Cutting Bricks

Started by southernsis, November 01, 2008, 04:22:27 PM

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southernsis

We salvaged a few thousand bricks. Some of them are broken, but there are still usable pieces. I am wondering can you put a masonary blade on a skill saw and cut that way or what kind of saw with blade.Dont want to buy or rent a saw. What kind of tool do you use to score a brick and break it? I know nothing about  bricks, so any help? My husband wants to use his compound miter saw, but I am sure I read, not to use it for masonary. Help, I have hit a brick wall. [frus]
Don't worry about the horse being blind, just load the wagon.

glenn kangiser

There is a chisel called a brick set - I use one about 4" wide - just put the brick on top a couple others unsupported in the center and hit the chisel on top with about a 3 lb hammer - it will cut relatively clean.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2081173_use-brick-set.html

A saw will likely get problems soon as the brick dust or rock dust affect the windings and bearings pretty quickly.

The silica in the dust can cause silicosis.  That said if I wanted to cut them with a saw I would get a dry diamond blade and use it with a throw away skill saw.  Harbor freight has diamond blades cheap.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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glenn kangiser

The directions on the link are better than mine.  I was shown by an old fellow from Guam.  The bricks can just be sand set also with no mortar.  Smooth and set a sand bed the depth of the bricks below finished grade. 

Put a redwood 2x4 border if you like.  Lay the bricks out in the desired pattern. 

Sweep sand over the top and between the joints in the bricks.  Water it down with a hose. 

Sweep and spray it off with water.  It will stay there forever - no mortar needed-- done.

Al (Guam) cleaned bricks with a knife he called a bull - a heavy knife sort of like a machete, striking the old mortar and knocking it off clean.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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Sassy

We have brick walkways/patios all around the house in Kerman - done in different patterns - circular, herringbone etc, set in sand - they've been there for almost 25 yrs - still look really nice.  Also easy to repair or change. 
http://glennkathystroglodytecabin.blogspot.com/

You will know the truth & the truth will set you free

glenn kangiser

Found an old pix of the bricks around the pond- not too good .



"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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n74tg

I cut maybe 300-400 cuts on concrete blocks with a diamond blade on my 20 year old Skilsaw; wore out one blade and about half of a second blade.  Then I framed the house using that same old Skilsaw; it's still running fine.  Just orient your work so the concrete/brick dust blows away from you and the saw.  It will keep the dust out of the saw, but more importantly it will help keep the dust out of your lungs.  On calm days I used a fan to create the breeze. 

Oh, the Walmart brand diamond blade (mine was about $14) worked just as well as the $35 name brand blade from Lowes. 

I also used that diamond blade to cut ceramic tile for the kitchen and utility room.  Though it cuts "dry" the cut quality was probably 95% as good as the "wet" saw I borrowed from a friend (and a LOT less messy). 
My house building blog:

http://n74tg.blogspot.com/

cordwood

I tended for a "Bricky" when I was a kid and he just used a brick hammer. I am not near as good as he was but I can still make fair cuts. Plus brick hammers come in handy for a lot of other uses like separating boards and prying window & door frames into place. ;)
I cut it three times and it's still too short.

southernsis

Thanks everyone. Now it is work time again.
Don't worry about the horse being blind, just load the wagon.

MountainDon

Clay bricks or concrete bricks? Seems nobody asked that question.

Concrete bricks make good walks, clay ones don't as a rule.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


glenn kangiser

The ones we used above were red clay bricks and held up well even with parking a car on them for about 20- 25 years - sand set, however I have noticed lots of different grades and hardnesses in red clay baked bricks.  I would say the above were medium hardness.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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MountainDon

I think it also makes a difference on how hard the frosts are.   ???
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

That would be for sure as they will hold moisture and freeze - breaking them up.  We very seldom freeze down there and seldom freeze here.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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MountainDon

Here in the high desert we have lots of freezing nights come Dec - Jan   [shivering emoticon goes here]
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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MountainDon

That one does the job!   

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

southernsis

They are clay bricks. We do not get that many days of freeze in Arkansas.
Don't worry about the horse being blind, just load the wagon.

n74tg

Sis:
I didn't realize you are in Arkansas...where?
My house building blog:

http://n74tg.blogspot.com/

jb52761

In my experience, the brick chisel that Glenn mentioned has been successful enough. The only down side that I know of with the red bricks are the fact that mine here tend to be quite slick when it rains.....not always, but enough that I've learned to not go outside and Salsa dance on them during a monsoon... jb

glenn kangiser

Any video of that, jb? hmm
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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MountainDon

Quote from: southernsis on November 04, 2008, 06:31:27 AM
They are clay bricks. We do not get that many days of freeze in Arkansas.

What is your intended use? On ground or above ground like a wall or column?

Here in the high desert of NM, even though it doesn't rain much, there is enough moisture picked up from the ground that clay brick walks and borders suffer from flaking and general deterioration over time because of the freeze - thaw -refreeze action. I'd be wary of on/in ground use if there is any freezing at all. Simply my opinion.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


jb52761

I'll work on that...have to set up a tripod to get it on film....wouldn't want another human-being to have to witness it..... :o

southernsis

North East Arkansas in a little town called Evening Shade.
We will probably use the brick for a floor in a cord wood storage building and as borders for raised beds. Maybe for the pretend foundation on my husbands shop. Just can't resist bringing things home when they are free.
Don't worry about the horse being blind, just load the wagon.

cordwood

Quote from: southernsis on November 04, 2008, 06:07:31 PM
North East Arkansas in a little town called Evening Shade.
We will probably use the brick for a floor in a cord wood storage building and as borders for raised beds. Maybe for the pretend foundation on my husbands shop. Just can't resist bringing things home when they are free.
"Frost Heave" will still be a problem where you are. I live a little south of you but close enough to share similar temps. Any unprotected paving will eventually become bumpy and take on a "Natural" look ;) I have seen a few walkways that still looked good after the heaving but not recommended for elderly people using a walker. (I am getting there quick :o)
Good drainage seems to help but the bricks tend to attract moisture, I have a couple hundred stacked in the yard and the bottom ones seem to stay wet looking all year.
I cut it three times and it's still too short.

glenn kangiser

Winter's on it's way, Sis. and you have them so I would at least set up a test area - walk or something and try them out.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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