14 x 24 Olympic Peninsula

[glenn kangiser]

  So that is what Microsoft is up to....Permanent job security

...and Firefox will never stop hogging memory when I have 32 tabs open...

[MountainDon]

...and Firefox will never stop hogging memory when I have 32 tabs open...

Do you blame it?   

[glenn kangiser]

I still want to do it my way.  The Burger King computer use theory.

[considerations]

I got the steps done.  The deck is not fastened.  Have to figure out the curves around the posts...



At least the stairs are level and uniform.  All that, and then I find out there are little calculators that can do the head scratching for you.  Stubborn people often reinvent the wheel.

[PEG688]

  Stubborn people often reinvent the wheel.

Real stuborn folks don't ask either , they just do it , so I guess we know where you at 

[MountainDon]

Sturdy looking stairs. 

[glenn kangiser]

The curves around the posts... Considerations, do you mean you want to scribe a board to fit the posts tightly? hmm

If so we can direct you on that.

[considerations]

"The curves around the posts... Considerations, do you mean you want to scribe a board to fit the posts tightly?"

Uhm....Yes.  The top of that little deck is made up of 2 x 4 PT, and the posts are round.  To completely cover the deck, with a little overhang along the outside edge, 2 of the 2 x 4's will have to be cut (scribed?) to fit the contour of the posts where the posts meet the deck. 

The overhang is necessary (3/4"?) because I want to make an enclosed "cabinet" out of the area under the deck, and it will shelter the top of the enclosure wall with the doors in it. 

[Redoverfarm]

considerations I am probably not the best on the subject but I had to do several with the cabin.  I will tell you how I did it.

Take the 2X4 that you want to scribe and place it parralled to the post but also parrallel to the existing deck boards already in place.  The later being the most important.  There will be a difference between the post side of the board and each individual post.  The one with the most difference is what you want to set your scribe by.  So in essence you will be taking out less material on the bigger gaps areas and more on the smaller gap areas.  I use a drafting compass or divider. Figure out how far you want to wrap the curve around the post and set the compass to give you that depth from the edge (outside edge).  You will have to take into condiseration( no pun intended) that you will need to take out enough to allow the inside edge of the board to meet with the board already in place with your deck.
Depending on the distance you now have it may be necessary to rip the board to meet existing board to give you the proper width( Usually doesn't work out on the edge)


I am terrible with explanation.  I know how to but poorley explain the process to others.
Maybe Glenn will have a better way.

[glenn kangiser]

Pretty close, John. 

You can eliminate ripping the board by making it exactly parallel with the existing deck boards - allowing the gaps to vary on the posts.

This is called offsetting by my old dead uncle who taught me.  The marking of it is the scribing because as John said it is scribed onto the board with a compass or there are actually scribing tools that look just about like a compass.

You can set it tight to  the closest post if you want and parallel to the boards to keep the gap consistent but it can be set a given number of inches if you want such as 1/2 inch - 1 " etc.  Key is parallel to the existing desired straight line - in this case the deck boards.  Sheetrock etc  is the same story.

Before placing the board measure the tightest space from the post to the existing deck board.  Add a desired amount for  clearance - 0" t0 1/8" or whatever you want.  You could make it tight and hammer it in with a block of wood to protect it? Maybe....

Secure the board in this parallel to deck position by screws, nails or weights.  Set the compass or scribe so that the mark will leave only enough board to fit in the gap - add the desired clearance to the scribe spread distance to make the  cut board that much thinner. Double check by measuring the marked board.  Practice once on one post with a scrap if you want.

If the gap was 2 inches then the thickness should be 1 15/16" if you wanted a 1/16" clearance.  Since the other post now has a wider gap and the scribe is set the same distance for all, the proper space will then be marked on the further distant or closer other obstacles.

It is imperative that the scribe (line from log contact point to the pencil) be held at a 90 degree angle ( close to vertical but square with the deck board edge)  to the parallel surface of the deck boards.  This is what determines how accurate the distances are that are transferred to the mark you are making on the board.

