12x16 on the way... new land

[Tom]

Is 3/4 inch T&G standard for the floor?

[dug]

3/4 T&G plywood on 24 centers is what I used for my floor. Some say it is a little spongy but mine feels plenty solid to me. I know that it is rated for that.

One consideration for 24 in. centers on the walls is that you may have to use thicker (heavier!) sheathing and drywall on the inside.

Looks good!

[Redoverfarm]

Tom unless you have already purchased your subfloor you might consider "Advantex" or "Surfloor" if you think it will be sometime before you get it under roof. Standard OSB will not hold up well when exposed to the elements.

[Tom]

I was going to ask when I go to Home Depot, if they had something that would stand up to the rain for a time. You saved me from looking like the green horn that I am.

Thanks Red.

Also to you Dug... I read through your project a few weeks ago. Your attention to detail has been an inspiration to me to not rush. I also know to buy an extra sheet of t&g because of your post.

Thanks guys!

[Squirl]

I can't tell.  Are you using 2x6's?  It looks like you have 1ft of overhang on each side.  That would make me guess you have a 10 ft span for your floor joist.  I used No. 2 SPF for the span calculation (because that is the most common at home depot) and came up with a maximum span of 8 ft @ 24 in on center.  I wouldn't recommend it.

Also.  It looks like you spliced your built up beams in a spot that is unsupported.  I'm not trying to be critical, just trying to pass along some pointers that have been pointed out to me.  Hope it helps.

[Tom]

FIRST... I don't hear anything as criticism. I appreciate your input. Without this site, I doubt that I'd be able to pull this off.

Yes, I used 2x6. The runners are doubled and where it's spliced, it's glued and screwed. Should I put a support under these spots?

Also correct on the 1 foot overhang with the 10 foot span. I had wondered about this as well and had already decided that I'm going to put concrete blocks under the center with a 4x4 to support the span. Thanks for pointing this out though.

Thanks

[Tom]

[Tom]

Ever see those Russian guys do that squat dance? Bet you're impressed that a broken down old fart like me can still pull this off, huh.

I'll fess up. The photo was strategically taken so you can hardly see the brick I'm sitting on.

The truth is, that I don't dance anymore. Th last time that I danced, I was tackled by a guy screaming, "Someone help me here... don't let him swallow his tongue". Apparently they thought I was having a convulsion 

My buddy helped me with the floor today. Couldn't have done this without him. I'm sure I'll be calling on him again. I told him that the second key would be his when the place is done.

[Tom]

I have a question...

I know that the sheeting is part of the structural integrity, but I'm also on a tight budget. Is 3/4 inch siding written in stone or could I go 1/2 inch. Also, what thickness for roof sheeting?

Thanks

[MountainDon]

I have a question...
..... or could I go 1/2 inch. Also, what thickness for roof sheeting?

Thanks

1/2 inch for where? Walls?  7/16 OSB or 1/2 plywood is pretty normal.   Roofs can be that as well. 5/8 roof sheathing is sturdier, but many build with the 7/16 or 1/2.

We used 7/16 OSB for both, 24" OC for the walls and 16" OC for the roof. For the porch roof which is exposed underneath we used 1/2 plywood as OSB is not rated for weather exposure.

[Redoverfarm]

Tom generally 1/2 or it's equal is used on walls both for exterior sheeting and drywall and 5/8" is for roof sheeting and ceiling drywall.  If you are going with 24OC I would not go any less with either.  The 5/8 for the roof will not sag between rafters as 1/2" has a tendency to do and give you a little more biting surface for shingles or screws for metal. 

[mountainmomma]

Ok, I debated as to whether or not to post this.  You all are going to think I'm nuts. However, if this helps someone then it's worth it.

When I first heard of water witching 25 years ago, I thought it was something invented for TV... something that only hillbillys  like Jed Clampett would believe. It was funnier yet when I heard how this all worked. The only reason why I even went along to watch this guy witch for water was because he was one of those quiet, never brag kind of men. It wasn't like him to spin a tall tale or to ever draw attention to himself. He had lived on a farm all of his life. In the 30 years that I've known him, I've never known him to lie.

He was helping out a guy at work (Jeff) who had a garden too far away from the house to bother with all that hose. Jeff had a separate pump for watering the vegetables. His well was drying up and so he asked Ed to find him water.

Ed took 2 pieces of coat hanger, each about 15 inches long. He bent them in the middle, into an "L" shape. Then he held them loosely in his hands (one in each hand) so that the wires were pointing straight out in front of him. He walked slowly around the garden until the wires both pointed inward. Ed said that he had found water.

Ed then took a standard hand saw with a wooden handle on it and knelt down over the spot holding the saw with both hands by the tip with his thumbs on top. He held it steady until the handle began to bob up and down (maybe an inch or so). He counted the "bobs" until it stopped. Each bob was 1 foot.

