22x36 plan critique

Started by Alan Gage, January 16, 2011, 09:45:02 AM

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Alan Gage

Looking to build in the spring (northern Iowa) and have been trying to come up with a design I'm happy with. So far this is it:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7935459@N05/sets/72157625831700590/with/5357901785/

Trying to maximize views to the south (entryway side) and east (deck side). Neighboring property to the north and blacktop runs in front of the property on the west. Looks like spanning the 22' shouldn't be a problem for I-joists without using beams or load bearing walls.

Will just be me living there for now but any future additions would be to the north so the closet between the bedroom and bathroom would be turned into a hallway.

I'm hoping to do as much as possible myself. Cost and simplicity of build are certainly big factors but I'd like to add some nice touches. I'm mainly concerned with the floor plan at this point. All the finish details (siding, roof, floors, paint, etc...) are the program defaults, I'll worry about them later.

Also plan on a roof over the outside entry door and possibly turning the roof over the deck into a shed style that spans the entire length of the house (for a dry place to stack wood).

Basement will be PWF (excellent soil for it). Will also be getting a price on SIPs for the basement and exterior walls so might go that route.

Any critiques/advice would be more than welcome.

One change I've made not reflected in the link above is changing the hallway between the bedroom and bathroom. Now there is a 2ft. closet at the end of the hallway and the other 4.5' is another bedroom closet.

Thanks,

Alan

Erin

No input from me (other than to suggest passive solar since you're already orienting to the south.  You might check into glazing to floor space ratios).

I just want to know what program you used for your designs!  lol
The wise woman builds her own house... Proverbs 14:1


cbc58

my initial response is that i don't see any kitchen/dining table area.  i know you have an eating counter but a seperate sitting area might be worth looking into. 

Erin

I lied.  I just hadn't looked long enough.  
I have several thoughts!  lol

#1  The closet at the top of the stairs takes up a lot of space and is in a strange location where it cuts off the kitchen bar (dining?) area.  Do you really need it?

#2.  I would have less bathroom and more kitchen.  (But bear in mind, I'm working from the standpoint of a mom with a family to feed)

#3.  If it's a primary heat source, I'd put my stove against that interior stub wall by your stairs.  You should always locate a wood stove in a central location when possible.  

#4.  22 feet wide...  I'm too lazy to look up a span table right now.  
Does this mean you'll have to use a mid-line carrying beam under your floor joists?  I have this idea in the back of my head that that's why John's plans are all 20' wide.  To avoid that beam...
But I could easily be wrong.   It's been known to happen. 
The wise woman builds her own house... Proverbs 14:1

Alan Gage

Thanks for the ideas!

I'm not too worried about a dining room table. The last house I owned that had one it was nothing but a repository for junk. I think if the desk was taken out there would probably be room for a small one between the bedroom wall and the living room furniture.

The closet at the top of the stairs isn't really a necessity. There was just a hole there so I figured I'd plug it. It would be a nice place for coats, shoes, mittens, etc... It could also be replaced with a cabinet that would take up less space.

About kitchen size, I've wondered about that. Some sources say you need 5' minimum between counters (I have 4') and others have said 40" with one person and 48" for two people in a kitchen. I could easily take a foot or two off the bathroom, which I tried in an earlier plan, but then the open end of the "U" exits right into the bedroom wall, which I thought looked strange and would make the already small kitchen feel more closed in. If I removed (or shrunk) the closet at the top of the stairs I could move it a foot that way. I've been measuring peoples kitchens and trying to imagine the 4' space. It feels fine as long as it's imaginary, maybe more claustrophobic in real life?

Any thoughts about the cook stove being where it is rather than against a wall? I think about swapping positions with the sink but I don't see how I could keep that wall window clean with a stove under it. I'd hate to loose that window.

The wood stove is my only source of heat and it's been twisting my tail as far as location goes. I'd originally planned on putting it against the bedroom wall so that the heat from the rear was hitting an interior wall. Safety clearances weren't a problem but by the time I moved furniture far enough away so it wouldn't be uncomfortably warm to sit there it took up almost the whole wall. To arrange the furniture how I wanted it also left me with my back to the stove and since I don't have a TV the flame from the glass door is my entertainment most evenings (it's a really exciting life).

The corner where it is now works out perfect except that, as you say, it's at the far extreme of one end of the house, and it's going to lose heat through the windows and exterior wall. I'd like the furniture set up so that anywhere you sit has great views out the south and east windows. If I put the stove against the wall by the stairs I'd probably need to move a couch up against the windows on the east side, which I don't want to do for a few reasons.

My hope is that with a new house that's very well insulated and very tight the stove won't have any problems keeping up. I don't mind, and actually prefer, the bedroom be a bit cooler. I'm actually worried about it being too hot so the heat loss through the windows might be a bonus.The same stove is heating a poorly insulated and drafty double wide now and it does fine until it gets to about -10 F or really windy with single digit temps. It's a bit more centrally located in the trailer but the trailer is longer so it's just as far to the bathroom from the stove.

I used Home Architect Home Designer Pro v.10 for the layout. I didn't really want to spend that much on a program but I liked that it seemed to over more manual control and figured $500 was gonna be a drop in the bucket by the time I got done building. I've had it a week now and have really enjoyed playing with it. Easy to get started but there is still so much to learn to get real control.

Thanks for the ideas and keep them coming! I hope to do some real work (canoe building) this afternoon and will try to tweak the layout this evening.

Oh, as for the 22' span. I don't have the tables in front of me but I believe a 14" PRI-40 I-Joist is rated for 22'@16"OC. Was thinking of going a little beefier, maybe to 16", to keep the floor stiffer than what minimum code would probably be.

Alan


paul s

I know what my dad would say, make it 20 or 24' and save a lot o cutting!!!

Erin

Yet another reason 22' struck me odd. 
I was thinking standard, dimensional lumber.  But of course with i-joists you have a lot more flexibility.  And no support posts in the basement!   ;D  paul's right, though.  It's easier to build a structure that is based on 4' increments. 

QuoteIt would be a nice place for coats, shoes, mittens, etc... It could also be replaced with a cabinet that would take up less space.
That would be MY vote...  Even a couple of shelves on the wall and several coat hooks.  I just wouldn't waste space with a non-essential closet.  In additional to an unfinished (I assume?) basement, you already have two fairly good sized closets.  And could probably put a little more in the bathroom. 
You're probably right about that, btw.  You don't want to send your kitchen further down the hall...

So far as a dining room table...  Do you have a space for a table at all?  I realize you're just batch'n now, but that'd still be something you might want to make sure you have room for.

The actual workspace in your kitchen is probably ok.  I one lived in a house where the "U" had 6' between the legs and it was too big to work efficiently.  (But it wasn't big enough for an island.  lol)  But I think less than 4' would feel a little crowded...  So you're probably right on the money.   No, I was just trying to see where you're going to put a table... 

And your cook stove.  Mine is set up the exact same way.
I wouldn't put it under the window for two reasons-- Number one, you need a vent and it would have to be right above your window.  The way you have it now, you could just put one of those hangy-down ones directly above it and still not really restrict the openess. 
And number two, I saw a fire-prevention movie when I was in the fourth grade where the curtains on the window that the stove was beneath, caught fire. 
It has stuck in my head ever since that if I ever have a stove that's beneath the window, I can never put curtains in that window.   ;)
The wise woman builds her own house... Proverbs 14:1

lobster

how about:

1) rotate the "U" kitchen 90 degrees so the opening of the "U" - to enter the kitchen aisle - is facing the stairs. this will probably gain you some countertop length. retain the closet by the stairs - it makes a good place to hang raincoats, etc. on entry - or could be used as a pantry if not. put fridge next to that closet. keep the sink on the outer wall and make one wider window over it (rather than 2 smaller windows on that wall - that saves money.) have the stove on the side of the "U" closest to the living room, so while cooking, the chef is facing people relaxing in the living room. similarly, people sitting at the countertop and eating will be facing the large window above the sink to look out. the eating countertop can also be extend around the corner i.e. add an additional overhang on the stairs side, so it can be used as a small desk, or as add'l eating area.

2) the countertop eating area appears to be at the same height as the stove in your 3D renderings. that makes it higher than an ordinary table and will require stools to sit and eat. another possibility is to have it separated from the stove area and lower - at normal table height. if you go that route, then an additional possibility is to have a small "backsplash" wall - say 6" - between the stove height countertop and the lower eating countertop, and this wall will serve to hide any mess on the stove countertop from view from the livingroom.

