16 x 32 Western Maine mountains

[Jim C]

Hi, I have been reading this forum for quite some time now. I thought it was time to jump in and try and get as much help as I can! We are in the planning stages of building a cabin in the western mountains of Maine. We purchased 10 acres of land with an existing foundation, a walkout which is capped off and is useable as is, for now. We are 2 miles off the main road and access is by 4x4 only. Winter access is by snowmobile or snowshoes at this time. No electricity, water or septic. Existing outhouse with composting toilet suits us just fine! AS far as building the camp, I have never built a residential structure before. I am in the construction business and have been for a long time. I am familiar with how things work mostly, just not in a personal residential way. If it is a power plant i can build it!! I do have a lot of questions. I purchased the small house plans which the largest house is 14x28, my foundation is 16x32, I figured that expanding the size of the plans would be doable. Any suggestions on this matter would be greatly appreciated. I have plenty of questions but this is a good place to start. I will post pictures of what I have on the property as soon as I figure out how to do so. Thank You......Jim

[Jim C]

Started expanding on plans, 8 foot walls of 2x6 studs 16" o/c. Wondering if I should go 6' or 8' to the top of my ridge. Thinking 6' would be easier to handle since I will be doing most of the work myself. I believe 6' will still give me enough pitch with a metal roof to shed the snow. I am also considering wrapping the wall studs with tyvek house wrap and applying T-1-11 siding over that. Trying to keep all materials (lumber) under 12' long. Transport of material will be over 2mi on a class vi road via pickup only. Roof ridge and rafters 2x8 at 24" o/c.

[MountainDon]

That would still be a 9/12 pitch. More than enough for shedding snow off metal under most conditions.

Even if the 2x8 rafters would be sufficient for the expected loads you might want to think deeper for insulation purposes. There are a number of bilders who now wish they had used 2x12's for rafters. The ridge board is usually one size bigger to allow for full contact over the entire cut end of the rafter points. Or made with multiple 'boards.

You might want to consider sheathing the walls with OSB or similar to gain the extra resistance to wall racking. At least IMO, I believe it is worth it. Then cover that with weather resistant barrier and finally the cosmetic siding/finish. My reasoning is that when the T1-11 begins to deteriorate wall strength goes down. With sheathed walls protected by WR Barrier the chances of structural damage is reduced.

[Jim C]

Thanks, I have really been going back and forth over the wall sheathing. You make a great point concerning the OSB then wrap. it will be a much better build. I'm convinced. As far as my ridge board goes I am a little worried about having to install it in 2 or 3 different pieces, The total length of the board is looking to be 34', not really sure how to make that splice, I have ideas but would like to do it correctly. I am still thinking 2x8 rafters and now a 2x10 ridge board. Most of this build i will have to handle by myself....Thanks

[MountainDon]

The ridge board is there to act as a spacer for the rafter tips and as a nailer to facilitate fastening the rafters points in pairs. It used to be just a 1x. 

Use a scarf joint....



A plain one and a fancy one. Use the plain and simple one
Make it where the two rafters meet and are nailed.

[Don_P]

I just butt ridge sections together in the center of a bay between rafters and nail blocking as gussets in both sides of the ridge. In this case it would be 2-2x8's @22-1/2" long. This allows you to nail blocking to the ridge (dropped to allow for sheathing) and to nail the rafters to the blocks. Some folks cut a big point on one piece of ridge and a horizontal V on the other so they can put a nail at the top and bottom edges to hold it together >> A ridgeBOARD is only there to aid in construction and to give something nice to nail the rafters to. When you sheath the roof it holds the rafters in alignment.  A structural ridgeBEAM is a whole different beast, don't splice unless over a post there.

Sketching it out I got 12' 2x12 rafters to give a 12/12 pitch and ~7'6" to the peak with the right detailing. The overhangs can be 2x4's sistered to the rafters if 12' rafters are all you can get in to the site. We do this sometimes when bumping into long special order rafters. With racks on the full size truck I haul 16' often and if I strap my 16' ladders to the racks first I've hauled 24' lvl's and such.

