Installing Stain Grade Prehung Interior Doors

[MountainDon]

When working with stain grade woods one problem I have had in the past is that wood filler applied to nail holes in unfinished wood leaves "filler smear". That is the filler is absorbed into the grain and though possibly invisible before staining, it invariably looks bad when stained.  I have some prehung interior wood doors to install. My thought is to stain the jambs and apply at least one clear coat before installing in the rough opening.

Part of this question is that it would be nice to be able to stain everything in the garage to avoid the oil stain stench inside the house. Winter cool weather makes it undesirable to leave windows open to disperse the smell.

However, I have concerns about removing the door from the jamb set before installing the door and jamb set. Does anyone have suggestions?

[akwoodchuck]

If you prefinish, there are wood finish putties you can color-match to the stain...they stay pliable and the excess easily wipes off with a rag. Widely used by cabinet installers...

[GaryT]

I've installed many of these over the years.  I'm sure you know how "wobbly" the jambs get without the door in place.  You can circumvent this somewhat by tacking a wood strip across the bottom of the jamb set on the side opposite the swing.  You can then take the door out.  You still have what can easily become a trapezoid as opposed to a rectangle, but it can be done.

I second the stainable putty suggested above.  Also used it many, many times.
Gary

[Dave Sparks]

Hey Don, I am going to think a bit more but we never do any oil base in the winter because the weather is too unpredictable and the 2 outdoor cats demand to be in the garage when it get's nasty. Too smelley!

I know the filler is usually a bit darker when stained. Maybe a sealer coat before you stain might help. Probably do a test run to see how it looks.

Thinking back, we just accepted the slight differences. The stained doors and window  frames look great to me 

[MountainDon]

For the time being, I have only one door I want to do. The other three can wait until next spring or summer.  I don't like the smell either, Dave. My thinking has been that the easiest way might be to install the door, unfinished, nail the jambs in as usual.  Stain the jambs in place after the unit is installed but take the door itself to the garage for staining. That way the largest piece, the door, it outside the living space and only the one set of jambs is inside. Maybe cover the door opening with plastic and leave the window open a bit... it is a small half bath.

After the stain is dry apply a couple of clear coats. Then fill the nail holes and stain the stain-able filler with a tiny brush. Then a final clear coat. Once the door is stained and clear coated bring it inside.

I have not been pleased with the assorted fillers, plain or colored, I have used in previous years when applied before staining / sealing the wood. There always seems to be a "smear" of filler that fills grain around the nail hole. Sanding does not get rid of it. That has been my experience. Maybe I am too fussy.

[Don_P]

Nah, it drives me nuts too. Most of what I do is clear so I like to seal then putty then top coat. The bugaboo there is the putty doesn't darken with age and the wood often does, at least with stain it should calm that down.

There have been a couple of design periods that used grain filling with a contrasting filler for effect. Oak has had both black and white grain fill for aesthetics. Dad and I were talking awhile back, I remembered an oak coffee table in black with white flecks of grain filler and asked about it. "Oh that was white lead paste." 

[MountainDon]

Not a great picture (phone camera, existing light) , but here's the door installed.



Staining the door was interesting. The stain soaked through the joints in a few spots and one knot. If we had not been staining both sides that would have been a disaster. The wood is alder.

[Dave Sparks]

Hard to beat birch and alder.  Looks really nice!