2) if, as you say, the "hall" between bedroom & bathroom is a closet for the bedroom for now, then eliminate the other bedroom closet to save money. it can be built as shown later, if the hallway is ever needed.

3) i have 43" aisle from countertop lip to countertop lip in my "U" kitchen - it is perfectly adequate.

MountainDon

What, if any restrictions will the project be subject to? Building permits, energy code compliance and the like?

Even if you do not have to meet energy codes it might be instructive to run the parameters of the design through ResCheck. It can give you an idea of how the windows "cost" in terms of heat gain and loss when compared to walls.
ResCheck Download

Another useful page lists recommended insulation values for different climate zones on a state and county basis.

Even if you are heating with free wood, someone has to cut, split and stack it, and that someone is likely you.

Another thought along the heating theme. What is the other heating source? The one that will kick in when you are absent for unforeseen reasons. The one that the insurance company will want to see if they are expected to cover any future losses from frozen pipes.

The closet that would become a hall if there was an addition seems too long to be useful. I'd have stuff buried back there. Not sure what to suggest though.

I like the idea of turning the kitchen and having a longer counter against the exterior wall with one window.

The wood stove, if the source of heat would be better if i the desk area towards the center.
Bedroom. The space for a dresser and the dresser itself could be eliminated. The closet could be full length of the wall and shelving to hold the drawer contents installed.


I wouldn't worry too much about 22 foot vs 24 foot. Using I-joists and their cousins solves that issue. If the plan you come up with works at 22 feet, so be it. As for material "waste" it seems that I used a lot of the cut off pieces of everything for something. Save everything until the build is over. Then make kindling.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


poppy

 w* to the forum Alan.  That's some program you have there.  [cool]

Here are some random thoughts.

1.  Why a half out of the ground basement?  Window wells can be made to work for light.  It would make the entry straight in to the main floor.  A split entrance/stairway just seems very inefficient.  Or if the elevation is necessary, why not put in steps outside the entry?

2.  I don't understand having the entrance on the south side around the corner from the road.   I would think that you would want that whole south side to be windows.

3.  What about an entry on the west wall between the kitchen and living rooms.  Try putting the basement stairs between the kitchen and bath or maybe where the desk is now.

4.  Seems to me that a good location for the desk would be in the SW or SE corner. 

5.  You could move the stove to near the center of the south wall.  It would heat better and the Class A chimmney would be shorter and save you money.

I agree with others on the distance between kitchen counters.  Like Erin, my current kitchen has 6' which is too small for a table or island but bigger than it needs to be for 2 people.  I always considered 4' to be a good space.

Alan Gage

Wow, great questions and suggestions! Once I come up with some sort of plan I have a hard time looking at it with fresh eyes. You've made me stop and think.

Here are answers to some of the questions. I wish I could keep it short but that's usually not my style. Apologies in advance.

QuoteSo far as a dining room table...  Do you have a space for a table at all?

I looked and if the desk were to be taken out of the picture there is room between the couch and bedroom wall that would fit a small table and 4 chairs. It was also suggested by someone else that if I did away with that closet at the top of the stairs there would be room for a small table and a couple chairs there. You're right about looking ahead to future uses. I'm not going to kill myself making room for a dining room but it's good to know there is some space.

Quoterotate the "U" kitchen 90 degrees so the opening of the "U" - to enter the kitchen aisle - is facing the stairs. this will probably gain you some countertop length.  put fridge next to that closet. keep the sink on the outer wall

This was my original plan when I started designing but I'd really like the keep the eating counter in the kitchen and if the "U" is rotated in that manner it sticks out into the hallway space. I'll try revisiting it again and see if I can work something out. Maybe I can come up with something that eliminates the potential hallway but is still conducive to an addition.

Quoteif, as you say, the "hall" between bedroom & bathroom is a closet for the bedroom for now, then eliminate the other bedroom closet to save money. it can be built as shown later, if the hallway is ever needed.

Great idea, the thought never occurred to me. I'll keep that option open, though the extra bedroom storage could also be used for camping gear instead of sticking it in the basement. I honestly don't know what I'd do with the extra space in the bedroom if I didn't build the closet now. The desk could be put there but I don't think I'd use it much in that case. I'd rather it was in the main living area near a nice window.

