Sole plate (not sill!) attachment for pier and beam...

Started by NM_Shooter, February 16, 2008, 10:09:08 PM

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NM_Shooter

I've only built on concrete stemwalls.

How do you secure the sill plate to the floor on a pier and beam construction? 

Thanks,

Frank

P.S.  No word on my offer yet
"Officium Vacuus Auctorita"

MountainDon

#1
My nailing chart states:   sole plate to joists or blocking, face nail    16D


There'll be a huge collective exhalation when you hear about your property offer.  c*


corrected a spelling error that snuck thru spellcheck... that was because it was a spellcheck and not a thoughtcheck.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


PEG688

 Why use a sill plate ? Nail the joist right to the beam.

If your worried about up lift put H-1's on each joist attached to the beam on the inside of the beam.
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

MountainDon

My interpretation of the question was how to secure the standing exterior wall to the floor unit... sheathing nailed to joists that are supported by the beams. I could be wrong.  Golly, no wonder I love pictures.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

PEG688

 Could be Mtn D but a sill plate is not a sole plate , a sill plate , generally , sits on the foundation wall , as he described it and as I know it.

He mentioned  concrete stem walls so I assumed he was talking about the sill plate , generally a 2x6 PT these days , that sits under the floor joist and is bolted to the concrete wall .

I guess he'll have to clear that up eh ??? 
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


MountainDon

Sole plate...  sill plate... amateur builders.... it gets confusing sometimes.  d*  I've seen places where the terms are used interchangeably.   ::) ??? >:(   

We'll see what Frank has to say.  :-[

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

PEG688


  Ya you got it , confusion some times reigns  ??? Most real builders don't know the right names or maybe I should say every area has a different "right" name  and / or  interchangeable names some times  d* so ya confusion  :-\ can be a player. I'm pretty old school detail oriented if you hadn't noticed.  ;)
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

MountainDon

Quote from: PEG688 on February 17, 2008, 12:29:14 AM

... old school detail oriented if you hadn't noticed.  ;)
And you should be proud of it. Too many of today's government high school graduates are not and don't seem to have been taught to worry about the details....  ... or know the basics of simple math... ...or....
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

MountainDon

I believe this would be proper nomenclature, but probably not proper building practice...

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


PEG688

 Ya right names , wrong way.

Here's a good cut view and nomenclature image ,


   

Of course they use just "sill"  instead of "sill plate"  and outside joist instead of "rim  joist" . The rim joist , as a unit , is called a box sill.

They also call one rim joist a head joist , which is wrong IMO. Yes if it where at the top of a stair you'd "head off" the stair well with , generally ,  a double  joist hung between two doubled up floor joist sort of like a header over a door or window with cripple joist  to allow for floor layout nailing etc .

Good God all that confusing , I'd think , this late at night d*   
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

PEG688

#10
 This is a better detail of a floor joist / platform framed building being built on a post and pier foundation system .

 

Nail schedule ,

Table 10    Nailing Schedule for Floor Framing
Joint Description                                              Number and Size of Common Nails   
Joist to Sill, Top Plate or Girder (toe-nailed)                   4- 8d per joist 
Bridging to Joist (toe-nailed)                                       2- 8d each end 
Blocking to Joist (toe-nailed)                                       2- 8d each end 
Blocking to Sill or Top Plate (toe-nailed)                        3- 16d each block 
Ledger Strip to Beam (face-nailed)                               3- 16d  each joist 
Joist on Ledger to Beam (toe-nailed)                            3- 8d per joist 
Band Joist to Joist (end-nailed)                                    3- 16d  per joist 
Band Joist to Sill or Top Plate (toe-nailed)                      3 - 8d

You can see inside where a H-1 could easily be placed to resist uplift ,

H-1

 



Edited to add : Notice they show a anti uplift strap , BUT THEY DON"T HAVE IT NAILED TO THE BEAM , which is bolted to the pier   d*   d*  Hoy vey  ::)

So they are holding the wall to the box sill , big deal. The wind would pick up the whole floor joist system , if it was strong enought and leave the beams sitting on the piers , house is still destroyed , but at least the beams are good  rofl rofl


What they do show right , but I'm sure they don't realize ,  ::) is the sheathing is one piece making it  a gusset tieing the wall to the box sill and more importantly the beam which is the solid connection to earth via the bolt to the pier. The metal strap is not needed , except to line Mr. Simpson's already deep pockets  ::)

Why the strap gets drawn wrong I don't know ? Lack of knowledge by the drafts person , maybe ??

I do know that engineers use straps because they can call one out and place it where they want it , the inspector can see it . The lapped properly sheathing is harder to control as most people will NOT look at the details , as well , DETAILS.  ::)

The lapped , properly ,  sheathing is,  IMO,  by far the best connection in this case.     
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

NM_Shooter

Wow!  What a bunch of response.  I love this forum.

OK.. I was using wrong terminology....Don guessed what I meant.  According to the diagram above, this would be a sole plate for the wall framing (base plate?)

I've always used concrete anchors to hold the walls to the slab.  How is this done for wood on wood attachment?

Thanks,

-f-
"Officium Vacuus Auctorita"

ScottA

I drove 16D nails thru the bottom plate and subfloor into the framing below. Where the wall crossed a joist I angled 2 nails into it close to the inside edge of the wall. I also ran the wall sheathing down so it is also nailed to the outside of the rim joist. I did this to prevent the wall from lifting off the floor.

PEG688



16 penny nails thru the sole plate into  into the floor joist tops preferred. Walls that run parallel to the joist should be screwed down , they seldom are , and when people wall along those walls squeaks generally can be heard as the subfloor flex's and rubs the nail shafts. Glue may help but it's no guarantee.   
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .