Adding on to a deck

Started by stryped, May 09, 2007, 07:31:25 AM

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stryped

Hi. I currently have a 12x16 deck. Wife is wanting to make it bigger and I am thinking of somehow adding a covered area so we could eat at a table out of the sun/rain.

Any place I could get ideas on how to go about this? How would I ensure that the new deck/posts, etc is level with the old?

Thanks,

MountainDon

As far as your worry about making the new deck and the old end up with the surfaces perfectly flush my first thought is to not worry about it and make the newer portion one step or more higher. I've built a number of decks over the years for others and hardly ever built a single level deck. Too boring. Of course that leads to making quality staris, hand rails and so on.

When you say covered, do you mean just a roof, or are you thinking walls, screened windows areas, etc?


glenn-k

Lots of ways to level, but cheapest for that job would probably be just a good 4' level.  If desired - raise or lower it as Don suggested then level it from there.

stryped

QuoteAs far as your worry about making the new deck and the old end up with the surfaces perfectly flush my first thought is to not worry about it and make the newer portion one step or more higher. I've built a number of decks over the years for others and hardly ever built a single level deck. Too boring. Of course that leads to making quality staris, hand rails and so on.

When you say covered, do you mean just a roof, or are you thinking walls, screened windows areas, etc?

I mean just a covered portion to be able to sit and eat under without the sun or light rain beating on you in the afternoon.

I have a garage on one side the deck will be against, not sure of the multi level if it will work. My idea was to extend my current deck and come out with 4 posts for a 10x10 area where I could put a roof over it.

Will a water level work? How could I go about making one? I will have to extend my curent deck with very long ledger boards. How could i use a 4 foot level for that when th eboard may be 12 feet long?

John_C

Quote
Will a water level work? How could I go about making one? I will have to extend my curent deck with very long ledger boards. How could i use a 4 foot level for that when the board may be 12 feet long?


Ah .. water levels... more laborious to explain than to set up.

Get a piece of clear plastic tubing a few feet longer than the longest run you need to level. Try to find some tubing that doesn't go flat when not under pressure so the water can move freely.  set it up so one end of the tubing is 6" or so higher than your reference ht. at one end and secure that end in a way that doesn't crimp the tubing.  Run the other end out to the far end of the length you want to level and secure it approx location.  Fill the tube with water till it's up to your reference ht.  The far end will have risen to the same ht.  You need to read the miniscus.. the bottom of the concave shape the water will take in the tube.  Sometimes it helps to add a bit of color to the water,  a bit of blue or red water color paint from a child's water color set is fine although it may stain the tubing.  Once you set it up it will make more sense than the description.  It's really low tech but quite accurate.  I'm not sure that in todays world a laser level isn't cheaper than the tubing :(

Another method:
If your long boards are relatively straight set them up and put your 4' level on each at two or three places along their length. When you get them really close pull strings TIGHTLY across the diagonals.  If the framework lies in the same plane the strings will just touch.  If the strings are off you have a low or high corner(s).  If you have a flat plane and the level placed here and there shows it to be level it would be close enough for any deck I've ever seen unless, of course, you want some slope for drainage. BTW while you are doing this measure the diagonals. If they are equal, you have framed a square deck.  If not :-/

Moving along from the building methods of the ancients, it's why there are transits, builder's levels, laser levels, and friends.


stryped

Quote
Quote
Will a water level work? How could I go about making one? I will have to extend my curent deck with very long ledger boards. How could i use a 4 foot level for that when the board may be 12 feet long?


Ah .. water levels... more laborious to explain than to set up.

