Started by SouthernTier, June 04, 2018, 07:23:01 PM
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Quote from: NathanS on June 06, 2018, 07:38:07 AM2) The spray foam unventilated ceiling. I live in a colder area than you, and did not fully research hot roofs, but there is a limit to where they work.. I was under the impression where I am it is probably too cold. The surface of your roof will be warm when snow is on it... if it is above 32F you could end up with some ice damming. A lot of this concern also goes away with it not being continuously heated all winter.
Quote from: SouthernTier on June 24, 2018, 01:41:58 PMThickness: I don't know how much help I will be getting for getting the roof sheathing up there. I plan on hauling the sheathing up to the loft, and then sending out the "holes" where the dormers are going (except of course, for the dormers' sheets themselves). Still, it will be a heavy lift, litterally. Table R503.2.1.1(1) seems to indicate I could go with 1/2-inch sheathing, even without edge support with my 24" spacing, and I may have some 1/2-inch panels left over from the wall sheathing. Nathan, I know you put 5/8" on even with 16" spacing, so I suspect the advice is go with 5/8".
QuoteMaterial: I am glad I am going with the zip system for the walls as I can't imagine trying to get tyvek up there by myself. For the roof, I am not sure. The advantage of going with zip for the roof is that it doesn't need the tar paper, but even if I go with the vents, I think at least one row of adhesive barrier would probably be needed. Does the zip system really obviate the need for tar paper?
QuoteNote, I am probably going to contract out the actual installation of the steel roof, mainly for safety concerns, and secondarily to make sure it is done right (although I have had zero problems with my shed's roof, but it was much smaller). There will probably be a delay between when I get the sheathing on and when the roofer shows up to install the roof. With this delay maybe it makes more sense to use the zip since I don't plan on putting the tar paper on myself, again due to safety concerns.If I don't go with zip, would plywood be a better choice than OSB if there is an interval between the sheathing and the roofing?Does the T&G zip cause those sheets to be 47.5" like the advantech flooring? That could be a probably with my system designed for multiples of 4'Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.
Quote from: NathanS on June 25, 2018, 11:33:09 AMGetting the sheathing up there was an awful job. I used C clamps as handles. I put all the sheathing on alone, instead of dormers I had one rafter bay spaced at 24" for the chimney. Slid it out with C clamps for handles, and also clamped stop blocks on the fascia so that the first course would automatically slide into position. I nailed in as much as I could from within the attic, then climbed out on top to finish it off. The T&G likely did shrink the 48" to 47.5", if that's an issue. Without T&G I think you will need to fiddle with H clips.. I really liked that for such an awkward one person job it was one less thing to worry about.Nothing wrong with going with the lightest stuff that is rated for 24" rafters.I found the sheathing to be a lot more work, and similarly dangerous, to installing the metal.
Quote from: NathanS on June 25, 2018, 11:33:09 AMI put on ice and water shield, in retrospect it was unnecessary. In my bulk order I had included it (had it on hand, and figured why not) because I thought the code required it, but I'm pretty certain it's only required for shingles.The ice and water shield was pretty grippy, but nothing is as easy to walk on as zip - a huge advantage. Also really easy to use the tape. And if you don't get the steel on this year, you can feel confident that tape can handle a NY winter... that is not true of any other waterproofing that I know of. If you were installing an unvented roof, I would probably say to use ice and water shield. Ice damming could put the nail holes under hydrostatic pressure which might actually leak.
Quote from: NathanS on June 25, 2018, 11:33:09 AMOne last thought, if you vent using furring strips on top the roof, you essentially are building a lattice, giant ladder, to crawl around on. What Mike 870 did except without the insulation. If you go that route, that would be pretty safe/comfortable in my opinion.Always wear a harness and make sure the slack is short enough that if you fall you will not drop over the eave.