Finish flooring-need ideas

Started by Okie_Bob, June 28, 2007, 05:47:48 PM

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Okie_Bob

Finally getting close to the point of needing to decide what to do with the floors!
I've looked at Lumber Liquidators and was depressed by what I saw. Their floors
all come in boxes and random lengths. I hate those little 1' long pieces they use
and it doesn't matter if you are buying the most expensive material they sell or
the cheapest, you still get the mix with one foot long boards.!
So, what are other options? I am leaning on a wider plank board 3/4" thick, nailed to the subfloor.
Wife wants a darker rather than lighter color.
I'm leaning towards an unfinished pine they sell at Lumber Lig at about 1.50 per sf but, you get
those dang short pieces!
If I decided to install myself what kind of mess would I be getting into trying to sand, stain and finish?
Just looking for ideas here or someone to come do the job for me!
HELP
Okie Bob

glenn kangiser

I put one in where the lady was going to do the finish herself.  The fit was pretty good and I don't think she was going to sand anymore.  My friend with a mill had it professional t&g'd and it was already sanded.  It was much better than the original floor upstairs, and I believe she was only going to oil finish it with tung oil.  Several coats of that make a varnish looking type finish but I think more durable and not as prone to scratching off as it is in the wood.  We used an air assisted Portanails nailer to install the hidden nails.

Better get more opinions as I haven't used oil myself.  A friend finished art chainsaw carvings with a similar oil and they were great looking.

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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cecilia

We finished all our messmate timber stair treads (no stair carpet) and upstairs floors at the Duckpond with a tung oil which had a resin in it.

The floor was sanded, then one coat applied with a lambswool applicator, left 24 hours and then a second coat applied. After the first coat it looked absolutely awful - patchy, bits dull, bits too shiny! After the second coat it was a lovely satin finish and after a couple of years of daily use, the floor and stairs look as good as they ever did. Any bad scratches on the floor can be easily erased with a tiny bit of oil on a rag.

Love that tung oil!
cecilia
www.duckpond-design.com.au/theduckpond
Life's too short to stuff mushrooms!

John Raabe

I like an oil finish myself. I have used Danish oil on wood windows and trim as well as cabinets. After many years of build-up you can just steel wool or sand and reapply a fresh film and it will look great. You can't do that with the plastic finishes.

I have not used an oil on flooring but others have.
None of us are as smart as all of us.

Okie_Bob

First, I was very impressed with the 'Duck Pond' Cecilla. Really a great looking place all around, great work!

John, how does Danish oil differ from tung oil? I've used tung before but, not familiar with Danish oil.
Glenn, when using tung oil in quantities, can you get it in anything bigger than the pints I'm familiar with?
I'm talking about 1100 sf of flooring and it would take a lot of pints! Also, does anyone have any experience
mixing or using a stain with tung oil? I'm currently thinking 'white heart pine' flooring and want to darken it up
a bit. Tung oil pretty much gives a clear finish as I recall. I'd want it darker for sure.
Thanks as always to everyone for the help, got a new idea and one I like, as usual from all my friends on here!
Okie Bob


glenn kangiser

Never used these guys, BoB, but here

http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html


     8 oz. $6.95
16 oz. $9.95
32 oz. $16.50
1 Gallon $39.95
55 Gallons $1155.00*
(coverage 300 to 400 sq. ft. per gallon)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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glenn kangiser

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

John Raabe

Danish vs Tung oil?

I found this discussion by some experienced woodworkers and now wonder if either one is anything more than brand name mixes.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15837
None of us are as smart as all of us.

MountainDon

I believe Danish Oil is a polymerized linseed oil, whereas Tung Oil is pressed from the seeds in the nuts of the tung tree.

Maybe if it's a Dane doing the tung nut pressing it's also Danish oil.    ::) :-/

Couldn't help that, sorry.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


JRR

#9
... or would it be Dung Oil?

outhouse

You can rent those big floor sanders most places. You would need something to get the corners.  Latex and regular floor urethane is pretty common. I think the latex-based has quicker dry time. The coverage on both was pretty good, but they are about $30-$40 per gallon.

MarkAndDebbie

I had been looking at
http://antiquesupply.com/products/GOLDEN_S_PURE_TUNG_OIL_GL-127-549.html
$36.95 - have to check shipping to see what's a better deal.

I think I'll use it basically everywhere with the citrus solvent.

Okie_Bob

Thanks all for your inputs.
Well, I cut some short samples and tried various approaches. Wife took a look and told me we are going with the heart pine and stain/poly mixed deal. So, that settles that. (See Glenn, I learn quick from you!)
On my way to the lake to get started on the rest of the trim and stairs so I can finish paint and start on the floors.
Getting close..and getting excited!!!
Okie Bob

glenn kangiser

Great, BoB.  You also mentioned,  "Great, Honey.  Glad you like it.  OK, I'll put the floor in and you do the finishing", didn't you BoB? :)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.