Quotethe countertop eating area appears to be at the same height as the stove in your 3D renderings. that makes it higher than an ordinary table and will require stools to sit and eat.

I'd actually planned on making it about 8" higher than the regular counter top so it would be comfortable to stand at as well. I haven't gotten as far as raising it in the plans yet.

QuoteWhat, if any restrictions will the project be subject to? Building permits, energy code compliance and the like?

That's a great question and something I've been meaning to check into. As far as I know things are pretty lax around here. It's a rural area and I don't ever recall hearing anyone complain about restrictions when building, so I can only assume there aren't a whole lot. :)

Thanks for the link to Rescheck, I'll be sure to take a look at it when I find myself at a faster internet connection.

QuoteThe closet that would become a hall if there was an addition seems too long to be useful. I'd have stuff buried back there. Not sure what to suggest though.

Yes, I can see myself doing the same thing. I've modified the plans so the 4.5' to the back of that closet is accessed from the bedroom instead.

QuoteThe space for a dresser and the dresser itself could be eliminated. The closet could be full length of the wall and shelving to hold the drawer contents installed.

Duh! That makes sense.

QuoteAnother thought along the heating theme. What is the other heating source? The one that will kick in when you are absent for unforeseen reasons. The one that the insurance company will want to see if they are expected to cover any future losses from frozen pipes.

Yes, I've been thinking about that a bit lately. Any suggestions would be welcome. I'm quite content heating only with wood (I like the cutting and splitting, don't care for the stacking) but it would be nice not to have to shut off the water and drain the pipes when I take a trip in the winter, which is what I do now. I was thinking something propane based in the basement set to a low temp. (45?) would certainly keep pipes from freezing down there (basement walls will be at least r-19) and the house would hopefully be tight enough to keep it above freezing on the main level as well. I haven't checked into anything yet. It would also let me warm up the basement when I wanted to work down there.

QuoteWhy a half out of the ground basement?  Window wells can be made to work for light.  It would make the entry straight in to the main floor.  A split entrance/stairway just seems very inefficient.  Or if the elevation is necessary, why not put in steps outside the entry?

That made me stop and think just what my original reasons were. After mulling it over for a while here they are:

Less basement in the ground means less excavation and less backfill with crushed rock (wood foundation). With less than 60" or less in the ground I could get by with 1/2" rather than 3/4" plywood sheathing, though I'd probably still go with 3/4" for fudge factor. I've never lived in a house with window wells but in my mind I think they'd fill up with snow in the winter, turning to water and ice during freeze/thaw cycles. I have lived in houses with very small basement windows and I was much happier with the large basement windows in other houses I've lived/been in. I figured if any kids magically appeared in the future their bedrooms would go in the basement, which means egress windows. I can't imagine a window well full of snow being escapable in an emergency. I realize at the elevation I'm at now some sort of window well would be needed for egress but it wouldn't be much. Plus I'd just like to be able to see out the windows when I'm in the basement rather than looking into a window well. That and the better views out the main floor windows and deck being up a little higher.

Another reason for me raising it was to cut the horizontal run of the basement stairway. It was killing me trying to find room for them! One of the last houses I lived in I had to cut a piece of plywood in half before I could take it downstairs and after recently helping a friend move a pool table out of his basement when the stairway ended only 3-4' before the wall I decided I wanted a fairly straight shot through the outside door and plenty of room at the bottom landing. I do some boat building and would like to be able to get an 18' canoe into/out of the basement. The main door entrance being 4' below main level cuts over 6' off the horizontal run of the stairs and means I don't need to cut out as much of the main living space.

The reason I don't have the steps outside the house is snow and ice in the winter.

QuoteI don't understand having the entrance on the south side around the corner from the road.   I would think that you would want that whole south side to be windows.

My property is fairly protected to the north but usually the winter wind is coming from the w/nw so the west side of my house usually has a lot of snow against it. The entrance to my current house is in the same location as the plans and usually stays blown clean of snow, rarely does it get snowed shut.

QuoteWhat about an entry on the west wall between the kitchen and living rooms.  Try putting the basement stairs between the kitchen and bath or maybe where the desk is now.

