Mad Dog Ranch and Cabin

Started by Mad Dog, August 04, 2008, 06:39:45 PM

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Mad Dog

Just wanted to bring this back up to the top, and ask a question.  Got all the gravel work done last weekend, but still need to set the sonotubes and pour concrete.  This got me to thinking.  I want to expand the Little House Plan to 16x24, instead of the 14x24 plan. 

I've already planned on 10 piers, 6' on center for the 24 foot(4x12 beams).  What I want to know, is how far apart to set the concrete piers?  The plans call for 9' 8" OC for the 14 foot spans, but since I plan on 16 foot wide, how far apart would be reasonable to set the piers?  I plan on using either 2x10 or 2x12 joists, for more insulation and support, so I was figuring that 10' OC(3 foot overhang on each end) would be ok, or would it be better to maintain the 2 foot overhang on each end(2' 2" in the plans), and set the piers at 12' OC?

Let me know any and all thoughts, my parents and nephew leave tomorrow night for their trip back to the lower 48, and I need to get cracking before winter comes. d*  Thanks. 
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.

glenn kangiser

I'm about out of time now , but when you change width things change to a different bulding - length is not a problem -- all I can suggest is to check out the changes Don made as he did similar.  Here's a link. 

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=2335.0

I wouldn't change the cantilever without checking what will work for sure.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


MountainDon

Please note my cabin at 16 ft (15 ft 9 inches actually) is a single story with NO loft. That would make a bit of a difference in the loads coming down on the side walls. The side walls carry all the roof load; gable ends do not unless there is a ridge BEAM instead of a ridge BOARD, and then the gable end design is different.

My support beams are spaced so there is a one foot overhang as measured at the outside edge of the beams. The floor joists are 2x10 #2 Hem-Fir on 16" centers, and sit on top od the support beams; 3/4" OSB T&G decking.

Walking, jumping on the floor inside produces no discernible bounce.  :)

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Mad Dog

Thanks for the response Don.  I see what you are saying with the beams, but you didn't mention how much overhang you have with the joists.  The beams I'll be placing will rest on the piers on each end, with no overhang.  What I'm trying to determine, is how much overhang for the joists sitting on the beams.  The original plans call for 9' 8" OC for the piers, with 2' 2" overhang with 14' joists.  With 16' joists, is it acceptable to have the same overhang, considering I'll be using 2x10 or 2x12 joists, instead of 2x6 or 2x8?

I'm going to have to take the time and reread your thread to see exactly what you did when I have some more time, but any help would be appreciated. :)
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.

MountainDon

#54
I'm sorry, I thought I had made that clear.  :(  My joists overhang the outside edge of the beam by about 12 inches, or in other words it's about 12 - 13 inches from the outside edge of the beam to the outside edge of the rim joist. When comparing remember that my beams are a true 6 inches wide.

If you have purchased the plans from John you can post the question under the Plans Support banner and John will do his best to provide timely advice.



Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


Mad Dog

Quote from: MountainDon on August 27, 2008, 04:56:28 PM
I'm sorry, I thought I has made that clear.  :( 





Thanks Don, I went back and reread your thread, just wanted to know if this quote was some new style of writing. ;D
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.

MountainDon

I think and talk better than I type.   d*
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

My fingers often type things I don't tell them to. [crz]
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Mad Dog

I thought it was some cryptic code that only moderators and administrators use. [slap]
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.


glenn kangiser

Shhh - we're very secretive.... [crz]
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.