Started by SouthernTier, June 04, 2018, 07:23:01 PM
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Quote from: Don_P on July 16, 2018, 09:36:26 PMSo yes I do agree with that part of the article, pay attention to your zone and be there, absolutely be there, with your straightend coathanger with tape at the agreed upon depth and thump their work often with it. If you can't afford to take a day off to be there I'd say you can't afford to risk it, go all foam.I think that was a rant
Quote from: NathanS on July 16, 2018, 09:38:38 PMI am not too familiar with rescheck, I wound up doing everything in excel. What an impact air tightness has... not to mention the importance of thermal bridging from studs and windows. U-factor is a better measure but I guess builders don't like decimals.
Quote from: NathanS on July 16, 2018, 09:38:38 PMI would think the assembly R-value of the flash+batt would be around 40, just batt around 35, and batt+2" of XPS 45 - cheaper than flash+batt but more work and time. The flash+batt would also be air tight. Ceiling air tightness is critical because of buoyant hot air.
Quote from: NathanS on July 16, 2018, 09:38:38 PMI have not had a good experience with Andersen windows. I have at least one that leaks some how, and when I pulled it to figure out what was going on, I leaned it upside down and water poured out of the miter joints. One of the few benefits of how slowly I've been building is that I've gotten to stair at rough sills for close to 2 years now.
Quote from: SouthernTier on November 11, 2018, 04:51:14 PMSeparate question: the "design for code compliance" guide for decks (https://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/dca/AWC-DCA62012-DeckGuide-1405.pdf) says that diagonal braces only go out the out-most posts, and are actually prohibited for the posts in the middle. Does anyone know the reason for this?
QuoteDiagonal bracing can contribute to the stiffness of the deck and, therefore, cause additional lateral loads on the posts. Since center posts receive more vertical load than corner posts, additional lateral load can cause overstress. For this reason, DCA 6 does not show the use of diagonal bracing on center posts.
Quote from: NathanS on November 11, 2018, 05:57:11 PMThe roof looks nice, I'm sure it's a relief to have that done. Based on October and November (so far) it seems like it's gonna be a damn cold winter.
Quote from: NathanS on November 11, 2018, 05:57:11 PMIf I understand the window question right, it sounds like ideally you would have brought the window buck extensions out another 3/4" installed the windows, flashed everything, then butt the 1x6 up against that?
Quote from: NathanS on November 11, 2018, 05:57:11 PMIf it was me, I would remove the 1x6, cut the foam back a bit, install the window, tape the window flange to the window extension, the tape extending all the way back and connecting to the zip wall, then I'd put the foam and furring strips back on.
Quote from: NathanS on November 11, 2018, 05:57:11 PMOn the dormers since I think you're talking about making the foam the water barrier, you could remove the 1x6, install the window, tape the flange to the foam.