Need pics of stairs

[peteh2833]

I need some pictures of how everyone did their stairs. I'm trying to figure out the type, height, and placement of the stairs in my 20x30 1.5 story. Thanks Pete

[MountainDon]

I don't have pictures of my stairs because I haven't built them yet. They're only porch stairs so likely would not help a lot anyway.

Perhaps with a little more info some of us can help with the design? Are the stairs for your place a straight run or will there be a landing? What's the total rise from the bottom floor to the upper floor level. A diagram could help.

[MountainDon]

This might help... See page 32

[Ernest T. Bass]

Oh goody, an excuse to post pix.





This is a project we did a month or so ago for a friend who finished his basement. The pitch is a killer at nearly 45 degrees... But there wasn't enough headroom above the stairway to extend them out any further. We just added on to the existing stringers and threw on a winder for affect, basically... Not sure how practical it is, but it looks cool anyway.

[MountainDon]

What's the material on the treads Andrew? Anti skid something I assume.

I like the railing too.

[Ernest T. Bass]

I think he just put down some little mats to protect the wood until it's finished with something.

[PEG688]

Oh goody, an excuse to post pix.

  You never need a excuse to post photo's , let um fly 

Nice job on the stairs they look great !

[John_M]

This is what I did for my 18 x 32.  I had to fit the stairs between 4 x 12 beams centered @ 48".

[Ernest T. Bass]

Nice job on the stairs they look great !

Thanks, they were kind of a pain... I like John's method of orientating the tread stock on the winders. Much simpler than trying to cut 60 degree angles the steep way...

It was kind of an interesting situation, adding winders to an existing set of stringers.. Not too difficult to box in, but it took some figuring to end up with an evenly wide tread on each step along the line of travel...

[peteh2833]

My width woul be about 28"-32". The run would be about 10' and there will be a landing. I just have to watch the headroom to the floor joist. They will be like Jonh_M's.

John_M, what are the dimensions on you stairs? Rise, run how tall are the treads and how deep? How much room did you have to the bottom of your floor joist? Thanks Pete

[MountainDon]

My width would be about 28"-32".

No code obligations I suppose? 
Most codes require a 36" minimum width measured above the handrails.
Minimum headroom along the run of 6'8".
Max rise for the treads is 7 3/4"
Min tread depth 10", but needs a nosing, or 11" needs no nosing
Landings need to be a min of 36x36, IIRC.
A stairway with more than 4 steps requires at least one handrail.
There are other details about handrail sizes, heights.

If there's no code requirements or inspections to be followed one can build whatever they want. However, I do believe that stairways code numbers have been arrived at with some reasoning behind them. Tread depth and height for example, are most convenient and safe for most people if built with a rise of about 7 to 7.5 inches. Treads less deep than 10" or so are more difficult to navigate safely. This becomes more important as people age. And a 3 foot wide staircase makes it easier to move things up and down.

I just throw all that in in for the forum readers, so they know there's more to building safe stairs than may first be apparent.

[Native_NM]

Don, as always you make excellent points. 

Here is one more important tidbit:  sooner or later you might actually want to sell your place.  Just because you did not get it permitted when you built it does not mean that it won't have to meet code if you sell it to somebody who intends to finance it or insure it.  When we started this process, we called USAA mortgage about a vacation home loan.  They gave us a ton of information.  One thing that I remember is that they will not finance or insure a home that does not meet certain codes, regardless of how old the home is.  In other words, some old codes are grandfathered in, and some code will always have to be current. 

Some lenders and insurers are now focusing on a few important aspects of the code and require the home to meet that code BEFORE they will lend or insure.  Some national companies now have their own inspection teams.  In Texas, some insurers will not touch a home with aluminum wire.  Some lenders in Texas are now looking at mold issues.  Their risk is that the house, which is the collateral for the note, might end up being worth zero if there are serious mold issues.  If you are a homeowner and you find out your house has mold and its red-tagged by the health department, why would you spend $100 thousand to fix it when you could just walk across the block and buy a new one for not much more? 

While it might seem draconian, it makes sense.  The risk to the insurer is much greater if their insured is navigating a dangerous staircase or heating their home with a unsafe firebox. 

My point is that it always pays to take the extra effort and expense up front to do it right than to leave it until later where it will almost always cost more.  Luckily the plans sold here meet those codes and give a solid starting point for the home builder.

Cheers.

[peteh2833]

I only have 28" for an opening in the opening between the joists. Pete

[John_M]

I had an opening of 44" between my beams.

The bottoms of the beams are 8' from the floor and the decking is 9' from the floor.

I don't know my exact rise and run but I know it meets code.  It is just about the narrowest tread I could go with (run) and the tallest rise I could get.

Even the winders are code as well.  Minimum of a six inch width at the narrowest point.

I wanted to go steeper to save space, but I'm glad the code exists.  I want a safe stairway for my wife and son to walk down safely at night when using the bathroom.....

i still have to put up railings and all that good stuff!

[MountainDon]

Those look good John_M.