Al and Robins 20x30 1 1/2 near Lake Eufaula, OK

[ajbremer]

Saturday Afternoon - July 21st, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

Finishing up my #30 felt on the south side.

I clamped 2 pieces of long skinny osb to each side of the ladder at the middle and it helped to steady it a lot. This scaffold type ladder that I've been using throughout my whole build had been awesome. It'll even fold up enough to fit in a car. It unfolds to about 20 feet.



Here's a picture of the place with the south side totally felted. I also put my first strip of drip edge on.

[ajbremer]

Wednesday Morning - July 25th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

Finished my felt and drip-edge on the south side and now onto the north side. Getting very close to purchasing my metal sheets. There are so many metal companies that sell sheets, I've been calling different ones now for days.

Here's a really good pdf file, a Metal Roof Guide.

One thing I noticed in it was where they talk about underlayment and that it should be the polymer because they will last so much longer than the #15/#30 felts.

Here's the link:

http://www.classicmetalroofs.com/docs/Insiders_Guide.pdf

[suburbancowboy]

When you get the metal make sure you get the matching screws at the same time.  Over estimate by twenty five percent.  You will drop a bunch of them.  Also get a couple of driver sockets for the screws.  I found the metal was easier to put on than the osb was.  Also make sure you have heavy metal gloves.  One slip and you can be out of the game for a couple of weeks for a cut to heal.

[ajbremer]

Wednesday Afternoon - July 25th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

I decided to make scaffolding on the unfinished side of my roof. I just have to add a couple more long 2x12's and then I'll also cover it up with scrap osb to make a semi-floor. I could even go so far as adding a few upright boards for a guard rail - it all makes me feel better up there.

What you see so far only took me a few hours and left over 2x4's. I made sure they were level while nailing them to the window and door jacks. I remember Don_P mentioning a little bit about this so I took his advise. I braced it by screwing the angle 2x4's up at the top and nailing them at the bottom. I had a left over 34 foot long 2x8 and I used that up at the top and out at the edge.

I feel way better up there with that platform right below the roof line. I'll go ahead and do this to the other side since I have to put the metal up there also.

Here's the pics:

[Redoverfarm]

AL you could continue the same practice at the ends of what you have.  Just temporarily attach to the studs on the gable ends of house using the same configuration that you used on the front.  As it is now sort of reminds me of a diving board.   ;)It will allow you to work out farther close to the corners.

I believe you stated previously that you were going to have the metal roofing company install your metal roof.  But you also said previously you were going with shingles. If you do decide to install your own here is a few things that will make it a little simpler.

Most people put way too many screws in the roof.  They are doubling their chances for leaks.  The screws go in the valley's not the peaks.  On the bottom edge I place a screw in each of the valleys adjacent to the peaks about 2-3" up from the drip edge(wind protection).  On the area between the eve and the ridge I measure about every 36-42" for a horizontal row where the screws will be and mark the location to be drilled. I use a Drywall square ( will reach the entire width).  That measurement depends on the distance or run of the metal. You can adjust that evenly so that the same space appears uniform between the row.  On that interm space I place one screw in the valley adjacent to the peak and one in the middle valley.    I pre-drill all of my holes at that specific location(horizontal run) on each sheet.  Yes Yes Yes some say that they will self tap.  That is not always the case with painted metal. You end up with scratches and a not so neat hole that water will penetrate and it will rust at the scratches.  It is so much easier to start the screw and get a good verticle plane on the screw.  On the top row (Actually under the ridge) you do not need to put but a few screws just to hold in place.  You will put additional screws which will penetrate that sheet from the attachment of the ridge cap/vent.

I have seen some (even on this forum) apply the screws in rows( every 12") and even every indentation in hte sheet including the ridges.  Too many screws will destort the metal and double if not tripple your chances for failure with leaks.  When embedding the screws just draw down enough to slightly bulge the washer.  You cannot rely on torx adjustment of drills and drivers because OSB has varing density and what is right for one area will either over draw or under draw at others.  Low speed on the drivers helps to regulate the accuracy.  With pre-drilling they go in effortlessly into the OSB. 

Yes you can but you can also do it where it is efficent and looks good as well.

[ajbremer]

Thanks for the great comments Redoverfarm.

Yes, I am going with 26 gauge green metal and yes I am doing it myself, thus the need for the scafolding. I know that I need one more support at each end of my new scafolding, I'll get to that tomorrow.

I will continue to reread what you have in order for it to sink in. Thanks again Redoverfarm.

[new land owner]

I'll bet your happy to be getting to roof on.  It is a good felling once your project is dried in.

[ajbremer]

Ya, that's for sure 'new land owner'.

Thanks for your post!

[ajbremer]

Thursday - July 26th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

Put the end supports on and began to put some scrap osb down.

Like I've mentioned earlier, I feel much better with this platform below me while I'm up there on the roof.
Also, working on those rafter ends and the bottom portion of the osb seems like a breeze while standing up
there (but not to strong of one).

All of this has taken me probably about 5 total hours, I think it's worth it.

Here's pics:
(2 more pics coming soon)

[CjAl]

so what do you think the odds are of you being able to grab that board as your slidding down the roof? 

im thinking 40% 

[UK4X4]

Al's done the hard part - just the metal to go- ladder hooked over the apex and the walk way,
I'd say the 5 hours was worth it
certainly going to be easy to do the facia and sofit !

