14x24 Cabin help with pics?

[mand0092]

Siding, Soffits and Facea are completed!!!!! so now all I need to do is paint the primed hardi and the outside is finished. You'll notice that i've ran ledger boards on the bottom and top of the side wall. Next summer im planning on building a covered porch that runs the entire length of the structure. I just wanted to make sure I installed the ledger boards when doing the siding so im not backtracking too much. I guess now it's onto the interior (which might be a fall/winter project).

[mand0092]

I've been painting the cabin for the past few days and building temporary entry stairs and a ladder for the loft. I was going to use T&G 2x6's for the loft flooring but the prices around here are rediculous. Im thinking about just throwing down some 3/4" subflooring t/g and just throwing up some pine t/g underneath the exposed bottom to give it a decent look.

My goal for tonight (after work) is to get the subflooring installed in the loft. the rest of the week (weather permitting) finish the exterior painting.

[Redoverfarm]

I've been painting the cabin for the past few days and building temporary entry stairs and a ladder for the loft. I was going to use T&G 2x6's for the loft flooring but the prices around here are rediculous. Im thinking about just throwing down some 3/4" subflooring t/g and just throwing up some pine t/g underneath the exposed bottom to give it a decent look.

My goal for tonight (after work) is to get the subflooring installed in the loft. the rest of the week (weather permitting) finish the exterior painting.

I guess I am in a region that is rich in timber and T&G is in abundance but is the cost of 3/4" sub floor and 3/4" T&G relatively less than just 2X T&G.

[mand0092]

Red Rover,

Great point! I have to think about the total cost after finishing. I looked at Menards website and found some 2x6 T&G for about $160 more than the OSB. however to finish that OSB off it would cost a lot more than $160. When I called the store, I was quoted 30% more for 2x6 T&G and then when I went into the store this morning, they quoted me double what I found online. I brought a print out of the price I found online...Not sure how I can get 3 different prices, but im glad I did my research and got it relatively cheap.

[mand0092]

I've finished painting the exterior (pretty much) and have just a few spots to touch up. I've also added temporary front entry stairs for now. i'll be adding a front porch and deck next spring but wanted to be able to get into the structure without having to jump up.


I purchased 3/4" OSB for the loft flooring but soon returned it after I realized that i'd rather just buy 2x6 T&G planking for the loft floor and finish that off. Thank you to Redoverfarm for helping me with all of my questions on the flooring! I would definitely do the plank flooring again as it gives it a great "rustic" finished look. I will say that the t&G pine does tend to warp and have some nice bows in the wood. A good crowbar, decking screws and a couple beers are a must when installing. After starting with 2 1/2" finishing nails I soon realized they wouldn't be anywhere near strong enought to hold this beefy flooring. I had to very slowly insert 3" decking screws through the tongue and into the beams underneath...this seemed to hold the flooring great. Below you'll see the loft I installed last week. Note to self...make sure to order 20% more material because some of the boards had knots and splits that couldn't be used.

[mand0092]

Well, I haven't been on here for a while. I've been waiting for decent boards to get special ordered for the remainder of the loft flooring. I had to return and re-order 5 different times (started with 30 boards...returned 11 crappy ones..then reordered the 11 and got 6 crappy ones then reordered 6 and got only 4 boards....of which 3 were complete crap...so I reordered them again and FINALLY received 4 boards I could finish with).
So that was my holdup for the past 8 weeks.. Below is a picture of underneath the loft.


I've also cleaned up the work area and took a picture of the inside of the cabin as it sits right now. Next step is to insulate and run electrical (not sure if I'll be able to get electrical in this fall or not...hopefully.

[mand0092]

I've got a question for my electrical run. Im lookiong at going with 6-3 UF wiring from my house panel out to a subpanel in the cabin. The run from the house to the cabin is 100' and my electrical panel in the house is on the other side (50' away) making the total length needed at least 150'. I cannot find any 6-3 uf cable between 125' and 250' lengths. the going rate for this wiring is about 2.50 a foot, so I don't want to have to buy a 250' roll if I don't have too. Can I run regular 6-3 throughout my house run (50') and then through a junction box, connect the 6-3UF off of that and make the run outside for the extra 100'? I know it's better to have a straight run without splicing, but I wasn't sure if this could be done.....Any thoughts?

[Duane Flanders]

Yes you can splice it, just make sure that the junction box is inside the house. I would use split bolts (stronger connection than wire nuts) wrapped with rubber tape and then 33+ (at least 2 layers of each).  They also make a connector that is insulated.  You put your wires in it, tighten down the set screws and insert the connected plugs over the set screws. A little more pricey, but easier to use. I believe you can get them at Lowe's/Home Depot/Menards but if not you can get them at any electrical supply house.

[MountainDon]

I've bought splicing blocks (with the set screws) at Lowe's, complete with a heat shrink sleeve that has a hot melt adhesive on the inside. makes a nice connection.

[mand0092]

Well, my first year of building this cabin has come to an end. I am very happy with the progress and excited to see the finished shell up. Next April/May as soon as the ground thaws we will be running the electrical to the building as well as installing the insulation (already purchased). My goal is to purchase the materials for the electrical, the chimney stove pipe and any other finishing materials from now until April so I have it all set to go.

