another cost question-Victorian

Started by matsuscha, June 16, 2005, 03:15:59 PM

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matsuscha

I think I posted this incorrectly the first time.. but..

Right now my focus seems to be on the 1 1/s story cottage w/loft vs the victorian cottage from this site.  
 
the charm of the vitorian w/the patio area would really fit what I see for my spot I've picked, but I think I would like to bump out the stove side wall to the dining area line.  Does anyone have any idea how much something like this would cost to get dryed in w/all but framing done by us? I mean excluding windows (I can price that) & sky lights (a pretty tall amount for this plan) My husband tells me one thing, but although an elect engineer, I know he's only build freestanding "workshops" & helped his father w/cottages DECADES ago -   so how do I begin developing my own opinion?  

Any/all help appreciated!

caroline

glenn-k

Hi Caroline,

You may want to get a copy of the plans you are interested in then study them inside and out until you can picture how they will go together in your head.  There is a free framing manual in our links section that would be good for you to print out and study.  When you are familiar with it you will be able to better develop your own opinions and express them.  

      
 :)


Amanda_931

One of the cheapest ways to learn how to build is to volunteer with Habitat for Humanity.

There should be at least one local group in your area.

But try to stay with the pounding nails part, not the meetings and approving families parts, if the experiences I had was typical--boring, took hours to arrange the next meeting time with ten people, all with their day-runners out.  I came close to screaming.

Also, they put out a book on building houses for amateurs.

matsuscha

I don't know why I didn't think of that!!  I know my husband did a couple years ago & loved the experience - I'll look into it today!

thanks! - It looks like I've found a great site to not feel embarressed in, & look forward to growing in.

caroline

DavidLeBlanc

For costing your house, as mentioned, the best way is to get a copy of the plans, enter the materials into a spreadsheet (free one at OpenOffice.org if you don't have Excell) and start calling and making notes. Use separate tabs for each phase of construction...


matsuscha

Thanks, David - my plans s/b here this week.  Definitley used to excel - from what I underdstand the VC doesn't come w/a materials list, so my only concern is that my husband gets it complete (of course, I cannot tell him that w/out a big fight!!)

jraabe

Yes, with many of the plans their are several choices that must be made (type of foundation, type of roofing system, etc.). These options will mean different materials will be used for the framing package.

Then the real costs come into play with the choices you make later. Things such as cabinets, counter-tops, floor coverings, light and plumbing fixtures. Each of these has ranges of choices from low cost to 10x the lower cost item.

Now wonder when people ask me "how much will it cost to build?" I know I'm stepping into a mine field.

Here is the basic outline information on estimating the cost of a project: http://www.countryplans.com/costs.html

DavidLeBlanc

You bring up an interesting and closely related question John: is there a reasonable rule of thumb on where the percentages of costs lie in house construction?

For example, does "weathering in" represent 25% of finished cost or...?

A good reason for knowing this is to get an idea of where one's sweat equity is best spent. I have a suspicion that finish work - painting, trim, cabinets, doors and the like - cost more than framing work, but I don't know for sure.

I know for a fact that I can put up insulation (itchy pink stuff) because I've done it. Labor savings! Pretty sure I can hang "rock". Maybe even cut trim and hang doors and cabinets. More labor savings, but is it expensive labor or cheap labor?

spinnm

John might give you a better answer since you're both in the same part of the country, but here we figure 1/3 for foundation and plumbing rough-in (we're slab so initial plumbing is higher).  Another 1/3 to get it totally finished on the exterior.  Last 1/3 for finishing.

Here you can't save a dime doing the insulation yourself.  The suppliers are the installers so they make sure of that.  Other choice is HD where the price is such that you might as well hire it done.

Drywall is very competitive.  You can still save money tho.  It becomes a question of time/vs $$.
Not big money, however.  So, what is your time worth? Takes a long time with two people.  Those 12' sheets are heavy.  8' sheets are still heavy and then require more taping.

Couple of ways to do it if the whole job doesn't appeal.  Hang it yourself and hire the pros to tape and texture.  Or, get it put up and do that plaster from American Clay yourself.

Finishing can save you big bucks.  Setting fixtures, trimming out electrical, finish carpentry.  Big money.


spinnm

So, I'm still thinking about this David.  Probably 'cause I'm rolling over things for my own project.

Won't call them conclusions.  Just thougts.

Nothing looks more amateurish than a DW texture job by someone who doesn't do it everyday...including me.  Contolling a hopper to get a uniform look requires practice that we don't get.

Ceilings are the worst.  Even with a dw lift.

Did you ever find out what Chapin used on those ceilings?  Looked like Homasote to me.  Never heard of anyone using it that way.

Some of the straw bale people use bamboo/reed panels nailed to the trusses.  That might look interesting in some situations.

1x T&G or 2x if there's a loft above and it's the flooring.  Maybe use those metal-web trusses that you see in commercial buildings instead of beams.  Painted some hot color.

American Tin Ceilings have a snap and lok panel that's meant to go straight into drywall with screws.  Could do a very sloppy job if you were using that.  Their traditional panel just requires nailers.

Another pic that we looked here recently appeared to be 4x8 sheets of fake beadboard with battens to hide the seam.  Don't care for that one myself.

Regular old galvanized, wavy profile metal roofing.. painted a fun color might be interesting in the right setting.

In our case, we're trying to think of something different.  We're a little bored with the normal coffee table book New Mexico ceiling.  Square beams or round vigas with decking on top.

One ceiling that we willdo is smallish, say 6" vigas (round, peeled logs....think Glenn's, but much smaller)with barrel-vaulted plaster in between.  Will take us forever.  Will save big $$.  Will have a lot of wow factor.

But, we're also going to vary the ceilings instead of having them all the same.  The house splits nicely into three separate sections.  Maybe that's too much variety.  Maybe not.

Anyone have any ideas that I can steal? :D

jraabe

Here are a couple of rules of thumb on costs that I've used for years.

• Houses are close to 50% materials and 50% labor.
• When you have a weather-tight lockable shell (no wiring, plumbing, insulation, cabinets, etc.) you are about 1/2 way done.

DavidLeBlanc

Does the "weather-tight lockable shell" include exterior finish or is it just sheathing?

matsuscha

John - I received my plans for the V/C today - thank you so much.  We also received the go on our "somewhat modest" amount of money today - and my 'builder half of this couple' returned to town - what a great day!  Only one question so far, we are going to make some slight mods - bumping out & mirroring..  You mentioned 3D home Architect (ver 3) - on the net I see
Mindscape 3D Home Architect Deluxe
(SKU: 28821A) Price range: $7.99 (OEM) - $8.95
Broderbund 3-D Home Architect 5 from $4.89  
Broderbund 3D Home Architect V5 DLX 98/2000/Me/XP from $29.95  
Broderbund 3-D Home Architect Deluxe V3.0 Single 1-Doc) from $5.50    

I assmume the higher # the ver = later/better? (not always the case) - is the  one you suggest even Broderbund?  

Thanks!  - Although not the smartest decision, we are starting right away - been planning to get 'slowly into it' - but been "planning' a long time w/no go - so now jumping!

Most important quesion - do I have a limited number of questions here before I'm out??   :-[..   !!thanks for all y'alls help!
 

jraabe

For our website info on 3DHA go here: http://www.countryplans.com/3dha/index.html. In this case older is better  :D.

For the above cost estimation, the shell project halfway mark would normally include siding, roofing and doors and windows.


DavidLeBlanc