[ajbremer]

Friday Afternoon - July 27th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

Finally done with the scaffolding on the north side. I even put up a guard rail made out of two 20' long chain link fence top posts. Now I'll start to put the toe boards and roof brackets up there and then I'll felt it.

Here's pics:
(4 pics coming soon)

[ajbremer]

Saturday - July 28th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

I've added a little bit more to the platform such as a middle height guardrail and I also locked the ladder
in place with some small boards.

I've started to attach the roof brackets and boards for me to stand on while I felt it. I can already tell
that things are going much faster than the other side without the platform. No more moving ladders all the
time and stuff. The platform is worth it!
(pic coming soon)


I have a small window question: I bought this window off of someone from work. It's not a new construction window
and I was wondering if I need to buy some kind of window framing before I put it into the opening OR do I just
put it in as is and caulk around it. From the looks of it, that's what the last person did. Here's the pic:
(Pic coming soon)

[ajbremer]

Monday - July 30th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

Getting more and more done on the back side:
(Pic coming soon)

[ajbremer]

Wednesday - August 1st, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

Someone suggested 'another' metal place for me to get a quote from for my metal roof and I like their
knowledge and prices. They said the same number of sheets as others (12 per side / 24 total) but he
also went over the in's and out's much more than other people. I was talking to the owner of the place and
I could tell that he really knew his stuff and he was patient and very helpful. The owner is the one who does the
quotes at this place and calls back the customer, I like that as opposed to secretaries who are the only ones
who talk to you.

Anyway, some of the things he said was that the metal should stick out beyond the eave edge 2". They
also quoted me for drip edge that's the same color as the roofing metal (green). He also quoted me for
16" wide ridge cap/vent and quoted me to use that versa-vent stuff. He mentioned that I should use the
bubblewrap insulation and that it did great for his business shop of his. He said that if I used the bubble
wrap on top of the #30 felt and under the metal, it would cool my inside 20 degrees less in this hot weather.
The bubble wrap price was $300 so the whole quote, rake trim, screws and all, came out to be $1,800.

I told him that I planned on doing it myself but I've been thinking lately that it wouldn't hurt to get a quote
from a reputable metal roof installer who has done it many years and does it for a living. He gave me the
number to a guy right away and I called him for a quote. So I called the installer and talked to him and I
told him my place was pretty high off the ground and also a 12:12 pitch. He said he'd do my roof
for $1,200. He asked me a bunch of questions of course and he seems like a real nice guy to do business
with.

When I told him about my ridge vent opening up at the top he asked me about the ridge cap dimension that was
quoted to me by the metal guy. I told him that the metal guy quoted me for a 16" wide one. The installer
mentioned that I should go with a minimum of 18" for the 12:12 pitch and that a 20" would be the best. He
said those bigger dimensioned ones look a lot better way up there.

So all in all, to get my metal roof and have a pro put it on will cost me $3000. Is that about average
for a countryplan 20x30?

[suburbancowboy]

That is about what I payed for my 20X36.  If you can afford to have the installer put on your metal do it.  Me and my step son put ours on cause I couldn't find anybody that would install for anything close to the price you quoted.  That was by far the scariest part of the build.  Plus with the heat down there it will be worth it.  Plus this way you can get a start on electrical or siding.  By the way have you got any quotes on your log siding yet?

[ajbremer]

Friday - August 3rd, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

Got the rest of the osb put on the north side and also layed down another row of felt.

Two more rows of felt and then wait for the metal. While waiting, I'll begin to frame the
gable ends. (I have to get rid of that nasty wood pile)
(2 pics coming soon)

[rick91351]

Don't know 'bout movin' da' wood pile Al might break your fall before da' ground.



rlr

[ajbremer]

Believe me Rick, I've thought of that already.

A lot of things run through your mind when your up on a 12:12!

Thanks for the post.

[CjAl]

do you have any pictures of you standing up in the loft area? i am curiouse to see how much room there is. i keep trying to lessen the roof pitch but i am affraid of loosing too much space. i would like to go down to a 8/12 but thats loosing like 40"

[ajbremer]

Hey CjAl - good to hear from ya again.

Here's a couple pics of the loft area before it's framed. No one standing there but there's
a chair there and that should give you a good perception of things. The other picture has
a desk there...

[CjAl]

thanks Al, i am still kicking around the idea of a shallower pitch with a large shed dormer off the rear of the house.for more usable room. not sure yet. complicating the roof lines increases the roofing price.

how low are your loft floor joists? i will have open joist bays so i may lower the ceilings as much as possible.  mabey 6'6" at low side of joists with the top of the bay being about 7'2" would make a ceiling fan a bit dangerous though.

[ajbremer]

Saturday - August 4th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

I put house wrap on top of the vent space at the very top so that rain won't get in.
(4 pics coming soon)


Finished all the osb and put all of the #30 felt on that I had left:

[JavaMan]

I sure am glad to see I'm not the only one with a "wood pile" in front of my build. 

Looks great, Al!  I envy you getting your felt on.  I'm still trying to get the trusses up!

[ajbremer]

Monday Night - August 6th, 2012 Mid-Oklahoma

Thanks for the post JavaMan - great to see you again.

We moved our RV out of the back woods and up in front and to the side of the build. It was a hassle
being in the woods - now it's in the open. Only problem is that it's in the sun much more now.



I'm excited about some good log siding I've found near me. I guy has his own planner and I have a 6 foot
sample that's been given to me. He only charges .85 cents a foot for it. I'm going to go see him tomorrow hopefully.

Here's some pics of the 6 foot sample that was given to me:
(2 pics coming soon)