I've played with that but have never been able to come up with anything I was happy with. Like I said earlier, I think the south entrance would work best for winter weather but I'm open to anything. I'm sure I'll try this layout again.

Bayview - Thanks for the extra effort of drawing out an alternative floor plan! I like some of the changes and will be giving them a try. I agree that the landing seems a bit small and like the idea of eliminating the window for a place to hang coats, etc.

As for future expansion to the west. I've thought about that but am pretty set on keeping future additions to the north. My front yard (west) doesn't interest me much as a county blacktop runs by. My backyard (west) and to the south interest me very much though. I live on only 1 acre (building in the NW corner) but to the east and south of my property is 200+ acres of public state ground that sees very little use even during hunting season. Much of my yard to the east and south have been planted to native prairie. That's why I'm keen on keeping my views in those directions.

I've thought it would be nice to set the house further back away from the blacktop to cut down on road noise but then I'd lose backyard and gain front yard, which I certainly don't want. Instead I plan on staying close to the minimum front yard set back (50') to keep as much of my backyard as I can. There just wouldn't be room to add on to the west unless I set the house back further from the road.

Aesthetically it would certainly be nicer not the make the house more of a rectangle when adding on but it's just something I'll live with if the day ever comes.

Again, thank you all so much for your ideas. I know it probably sounds like I dismissed a lot of them out of hand but trust me, I've been giving them serious thought over the past couple days and will be working up different floor plans, trying them all, to see if there's anything I like better. The suggestions really made me stop and think why I did some things the way I did. I've never designed or built before so while I have my reasons for most things I'm usually not sure if they're good reasons.

I'll post some updated plans soon and will keep everyone up to date when building starts, which will hopefully be in April, depending on when winter packs it in this year.

And if you have any more ideas let me hear them.

Alan




MountainDon

Re: heating

Are you planning on having a large (200 + gallon) on ground tank? Cook with propane?  Water heating? clothes dryer? 

Home owners insurance would most likely want to see a standard furnace. Maybe some wall mount direct vent heaters would work. The thing is if you are going to buy home owners insurance most likely they would insist on that. I'd check with a few insurance companies or brokers before getting too far along in the plans.   Direct vent propane heaters could also work. Even electric basdeboard if electricity is priced fairly. There is a heating fuel cost comparator in the General Forum     http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=9810.0

If you installed a forced air furnace you could also have an air handler / air exchanger included to ensure proper interior air quality if you build really tight. That could operate without the furnace actually supplying heat, but the furnace would be there if/when it was needed.   ???


Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

poppy

Alan, one more thought on the stairway situation.  It makes perfect sense to have an access that permits large objects to be moved from one level to another.  I worked for a sporting goods store when I was in college and I helped the delivery guy with ping pong and pool tables and there were some real challenges on stairways.  d*

One consideration might be to add an outside stairway directly into the basement; although that would allow easy egress for future teenagers.  ;)

And not to hijack the thread but the discussion about distance between kitchen counters got me to thinking about my rehab project.  I'm planning a U layout in a 11.5' wide space.  That means there would be a nominal 7.5' distance between counters which is a little tight for an island plus it makes the working triangle too big.  (for a variety of reasons the refrigerator and sink are on opposing runs of the U and the stove is at the base)

So since I have blown out the wall between the kitchen and great room anyway (on the sink side), my thinking now is to move the sink run in making either a nominal 4.5' or 5' space between runs.  This also provides space for a counter on the sink run without protruding out into the great room.

One never knows how someone else's design discussion will help their own.  [cool]

Alan Gage

Lots of research and planning over the past couple weeks. Plans have changed a bit (as I'm sure they will again). I'm now leaning strongly towards an insulated slab on grade. No more worries about stairs, joist span, or heating multiple levels. Here's the roughly 850 sq. ft. floor plan I'm working with now:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7935459@N05/5432847236/sizes/o/in/photostream/

It's 22x36 not including the bedroom jutting out (8 ft). The outside area to the south of the bedroom (left) will be a patio and the bedroom wall will block the view of the neighbor to the north, which is good. Happy about having a mudroom and the largish storage area between the bedroom and bath will be nice.

Thoughts? Critiques?