[Jim C]

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I feel much better about splicing my ridge board. I do plan on putting racks on my truck inorder to move longer stock up to the site. I now have a rough lay out of what I am going to build. Time to put together a more formal layout and try to put a materials list together. Then a well thought out plan of getting the materials up to the land. I hope to get pics and sketches posted soon.

[Jim C]

Hi, well I finally was able to figure out how to post some pics, I think? This is the 16 x 32 walkout foundation that I recently purchased on 10 acres in Maine. My plan is to start building in June, mud season will prevent me from getting materials to the land until then. 74 inches of snow so far this winter! We have been up there just about every weekend since November, planning! I have cruised through Mtn Don's posts many times, my cabin will be approximately the same dimensions. I am planning on having a small (sleeping) loft approx 10 x16 and having the remainder of the cabin being open to the roof. The existing walls of the foundation were framed with rough cut 2 x 6 lumber with 1 x 10 boards nailed directly to the studs for the siding. I want to do my best to try and match what is already there. I am somewhat concerned with 1 x 10 siding boards attached directly to the studs. No sheathing, no wrap? As of today, I do change plans frequently, I am going with 8' walls, approx 4' to the ridge beam for a 6 pitch roof. Metal. I am also planning on a porch 5' wide 16' long over the existing sliding door. I would like a roof over the porch, the 8' walls concern me in the porch roof install, would like porch roof to be attached under main cabin eaves.  Any thoughts or advice will be certainly welcome! Thanks Jim

[Don_P]

If you hang the porch roof under 8' it will first drop the thickness of the rafters... say 7.5" then whatever the pitch was per foot times the span... say 4/12 x 5', 20" drop, then a carry beam under the rafters, say 8"... the bottom of the carry beam is about 3' below 8'... 5' off the porch floor.

Trusses or rafters that incorporate the porch roof into them in a monoslope would give more height in the loft.

[Jim C]

Thanks Don, i will have to figure on an alternative porch roof plan, possibly 10' walls or tying it in with my roof rafters like you said. The plan continues!

[speedfunk]

The current setup of the house seems like a very good stage one to get on your(anybodies) land in an quick efficient manor.   

Low ceilings will keep heat closer to floor.  Simple to insulated all round with 4" foam.   I like.  How does heat now? I see no insulation and a stove.   really curious as to how you would describe spending time in it when its nasty out?
Jeff

[Jim C]

We did get lucky as far as the land purchase went. A lot of the hard stuff has been done, lot cleared and foundation installed. It was never my intention to have a full basement under our cabin. But what the heck I'll take it! The place heats up pretty quick and stays warm, too warm at times. We go the 2 miles in by snowmobile and tow in all our food and water, and whatever else I can fit into the sled. We have an outhouse with a composting toilet. Got it all I suppose!
I am thinking lower ceilings heat wise. Once I get it weather tight I will not be in any hurry to insulate or finish the interior, we will pick at it over time. Still have 3 1/2 years till retirement!

[Jim C]

I have drawn up some sketches of the cabin. The north wall will be a 10 foot wall, the east, west and south walls will be 8 foot. All walls will be 2 x 6 24" on center. The roof ridge beam will be 2 foot off the center towards the 10 foot north wall. The south rafters will be approx 12 foot long 2 x8 24" on center. The north rafters approx 8 foot long 24" on center. Roof sheathing 1/2" ply or OSB , roof felt, finished with metal roof. Wall sheathing 1/2" OSB, builders felt and sided with 1 x 10 vertical boards. The interior will have a 10 x 16 loft, 2 x 8 16 on center rafters with a 1/2" ply floor. The north wall exterior will have a covered porch 6 x 16. That should keep me busy for most of the summer and fall. I will finish the interior hopefully over the winter, or as cash allows.

[Jim C]

Here are a couple of preliminary sketches, a way to go yet!

[Jim C]

Sorry about the orientation, I did turn them before I sent them out

[Jim C]

hi, i am looking for some rough cut lumber, framing and 1 x 10 boards. Bethel, Rumford Maine area. Thanks

[John_M]

I'm not from your area...I live in Western NY, but we have lots of ads for that kind of stuff on Craigslist.  Maybe try there if no lumber yards can help you?