Get a piece of clear plastic tubing a few feet longer than the longest run you need to level. Try to find some tubing that doesn't go flat when not under pressure so the water can move freely.  set it up so one end of the tubing is 6" or so higher than your reference ht. at one end and secure that end in a way that doesn't crimp the tubing.  Run the other end out to the far end of the length you want to level and secure it approx location.  Fill the tube with water till it's up to your reference ht.  The far end will have risen to the same ht.  You need to read the miniscus.. the bottom of the concave shape the water will take in the tube.  Sometimes it helps to add a bit of color to the water,  a bit of blue or red water color paint from a child's water color set is fine although it may stain the tubing.  Once you set it up it will make more sense than the description.  It's really low tech but quite accurate.  I'm not sure that in todays world a laser level isn't cheaper than the tubing :(

Another method:
If your long boards are relatively straight set them up and put your 4' level on each at two or three places along their length. When you get them really close pull strings TIGHTLY across the diagonals.  If the framework lies in the same plane the strings will just touch.  If the strings are off you have a low or high corner(s).  If you have a flat plane and the level placed here and there shows it to be level it would be close enough for any deck I've ever seen unless, of course, you want some slope for drainage. BTW while you are doing this measure the diagonals. If they are equal, you have framed a square deck.  If not :-/

Moving along from the building methods of the ancients, it's why there are transits, builder's levels, laser levels, and friends.

How much and where can I get a good outdoor lazer level. I hav several indoor ones that you level with a buble and they never seem to be able to have a perfectly straight line.

John_C

The closest I've gotten to a laser level is fondling one at HD.  I have a builder's level/transit so I didn't pay attention to the price.  

MountainDon

For effective outdoor use I think you'd need to spend more than what you'd want for this one project. Water level works good. You could even get a fairly deluxe water level like I have, it has a device that beeps when the water has leveled out.

http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-58467-Electronic-Water-Level/dp/B0009YJB7U
http://www.amazon.com/ZIRCON-58468-Electronic-Water-Level/dp/B000A8SVPI
One reviewer is unhappy and downgrades the product without stating any reason. I've used mine for many projects over  15+ years. No problems.

Outdoor laser usually need a receptor device that sees the laser. Too bright outside for most unless you work at night.  :-/ :-
Some laser info here
http://www.countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1173932650

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

John_C

Don may have a winner there.

Don,  Are they the same unit sold by different vendors?  The Amazon descriptions seemed the same.


Another thought.  For as small as your project is could you use an indoor lazer lavel and shoot it during twilight?


MountainDon

#9
My guess is that the lower priced amazon vendor has used the wrong illustration.
Zircon's website shows 2 models
http://www.zircon.com/SellPages/LevelAndLaser/WL25/WL25.html
http://www.zircon.com/SellPages/LevelAndLaser/WL25pro/WL25pro.html
Ace hardware has the plain jane model 24.99 http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(3ut24zjbary2qb45wwxzjgrh)/productDetails.aspx?SKU=27178
and Grainger the deluxe for 50.45
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1613507960&ccitem=

I have an older standard style.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

About the smallest manual leveling rotary laser kit with sensor is a bit under $500 at HD.  I bought it.  
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

desdawg

The old transit /level on a tripod took two people. With the laser or the water level one person can work alone. I made a water level for use leveling mobile homes. When you are working under a house like that the laser isn't effective because the lasers line of sight is blocked in lots of areas. I used about a 12" piece of 3" ABS pipe for the water container with a cap glued on the bottom and a screw in plug on the top for filling. Then I drilled a small hole and screwed in a 3/8" fittiing to attach the hose to. The 3" pipe is mounted to a post so I can adjust it up or down to the appropriate height, roll out the hose and level away. For mobile home use I attached a magnet to the loose end of the hose so I could slap it on the I beam frame and free up my hands to operate the hydraulic jack. I set a 14' X 70' mobile home using this by myself. Look Ma, no hands and no helper. So both types of level have a purpose for which they are best suited.  
I have done so much with so little for so long that today I can do almost anything with absolutely nothing.

MountainDon

I can see a lot of uses for a good outdoor laser. I may still succumb and buy one, but so far I'm thinking of simply using the so far very reliable water level I bought. The one made Desdawg sounds like a good setup with the resevoir one one end. Better for repeated use than a simple length of tubing. I use a little food coloring in the system, so far it's not stained the tubing... maybe because I don't leave it filled all the time.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

Sounds good, desdawg.  Water level with genius attached. :)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


Amanda_931

Use the not-so-expensive laser level at night--or at least dawn and dusk?