FULLY WE ARE DONE SAWING OUT LOGS>>>>

How to keep the plumbing from freezing when at deer camp during the cold (freezing)months?  Any suggestions..

Do you want to keep water lines unfroze while the cabin is occupied or all winter?  If you don't have power to heat trace lines, design the supply plumbing with low point drains and the ability to connect an air compressor to blow out the lines and valves.  Slope your drain lines well and put RV antifreeze in the traps.

Worked on Outhouse today.  I had a bunch of 1/2 thick siding for outhouse. I think it will blend into the surroundings very well. Here is one side stained before I install stained corner boards that will be red in color. I used Harley synthetic motor oil (used of course)...

  My wife finally tried her hand at peeling a log    She loved it so much she actually did 2 logs. Then she said that was enough I THINK SHE REALIZED WHY I ONLY DO 6-12 logs then quit......LUV U HUN

I love the live edge siding or whatever they call that. I considered using it on my cabin but then figured it may be a bit much.

I dont know how well or for how long thatboil will protect the wood but i do like the color

Thank you. I like the live edge bark boards too. They give it character.I don't know how long it will last but I will have plenty more if it needs another  coat. We sprayed used oil on another outhouse that had OSB and it still looks great after 6 years. I think the key is to get the outhouse up off the ground by a foot or so. And roof over hang on the back... This was alot cheaper than shiplap or plywood siding. Only labor which is cheap ...I think I will put the see through roofing on for light...

See through rood down here would make it a combo outhouse/sauna. That may not be a good combination 

My current cabin has live edge siding, it's nice but I've noticed it's starting to curl some and the wasps LOVE living up under the siding. It doesn't bother me all that much as we tend to ignore each other. Never thought about spraying it with used motor oil. The see through roof is a cool idea, I have an outdoor shower I use in the summer.

You're going to have one nice looking building when you're done.