loft decking questions (for VC)

[MikeT]

I got my beams up for the loft in the Victoria's Cottage plan.  I ordered the 2x6 T&G for delivery this week, but I was wondering about the best way to install the decking:

-should I do any sanding of the underside before I install it?  Sealing the underside?

-when I install it, should I nail it in like I would with oak flooring (eg angled at the tongue)?

-should I use glue as well?

I plan on putting some plywood on top of the deck to protect it because will use the deck as work area while I am getting the roof on.

Thanks for your help.

mt

[John Raabe]

You will likely get some better advice from others on the forum but here are some things about decking that I've seen work:
• Make sure decking is dry and stabilized
• Sand any grade stamps and prefinish on at least the exposed bottom side.
• Pull the boards together before nailing, do not glue between deck boards but do glue to beams.
• You can sand the upper side for a finished floor but an underlayment will cut down on noise and dust and add strength to the floor diaphragm.

[MikeT]

Thanks, John.  Let me fire off another related question given the comment about underlayment on top of the decking:

While I understand the soundproofing nature, I thought one of the reasons this was recommended was that it served a dual purpose--on the underside it provides a decorative ceiling, and on top it provides a usable loft floor.  If I were to use an underlayment on top wouldn't that take away some of the financial advantage of this decking?  Wouldn't I be money ahead to not do the decking and instead put down a good quality 3/4" plywood, perhaps cabinet grade?  

Just wondering....

[glenn kangiser]

I did a similar floor with 1x12 t&g pine (mill added groove only at 6") with 3/4 underlayment over it for the upstairs floor.  This could give the knotty pine ceiling but still have the carpeted etc. floor upstairs or in the loft.

[John_C]

Do as much finishing on the underside as you can before you install it.  On a couple houses I've sprayed the T&G with lacquer based sanding sealer or with an oil like Watco before I installed it.  Saves working overhead and having to cut in around the beams.

Nailing it can be a pain.  The 2x6 I've seen around here has a double T&G.  It takes a very long finish nail to blind nail it at a 45[ch730]  angle from above the upper tongue. I don't know if any of the flooring hammers are meant to do 2x flooring.  Ask a rental place.    Glue on the beams help minimize squeaks.

If you are putting plywood over it permanently just face nail it.

[PEG688]

Thanks, John.  Let me fire off another related question given the comment about underlayment on top of the decking:

While I understand the soundproofing nature, I thought one of the reasons this was recommended was that it served a dual purpose--on the underside it provides a decorative ceiling, and on top it provides a usable loft floor.  If I were to use an underlayment on top wouldn't that take away some of the financial advantage of this decking?  Wouldn't I be money ahead to not do the decking and instead put down a good quality 3/4" plywood, perhaps cabinet grade?  

Just wondering....

Humm if you spaced the joist out for 2x6 decking you'd have to use 1 1/8" thick T&G plywood , and that might not work either , whats the spacing between the joist??

 The T&G looks good and  if it's dry,  say 13 % MC or under,  I'd not glue it to the joist tops , it'll only make a mess of the "finished ceiling side, the glue always gets where you don't want it at least thats been my experience , and const. adhesive really doesn't hold that well generally, I've remodeled a lot of homes and as a rule that glue doesn't hold as well as they say , at least IMO .

 I'd pre-sand ,  benite ,  stain , and maybe 1 clear coat.  Then I'd nail it flooring style/ toe nail  with 16 d galv nails , if it's dry enought it shouldn't shrink to gaps , the subfloor John's talking about cuts down on noise , some what , but mostly dust transmission from the floor / life / living  space above.

So your advantage  is  a nice looking finished T&G ceiling and "sub flooring " upstairs  with one product, it could be the finished floor for awhile , just sand it after you lay it and stain / apply clear finish as you desire .  Later on  IF the dirt / dust filtering thru bothers you add the "finished "  floor then .

 Hope this helps explain it more clearly.

G/L PEG

[MikeT]

Thanks, folks.  I will treat the underside as suggested and then see how the top deck works before I add the expense of another floor.  I was really surprised to see how expensive that 2x6 T&G is.

As for nailing, PEG suggests using 16d galvies blind nailed.  Why not 16d finishing nails?  I am thinking this might be a good for my palm nailer.

[MarkAndDebbie]

Thanks, folks.  I will treat the underside as suggested and then see how the top deck works before I add the expense of another floor.  I was really surprised to see how expensive that 2x6 T&G is.

As for nailing, PEG suggests using 16d galvies blind nailed.  Why not 16d finishing nails?  I am thinking this might be a good for my palm nailer.

I don't know why - but I'll guess that the finishing nails would not hold as well as 16d sinkers and the galvies would hold even better - touch a finish nail then a galv - much more friction to hold it together.

Couldn't you use the palm nailer with the galvies?

[PEG688]

Mark or Debbie :-/ :-/ has it , you'll need that added "suck together" power  the 16 galv. common wiill give you . 2x6 T&G really needs to be shown who's in charge , that big head and the pull up power along with a large straight slot screw driver or sharpened flat bar to pry the T&G tight then wack the nail in .

The palm nailer will work on most boards but I'd highly recommend a added wack or two to "suck er up tight"  as well. Or a bow wrench , seen um,  never used one , they look like the right idea , not sure  they are made stout enought to do what they are designed for,  :-/ only use would tell.


You really want those boards tight , even if they are some what dry , like I said 14 % or under.

 The fiinsh nail or a finish nail gun will not pullum up tight and they will be able to move / head pulls through to easy with a finish nail.

Do as you please , your house,  your time ,your dime ,  I'm just telling you what I've learned and done for 30 years or so  

G/L PEG

[MikeT]

Thanks for the clarification on the nails.  I do not have a bo wrench, but I do have a variety of big hammers  and lots of scrap wood.  One way or another, we will get em in nice and tight.  16d galvies it is!

mt