simpson type connectors

[dogneck]

I am building the 16x24.  Plan calls for 4x6 joists (24ft).  I will place on top of 10" sono concrete piers 8" off ground.   What type of simpson or connector and where can I find it?

[Garrett In Tahoe]

A simpson PB44 is normally used in this application. It will accomidate either a 4x4 post below your 4x6 girder (joist), or the girder can sit directly on the PB44. It is more forgiving to use short posts below you girder to elevate it otherwise all your piers need to be perfectly level to one another. The PB44 needs to be set when your pour your sonotubes, make sure you keep them in line with a string. If it's outside the structure a PBS44A is used which has a 1" standoff to protect the post from moisture. Available at most hardware stores.

[MountainDon]

  dogneck

Garrett got you pointed in the right direction.

The Simpson Strong-Tie website as all their current products available for perusal. Mouse over the names of the products and the page will present a small image. Click on it and details come up.

Here are some that could be used.

    ABU44 used with anchor bolt set in concrete


    EPB44A  set in the wet concrete


    EPB44T  can be placed and epoxied in place later. It can also be used simply resting in drilled holes but then provides to uplift resistance.


These are all meant to hold posts but you could lay a beam across them.

As Garrett also pointed out IF you were to use these bases to mount a short post it does make leveling the bases much less critical. All you need to do is cut the post off to exact required length after the concrete has set.

You mentioned 8" off the ground. Are you planning on using PT beams? Maybe you are; good. If not you should be aware that code calls for a minimum of 12" between ground and the lower edge of such beams. If you're not in a code area you could get away with it, but be more at risk of water damage/rot, wood eating insects, etc.  If you used short PT posts to raise the beams you wouldn't need PT beams.

[MountainDon]

If you really want to place the beams on the sonotubed concrete with no posts here's a tip that can make that job easier. There's a topic with a picture somewhere on site, but I couldn't find it. Have to do a word picture. 

You would need to make temporary supports to hold the beam at the precise elevation  required to make the beam level. You would attach the Simpson EPB44 to the beam. Position the whole works over the sonotubes and work the concrete around them. Let set.  (probably a lot of work but you can impress your friends with your base placement accuracy.)


ALSO, FYI, the lower edge of floor joists must be 18" off the ground, or be PT wood, according to code.

Galvanized steel would work too. 

[PEG688]

 I'd recommend a CB44 ZMAX  post beam base. The idea to use a posts in conjuncture with the beam is a sound one , at the post to beam connection a  AC4 would be  a  good choice.



CB44

 


Link :     http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/CBQ.asp


  AC4

 

Link:     http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/AC-ACE-LPCZ-LCE.asp


Any of the Borg / big box stores or a local lumber yard should be able to hook you up.

The CB series as you can see are a beefer/ heavier connector.

Here's a link to a way to set your brackets ,

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3403.new#new

I bumped it back up from page 20 , all the good stuff , well not all but a lot settles down after a while. 

 
   

[dogneck]

Thanks to everyone.
This is an addition to my house for use as storage/workroom.   I was going to use 4x6 pressure treated beams then place the joists on top (rather than with hangers). To get it higher off the ground.  I wanted the floor level out the back door to match.  We are on a slight hillside, and the beam near the original house would be 8", but the other would be more like 15".    I am hand-excavating it all. The county plans call for eight 8" sono tubes with only two beams.  I thought 10" diameter would be better-  it seems like some web sites show that 8' sono tubes are not adequate for a 16x24 ft porch, much less a building.   This is my first project. And I would rather not have it fall over the hill,  but I can do the sono-tubes, but cannot do a whole concrete traditional foundation myself.  Again- thanks to all.

[MountainDon]

Where in the country will your cabin be located dogneck?

What will you be using for footings?

I like to see your questions starting at the bottom.   

[MountainDon]

I bumped it back up from page 20

That's the one....   I just couldn't remember the details.  Better than trying to hang to whole beam. 



Don't know what we'd do w/o Paul. 

[PEG688]

    dogleg .

Theres more to it than just sitting the joist on top of the beam . So this will be a addtion to a existing house , you may want to sub out a concrete foundation.

A few basic questions ,

  #1: Geographically where will the building / addition be located. This ties into many factors , earthquake, high wind , snow / weather conditions , other "local" issues.


#2: Will you be subject to any building code / building dept inspections / regs.

     a) If so do you know what code book they use? IRC , UBC etc ??

#3: Does the existing structure have  a concrete foundation? It can be a good idea to match floor framing type , IE concrete foundation , like and kind floor joist system as addition framed with different types of floor systems can act differently at varous time of the year. This can show up as flooring gaps , cracked dry wall etc as the two structure "move" differently . 


   Again  to the forum. 
 

[dogneck]

I am located in Hurricane, WV.  (yes, that's the name of the town).  We are not in any hurricane alley however.
The foundation of the house is concrete with block.  Since the house is on a hillside.  The back of the house has a walk-out at basement level with full 8' block rear wall.  This one story frame county plan addition would be 12' at rear of house, with 12' into yard area. I understand what your saying about similar foundations, but the addition is almost free standing, as it will be storage/workroom, probably no drywall.  We don't have any building codes in this county and no inspections.   

[PEG688]

That frees you up a lot , I'd still use the CB brackets with a 10" pier with a big foot or similar footing. Google Bigfoot and you should see what they are , again a big box or lumberyard should have or be able to order all that stuff.   
 

Heck here's the link or a link to Bigfoot ,

http://www.bigfootsystems.com/products

[Garrett In Tahoe]

I stand on my original recommendation. The rest of these ideas are pretty costly and certainly overkill for a storage room. Just my opinion. CB's are intended for post columns, like in the pictures of the trellis.

[Redoverfarm]

Peg funny you should mention those. I just got an issue of Old House and they had them advertised in it. I had never seen them before.  But I really hadn't paid any attention as most of my piers were block on footers.  I guess a person could throw some extra concrete around the base once the sono tubes were poured to keep any sideways shifting since the hole would have to be dug in a large diam to accomidate the base.  Or again maybe some would not think that would be an issue and just backfill competely with stone or earth.

dogneck funny you should mention Hurricane as my sister lives there between Rt 60 & I-64 about halfway between Hurricane and Winfield near a golf course. Don't know the name of the street but know how to get there.

[dogneck]

Actually for the 14x24,  it calls for a 6x12 beam.   Built up from three 2x12 with plywood spacers.   The epb44's won't work.   I only saw one forum regarding someone using epb66.   The photo of the epb66 looks like a pipe going into the concrete.  Has anyone used one?   Is it a pipe, is it threaded or is there a bolt to place the connector on top?    I am using a water level and will take the prior advice to make sure it is all level.  I want to place the beam directly on top of the concrete sonotube.    As always- thanks to everyone for all the help.

[glenn kangiser]

Look fixed length to me.  I'd level the sonotube tops - nail them to boards set to height and staked in place, or nail them to the beams prior to pouring with the beams blocked in place if there is room to pour around the beams and get the concrete in the sonotubes.

Minimum  imbed means they can stick up a bit -imbed depth depends on which option on length you have..

You don't want to be messing around with these in sloppy wet concrete trying to keep them to height, square and straight.  It won't happen.

[glenn kangiser]

Check this out too.



...and check this - where that came from.

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=4113.msg53912#msg53912