metal roof questions?

phalynx · January 29, 2008, 11:12:39 PM

My sheetmetal is 24 guage. Will that be less floppy? There will be 1x4 purlins extending out with the sheet metal.

glenn kangiser · January 29, 2008, 11:18:55 PM

A little less- the only problem I see is that the bottom edge of the trim is usually screwed to something to keep it square. It may or may not sit square by itself on the top of the rib. Possibly spacers on top of the sheet on top of the 1x4's could give you a way to keep it square but it depends on how the trim comes out in relation to the sheeting and if the trim is a tight fit on the rib or is taller which would allow it to sag more without the bottom edge screwed. There is the possibility of the wind coming up under it and folding it up over the roof also.

January 29, 2008, 11:26:42 PM

phalynx I was just making a comment about Glenn screwing the sheets together then going back and attaching them to the perlins. He could easily walk on a lesser pitch to fasten the sheets to the perlins. You will be OK with 24 guage. Had you considered putting a false rafter in your 6" overhang that you would attach the facia tin onto. Just watch that you do not end up with more roof than you have tin or you will be having to cut 6-8" off one side to slip under the next to last piece to make it work. Another option might be to figure a wider overhang on each end and one more sheet of tin to make it all come out right.

If you don't get anything else out of your inquiries think square. I have seen buildings where the tin is 1-2" overhang on the gable ends at the bottom and 4-5" at the top and worse. But if you start off with the same amount of overhang on the end(ridge and tail) and hold the bottom to a string line and your roof sheeting is fairly square you will be fine.

I forgot to ask if you are putting a ridge vent or ridge cap?. That makes it a little more forgiving if the tin falls a little short on the ridge end.

Willy · January 30, 2008, 01:14:19 AM

Quote from: Redoverfarm on January 29, 2008, 11:26:42 PM
phalynx I was just making a comment about Glenn screwing the sheets together then going back and attaching them to the perlins. He could easily walk on a lesser pitch to fasten the sheets to the perlins. You will be OK with 24 guage. Had you considered putting a false rafter in your 6" overhang that you would attach the facia tin onto. Just watch that you do not end up with more roof than you have tin or you will be having to cut 6-8" off one side to slip under the next to last piece to make it work. Another option might be to figure a wider overhang on each end and one more sheet of tin to make it all come out right.

If you don't get anything else out of your inquiries think square. I have seen buildings where the tin is 1-2" overhang on the gable ends at the bottom and 4-5" at the top and worse. But if you start off with the same amount of overhang on the end(ridge and tail) and hold the bottom to a string line and your roof sheeting is fairly square you will be fine.

I forgot to ask if you are putting a ridge vent or ridge cap?. That makes it a little more forgiving if the tin falls a little short on the ridge end.

The thing about tin not fitting the roof you should have been getting the mesage that it won't a long time before hand. If you have been triming plywood to fit and other boards that were all the same length but for some reason not fitting in place. there should have been a red flag your out of square. Buildings all start at the foundation. if it is not square and level the rest will have to be adjusted during the whole building process. That is why it is so important the time is taken to do the first part right no matter what. Don't ask me how I learned this a long time ago! Mark

rdpecken · January 30, 2008, 08:02:57 PM

Quote from: Redoverfarm on January 29, 2008, 10:44:41 PM
rdpecken

What color do you call that shown in the picture? Unusual but I like it. I am sort of tired of the Forrest Green and reds used today. Thats why I went with a burnished slate.

Actually, that is the Forest Green supplied by AbsoluteSteel in Tempe, AZ. http://www.metalroofingsource.com
I like it. It's kind of dark.

January 30, 2008, 10:17:05 PM

Just didn't look like that green it looked darker. Might have been the photo, time of day or sun. They have a dist in Lancaster Pa which is not to farm from me. But that is steel country anyway. Keep us posted.

Mo · February 09, 2008, 09:01:25 PM

When we started putting on the roof we had no idea, the roofer put us off for to long and we decided to do it ourselves.
To hold the metal up we used L brackets made out of 2x4's clamped on to the end of the rafters and leveled leaving a 2" overhang. We chalked a line across the top of the rafters at 17' 10" squared up. After I screwed in the roofsheet on the top to hold it and adjusted to the chalk line. After the 1st one we just moved the brackets to hold the next sheet level. I tied off to the ridgebeam so I just moved up and down the metal. I hope this makes since, we did it on all 3 roofs and square on all.

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Willy · February 09, 2008, 10:28:11 PM

Quote from: Mo on February 09, 2008, 09:01:25 PM
When we started putting on the roof we had no idea, the roofer put us off for to long and we decided to do it ourselves.
To hold the metal up we used L brackets made out of 2x4's clamped on to the end of the rafters and leveled leaving a 2" overhang. We chalked a line across the top of the rafters at 17' 10" squared up. After I screwed in the roofsheet on the top to hold it and adjusted to the chalk line. After the 1st one we just moved the brackets to hold the next sheet level. I tied off to the ridgebeam so I just moved up and down the metal. I hope this makes since, we did it on all 3 roofs and square on all.

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What ever works and if by yourselt that sounds like a good way to do it. I allways put one screw in a top corner till I have the sheets up and all square. Then I go to the bottom edge line them up put in another screw and then finish with the rest of the screws. That way it is easy to correct a problem. Mark

Mo · February 09, 2008, 10:42:13 PM

I had 2 people helping me but they didn't want to get on the roof. I took a knot tying class at the local climbing school and tied off the center of the ridgebeam. You need to make sure you push the metal out from one side to the other as you put the screws in.By the 30th sheet you will be really good though. This is our cabin. It is a modification of Victorias Cottage.

The roof is my roof the cabin is ours

February 10, 2008, 12:09:45 AM

Nice job, and great that you could handle the roof. Some folks have a real bad time with the height.

Mo · February 10, 2008, 12:16:51 AM

Thanks. I was the 1 out of 3 that didn't mind. The side room was added 1 year after the main. 32' to the smack didn't seem exciting to the Just Helping friend.

mvk · February 10, 2008, 01:44:38 AM

Mo
Great looking place, like your siding. I want to do board and batten, I'm leaning towards reverse though with the batten underneath.

I haven't installed metal before but am leaning that way, most everybody that I know say they would go that way. In regards to what Willy said about doing it right from the start. Seems to me it would be easiest to measure your diagonals when you just had the rafters on and then you would have a idea of where you are. My 2 cents worth.

Mike

Mo · February 10, 2008, 10:04:26 AM

Thanks, we were going to do reverse but after reading many posts and looking at other cabins we decided to do it this way. We put on black paper, then perlins and decided to put the wider boards next. We used screws and covered them with the battens. No warping.
We did measure that way but only the outside rafters. Measured. Plumbed. Measured. Chalked.