rim joist nailing?

Started by CjAl, July 14, 2012, 04:01:50 PM

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PEG688

 Make it free standing , I wouldn't change joist size for deck building issues.  That's a small issue to resolve.
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

CjAl

actually i had planned on using 2x8 floor joists. the only reason i mentioned using the 2x10's is because lowes has them for $3 cheaper then the 2x8's right now.  cant figure out why but they do.

i will build it free standing though.


PEG688

2x10 would be stiffer , more insulation , more room for ducts , wires , plumbing , just sayin c* And IF they are cheaper  d*
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

CjAl

thats what i was thinking. problem is only the ten footers are cheaper. $5 per 2x10x10.  so that would only give me 3" of overlap. you think that would be okay if i glued and nailed them together and to the beam and used huricane ties on each side of the center beam?

PEG688

Quote from: CjAl on July 15, 2012, 12:13:31 PM
thats what i was thinking. problem is only the ten footers are cheaper. $5 per 2x10x10.  so that would only give me 3" of overlap. you think that would be okay if i glued and nailed them together and to the beam and used huricane ties on each side of the center beam?

One more time , IF you use the 10 footers I'd suggest using inverted hangers over the area that does NOT have the center partition , or a  Simpson strap that can go up , over and back down the other side.

Another "money" saver is use the 10 footer under the area that  has the partition and the 20 footers only at the non-partitoned area.  But "saving" pennies by doing this may create other issues, like the 20 footers being larger , or smaller in height than the 10 footers.

Some time "cost savings " ideas become a PITA for to many reasons to predict! One of which is chasing ones tail attempting to figure out which penny you want to save while it cost you a dime in time  d* 
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


CjAl

sorry, i missed the part about the area without the center partition. my computer reads me the posts while i am working so i sometimes miss bits.

turned into a long thread for simply asking if i needed anything more then just nailing a rim joist to the end of a floor joist. alextrent got me all worked up with the "you cant do that" and the "at lest 12" overlap".

alex trent

#31
To be accurate, I said "i think not". As it turns out you can and i had read the same  thing about cantilever being no more than depth of joist is OK...I thought that was only for decks. I would not do it, even if the code allows it.

As for the overlap, not sure who  said that but, boy, a lot has been made of it. Not sure what one would need it, but the raft of problems attributed to it are more in theory than practice I think.

In any case, it generated a lot of POV and info....you have to sort through it all to get what you need.  I think that is the best part of Q&A on the site.

PEG688

Quote from: CjAl on July 15, 2012, 03:30:10 PM


sorry, i missed the part about the area without the center partition. my computer reads me the posts while i am working so i sometimes miss bits.



What's the world coming to , computers reading to it's owner!! What's next, bedtime stories??  :o
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

CjAl

 ;D

i drive about 14hrs a day. a laptop stand, turn on the accessability features for the deaf or use some special software, connect thru bluetooth headset and use dragon speach to text software, helps pass the days without being too dangerous. tons of audio books too