Alan



MountainDon

It could be just me, but having had both sliding patio doors and hinged swinging patio doors I much prefer the hinged variety. Moving through them seems to be quicker, easier, smoother, more natural.

Your bedroom is an example of one thing I like about slab foundation/floors. Bump outs and the like are easy to do. (Yes, we live on a slab with a few 'bumps' and I have swapped the original slider for a hinged door set.   :D )

The water heater might be better placed in the storage room. ???  What kind; elec or gas. Gas requires venting for combustion air as well as exhaust.

The bathroom seems huge to me. What is that under the window?

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Sassy

After having a couple double French doors in the underground house, I agree w/Don - I would never put sliding glass doors in again.  I love the French doors - you can open them both to bring large furniture items in or just open one...  we installed them in our rental up the hill - the house has a wrap around porch & opened up the dining room which was just a closed in box before. 
http://glennkathystroglodytecabin.blogspot.com/

You will know the truth & the truth will set you free

Alan Gage

Interesting to hear more about hinged doors vs. sliding. My dad is pushing for hinged as well. I'll have to spend some more time thinking about that. My main reason for going with a sliding door is that I can leave the door open with the screen closed to keep out bugs and get some nice airflow. Also being able to leave the door open without worrying about it blowing shut in case I forget to block it.

The bathroom is big but it's the laundry room as well. There's a washer next to the shower and a cabinet/counter top to the left of that. Room for a side by side washer/drier if I decide to go that way in the future. Figure the room will also be used for some storage so I'm leaving room for shelves/cabinets.

To me the hot water heater (electric) seems to be in an ok spot. Fairly close to all hot water faucets and there will be a floor drain in the room in case something bad happens. Just wondering what you thought the benefits would be of moving it to the storage room? Maybe then making the bath/laundry room smaller?

Alan

MountainDon

Alan, I didn't realize that was also a laundry room. It makes sense now. And yes, I was thinking that moving the water heater would make the bathroom smaller but that's because of my misinterpretation of the space.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

considerations

Maybe you could buy/or make something like this to have french doors and still have a screen for bugs.

http://www.amazon.com/Bug-Off-Instant-Magnetic-doorways/dp/B00178XCAY/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Alan Gage

Still working on a floor plan but I think I'm getting close. Pretty happy with what I've got here:


Almost there? by Alan  Gage, on Flickr

That's a laundry room between the bedrooms. Any future addition would be to the north so the window in the laundry would be turned into a door.

Leaning towards a hip roof (4/12) that would extend over the patio area (east side of the house). Besides covering the patio it would simplify the roof design by making it a simple rectangle. Otherwise a valley would dump right in front of my patio door, which I'll be using a lot in winter as I bring in more firewood.

Thoughts?

I'm past the point of no return now as the current house is just a gutted shell. Finally got some more decent weather to go back to work on it. I'll start on getting the roof off this weekend.

Alan


Texas Tornado

Bathroom Area...Why not put all your fixtures on the other wall, saves listening to toilet being flushed etc in the middle of the night. 8)

MountainDon

Mmmmm. If you do a hip roof and then want to add on, what happens? Tear the hip portion on the north off, extend and rebuild the hip end? I guess that'll work.

You can carry a gable roof over the patio too and not have to tear roof apart to extend. Especially easy with a truss roof. If the addition was not as wide as the first part of the house there would be no need to match the new roof level to the existing one either. Ditto if the addition was wider.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Alan Gage

QuoteBathroom Area...Why not put all your fixtures on the other wall, saves listening to toilet being flushed etc in the middle of the night.

Good idea. Wonder why I didn't think of it? :)

QuoteMmmmm. If you do a hip roof and then want to add on, what happens? Tear the hip portion on the north off, extend and rebuild the hip end? I guess that'll work.

I've been wondering about this a bit too. Been meaning to do some research about expansion with a hip roof. I'd originally planned on a 1 bedroom but now that the size has increased to a 2 bedroom the odds of expansion have decreased. I need to do some more thinking about my priorities in this area.

Reasons for going to a hip roof are the fact that I like the look and for the overhang on all walls to block the sun/rain. This is going to be a pretty plain looking house and while I'm not too hung up on looks I'd like to do something to dress it up a bit. A gable would certainly be easier, faster, and cheaper and I could add an overhang over the south facing windows.

Alan