Roof concerns on shingled wall and roof.

[bayview]

   We are considering building a storage shed . . .    The left side and roof will be 3 tab shingles.   Front, back and right side would be some sort of conventional siding.

   The pitch of the roof will be 3/12.   My biggest concern is the "peak" of the roof . . .    Where the left side and the roof will connect.   I'm concerned about leakage.

   What would be the best way to accomplish this for minimum leakage and still look good?

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[MountainDon]

A metal cap like a metal roof ridge cover?  In a baked on factory finish? 

[bayview]

A metal cap like a metal roof ridge cover?  In a baked on factory finish? 

   Are there special nails for the cap so it wouldn't leak?   Or, just regular roofing nails?

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[Redoverfarm]

To begin with I would definitely use ice guard on both surfaces.  In fact lay a layer on each plane from the peak down.  Then another layer centered on the peak to overlap the other two layers.  Not real sure that a ridge cap would work given the angle.  But if you had someone with a metal break they could fabricate a cap say extended down both planes 6" or so.   The weakest portion will probably not be water if properly flashed but wind.  I don't believe that you will get shingles (ridge type) to bend that far without breaking or cracking.  But with the ice guard the nail holes of the shingles should self heal.  Have you figured what that angle is?  Looking at it from "cocked head " position it looks close to a 12/12 pitch.  Maybe ridge caps will work?

[bayview]

Redoverfarm:

  The left wall and the roof are both 3/12 pitch . . .    So the "peak" would be 45 degrees.

  Would it be better to make the wall and roof "steeper"?   May 4/12, to help eliminate wind.

   I'm in central Texas. . .    Near Waco.   So, snowload won't be a concern.

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[Redoverfarm]

Any steaper and a metal cap would have a hard time bending.  If it is 45deg then isn't that a 12/12 pitch from the peak down both surfaces?  They actually used to make a metal ridge cap that they used with shingles.  It had about a 2" round ridge formation.  Normally if you used a metal ridge cap it would be secured with screws but you can get gasketed roofing nails that would work.  They use them for nailed down barn roofing metal.  In fact I think that is where I saw the ridge caps once. 

On this site there are various types of ridge caps.  Maybe you can find one that will work for you.

http://www.bbsheetmetal.com/roofing-ridge-hip-caps/index.html

[UK4X4]

 "The left wall and the roof are both 3/12 pitch . . .    So the "peak" would be 45 degrees."



the peak will be 90 deg !

[PEG688]

 A simple cap metal bent at 90 deg,  or a little over bent , 

  ((((  so that when you go to install it you have to push / spread the metal to get it positioned tight  against the roofing  sort of a easy "smooshing of the metal as you press it down into place ))) 

, installed dead last over the top of the singles will work , you could spread a healthy bead  or two parallel beads of black jack on the shingles then bed the metal into them. Pick up a metal roofing screw with a rubber gasket on them, 1/4" nut driver type.  Pick a color of metal close to the roofing and screws to match.  

If moss is a issue and looks are secondary use galvanized metal and matching screw color. The galvie will leach out and help reduce the moss. It's won't look as pretty , but it will work for both weather proofing and moss  growth reduction.

Good luck.

It's a odd , sort of ugly shaped roof line , but beauty is in the eye of the beholder and function some times trumps looks.        

[bayview]

It's a odd , sort of ugly shaped roof line , but beauty is in the eye of the beholder and function some times trumps looks.        

  I was thinking of installing solar air collectors on the angled wall-roof.   But I guess your right . . .    It is ugly!

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