This project although frustrating at times has been one of the best experiences of my life. Knowing you built something with friends and family using your own hands that will stand for a long time and have great times inside of it is great. I highly suggest anyone that is thinking about starting their cabin to stop thinking and just start it. You will not regret it.

[chaddhamilton]

You're doing a great job. Looking forward to seeing your progress next year.

Chadd

[considerations]

"I think next time I think about starting a project anywhere close to this one, i'll multiply the estimate by 2 just in case."

That has been my experience...I call it the "don't know what I don't know factor". 

[mand0092]

Very late spring....
I was hoping to get started on the electrical in April, but the snow is still around and the ground is still frozen. I haven't seen a March like this in a long time. I've hoarded menards gift cards and saved enough to purchase all of the electrical materials i "think" i'll need. First step will be to trench from the house to the cabin and then install the electrical subpanel. I'm trying to figure out if I should go with a 100amp or 60amp or what amp service out there.

After electrical and insulation are installed, then i'll work on installing the wood stove and walls. Getting the itch to start working it again!

[TheWire]

I would put a 100 amp panel with 20 spaces so you have room to expand.  But you talked about using 6-3 cable, in which case the biggest breaker you can put in your main breaker panel to feed cabin sub-panel is 60 amps.  If you don't have heavy loads like an electric range, electric water heater, electric heat or central A/C 60 amps should be plenty.  But if you put in a 100 amp panel, you can always put bigger wire between the house and cabin and upgrade to 100A.  Along those lines, I suggest you put the wire in PVC conduit or black plastic pipe big enough to pull a bigger wire in later.  You can also buy a 500' spool of THHN cheaper than 150' feet of 6-3UF and run 3 conductors a conduit.

[mand0092]

I have been off this project for a long time, but starting to ramp up again. I've invested in some "needed" tools for the job. Below is my new to me toy for digging the trench to the cabin for electrical. After digging through large roots 2' deep, I needed something else.


Below is the pictures of the finished trench. It splits off so I can run my main feed to the electrical in the main structure and then have a on/off 3 way switch to the garage so I can turn the lights off at both locations (garage and cabin).



My next move is to run all of the electrical in heavy conduit and connect the electrical to the cabin breaker and the main building main breaker. This has now taken me almost 2 years to get to this point..but hey....I am still doing what I can.

[mand0092]

Need some help,

Im installing the wood stove this weekend and I will be running the piping through the metal roof. Does anyone know what I should purchase for a transition outside for a correct installation for a metal roof? also, im thinking about building a Hearth that would be 12" high (off the ground) and sheathed in a durrarock material with stone on top and on the side walls. Any body else done this before and if so could you make suggestions as too the process?

thanks everyone!

[Redoverfarm]

Need some help,

Im installing the wood stove this weekend and I will be running the piping through the metal roof. Does anyone know what I should purchase for a transition outside for a correct installation for a metal roof? also, im thinking about building a Hearth that would be 12" high (off the ground) and sheathed in a durrarock material with stone on top and on the side walls. Any body else done this before and if so could you make suggestions as too the process?

thanks everyone!

They make a special tranistion boot for heat and metal roof.  Check around at a stove shop or online. Here is one company for some information to digest.   

http://www.pipebootexpress.com/?gclid=CIaC_qDs5rkCFZSd4AodPGoAnQ

I would just make the frame as standard framing steps.  Depending on the size you might want to put an extra wall within directly under where the stove would be setting.  Cover with the durarock using their type screws (flush mount kind).  You never mentioned whether it is going to be a stand a lone or against a wall.  If the later keep the manufacurers clearences in mind. 

[CjAl]

When I built my hearth I used two pieces of durarock with sheetmetal sandwiched between them. Don't remember where I found the information but that is what was recomended. I then tiled over it

[mand0092]

Thanks everyone, appreciate the help!

I was able to get the stove pipe installed through the ceiling and up on the roof this past weekend. The chimney out of the roof extends over 6' tall so I added the support brackets just in case. I used the stainless double wall ubber expensive pipe through the ceiling and on the exterior and the black double wall extendable black pipe for the inside. i'll have about 18' of pipe from the stove to the top of the exterior piping. I wonder if there will be much heat at all after traveling up 18'?

I roughed in the electrical boxes and ran the wire in the corner, I then insulated and put the poly vapor barrier up behind the durarock. I ran durarock up the walls 12' high and 5' wide on each side wall as well as the hearth base.

[mand0092]

I succefully finished my trench and after working on it for a very long time getting it down 24" in the worst root infested area I've seen, the conduit is burried and the main breaker is connected!!! YES!!!! below are some pictures of the nasty trench.

I now have a 60amp service run to the cabin. This should be sufficient enough since I will not be putting in plumbing and the heat source will be from the wood stove. Now it's time to wire the whole cabin, Insulate it and finish her off.

[mand0092]

Plugged in the first light to an outlet today and was pretty excited to have light not coming from a very long extension cord. I will be finishing the wood stove install, running the interior electrical and trying to get the insulation up before christmas. My goal was to have Christmas in the cabin this year and open gifts under a Christmas tree and a fire in the stove but it's getting late and the weekends are running out. It will take 3 days to get it ready for sheetrock im thinking...So maybe over Christmas Break.

[John Raabe]

Congrats on getting the lights on. After all most all of the worlds winter holidays are a festival of lights. (However, heat is nice too.  )