I laughed and told him that I wasn't going to fall for this and look like a fool at work when word got out that I suckered for it. Ed smiled and told me to ask Jeff how deep the water was when the well was sunk. 3 weeks later Jeff told me that Ed was right on the money and that he had asked for Ed's help because Ed has never been off by more than 1 foot.

If you doubt this, bend some wire and walk in your lawn. When the wires turn inward, you may not think I'm crazy. I can't tell you how this works, but it does.

Tom, when you hold the saw is it held more of less backwards so that you are holding the tip instead of the handle or is it flat like its lying on a table with the handle farthest from the dowser? I just gave it a try the later way and if it works, I may have water at only 8 or 9 feet deep.

[Tom]

Thank you for the info on siding.  I think I'll go with the 5/8 when I get to that point.

I managed to get a half of one wall put together today, but I was done in by time I was done and forgot to take a picture. I post when I can show some progress.

As for the question about water witching...

Take a standard size hand saw and hold it by the metal tip (handle away from you). Kneel down with the saw handle hovering about a foot off the ground. Hold it steady and still. It wil start to "bob". Each "bob" is one foot of depth. Yes, you would be holding it flat, as if it was lying on a table.

I'm not sure if you plan on going for the water at 9 feet, but if this would be for drinking, I'd find something deeper.

Hope this helps

[SouthernTier]

Take a standard size hand saw and hold it by the metal tip (handle away from you). Kneel down with the saw handle hovering about a foot off the ground. Hold it steady and still. It wil start to "bob". Each "bob" is one foot of depth.

So in canada, do you have to get a metric size saw so that each bob is one meter?

[Tom]

Made some headway this week

[Tom]

For those who work alone, I'd recommend the Jaw Horse. My wife bought me this for Christmas. I can't say enough good about it.

[Tom]

I have some cripple studs to put in yet, and two more walls to finish. Most of this stuff is pretty straight foward. The thing that keeps me awake at night is trying to picture in my mind the best way to construct the loft beams.

I've been going through several threads in here, trying to see how some of you have done this, but I can't seem to find anything that makes it clear. If anyone has some good pictures of how you did yours, I'd appreciate your ideas.

Thanks

[John Raabe]

If you have the Enchilada plans (Builder's Cottage) to work from I have a 4x8 @ 48" o/c loft framing w/ 2x6 T&G decking detail that you could adapt. This can also be done w/ double 2x8's. It is important to get a proper connection between the rafter and this deck beam/rafter tie as it triangulates the roof structure.

[glenn kangiser]

Cool tool, Tom.

I may have to check out the Jaw Horse myself.

[Tom]

I forgot to take the camera last time out. I have the loft joists in (not pictured here).
Michigan has been very wet this year. I've been hoping for a dry spell so that I can get the sheeting on, but no luck.
How much rain can strandboard take before it begins to swell?

Next question...
This will be a 12-12 pitch. I plan on running an 8 inch beam, but can I go with 6 inch rafter boards?

Thanks for looking in.

[Redoverfarm]

Tom if you are getting a great amount of rain I would consider giving it a coat of paint.  You are at the stage now where there is no place to drain the water (wall partitions up).  You might pay attention to any low spots in the floor where it will puddle and drill some drainage holes to keep it from pooling.  I always stress "Advantex" as I know how long it takes to do a project when you are working by yourself. It is a small price difference and for me it has already paid for itself. As far as a time frame I really couldn't say only that it will first swell and then start flaking off. 

Given the size I would say that you can get along with 2X6 as rafters although 2X8 would be a better choice.  The only downside is that there is little room in the rafter cavity for insulation.  Basicly you have 5-1/2".  Deduct 1" for the styrofoam vents and that leaves you with 4-1/2".  R-19 I believe is 6-1/4" and if you compress it into that space you will end up with around a R-16.  The only way to get the value higher is using solid styrofoam or sprayed foam. 

[Tom]

Thanks Red,
This is why I come here. Talk to me about 1 inch styro vents.

[Redoverfarm]

Tom I believe they are known as "raft-R-Mates" by Owens Corning. I can't get a seperate item picture but if you look at the home page below you will see them placed between the rafters. There are other manufacturers and usually cost about 75-90 cents a piece for a 4'X 24" piece. Pretty common where ever building products are sold. They can be seperated for a single width of 12" X 4' for 16 OC spacing. They are thin foam forms that are stappeled to the underside of the roof decking. They allow air to travel from the soffit to the ridge.  That is of course if you have plans on finishing the attic area to a loft room.  If not then you can use them in the area from the soffit to the top of your insulation in the attic.  It prevents the insulation from cutting off the air flow from the soffit to the ridge vent.  Hope it helps.

http://insulation.owenscorning.com/homeowners/

[dug]

How much rain can strandboard take before it begins to swell?

Based on my experience, one soaking is all it takes. Doesn't mean it's ruined though.

[Tom]

Thanks for your responses.
Do the kraft-R-mates come in 24 OC?