Running the point of the scribe along the post causes the pencil to move in exact relationship to the contours of the post.  Be sure to not move the distance the compass or scribe is set at during the marking operation.  Light lines are ok - you can darken them with a pencil if you want.  Remember - Hold the scribe square to the existing deck boards to insure accuracy.  I do it freehand but eyeballed square as I do it.  The contour will come out quite well if you are carefull.

After  marked cut the shape out with a sawzall or saber saw etc. If you are like me you may beat it out with a rock ax or cut it out with a chainsaw.

Need pictures?   I can do a sketch or make pix of the procedure.

[glenn kangiser]

Here is one I used cardboard templates on to transfer the scribed marks to 3 sides.

[Redoverfarm]

I had forgot using the cardboard Glenn. You can use it either to freehand and just keep cutting out to make the fit OR use the cardboard in place of the deck board that you want to scribe.  Cut out the carboard and make sure that it pleases you then transfer it to the wood board once you are satisfied.  I have done it both ways.  The only problem arises when you are doing it to T&G and it takes on a new meaning of " attempts".

With the floor in the cabin where it met the post and logs I cheated a little.  I just kerf cut permanent section and inserted the flooring.  Probably wouldn't be a proper way for exterior with water but it worked on the inside.

[glenn kangiser]

As you do it and gain confidence you can do it right on the board but in difficult situations it can help.  I have cut slots in some places also.

Patterns and carefully laying out distances can work also.

[MountainDon]

This is one of those things that's easier to demo in a video than to write about it.

One way is to use cardboard and trial and error to obtain a template. Probably lots od trial, lots of error.

Glenn's bang on with the method using the compass. Below is a crude hurried drawing. Please ask if you're not clear. The main point is to hold that compass you're scribing/tracing the diameter of the post with in the same exact orientation to the post. Do not rotate the compass around the post as many people are wont to do. That just makes a bigger diamter that is of no use.

In my drawing;
#1 is a suggestion for laying out paper sheets and taping them together to obtain a surface around the post. This paper will be scribed on using the compass.

#2 illustrates what is meant by holding the compass perpendicular to the material. That orientation is held as the compass is moved around the post.

#3 illustrates sort of what the trace line should look like, except in my drawing the curves don't match    They should.

My drawing makes it appear that the compass is slanted or tilted. That is just for illustrative purposes. In practice the compass woule be held more to the vertical.

[considerations]

"This is one of those things that's easier to demo in a video than to write about it."

Who needs a video, we have MountainDon!   

You confirmed my interpretation of the explanations.  I'll let you know how it turns out, I'm on my "lunch break" and then the first cuts begin.....yes I have extra lumber. 

[considerations]

Ok pics coming, I keep getting finished after dark.  I got the damn door in. Yes it is square and level.  Coughed for a pretty standard knob and deadbolt kit, but ended up putting it back in the box. 

It came with an exploded drawing for the dead bolt that showed parts to install that are not in the box. 

Hell, I don't know.  Do the cheaper models have less parts?  Specifically there is this "plate" that has a metal "can", "funnel", I don't know, that fits in and lines the hole where the dead bolt resides when it is extended. 

I'm headed back to the store to sort things out. (growl).  As long as the wind does not come up, I guess I'm fine for now. 

This economy is starting to get me pretty nervous.  I want to get this place done, but do I save cash also, ergo slowing down the work? Is cash going to be worth anything soon?  Hmmmm.,  I think I need more coffee. 

[glenn kangiser]

Maybe for a bit but I don't see it staying that way.

My rewarming coffee is in the Microwave.  The door latch should be a pretty straightforward process when you have all of the parts.  Don't forget to get ammo.

[PEG688]

  mines just getting done brewing ,that thing is called a dust cover . It's really optional it goes in under the escutcheon plate which is the name of just about any plate that lines or covers a hole.


I did a door hanging thread , I'll see if I can find it.


Generally I throw out the dust covers most lock makers make the things to large and as wimpy as door jambs are today and the crappy wood they use to make the jambs they are almost impossible to install properly.


Take a pitch of your lock laid out on the floor , you may just have something back arse wards , I might be able to help you out and save a trip to town.

Most locks , IF THE box was not opened have all the parts , seldom do they short you as much as a screw.

   

   

[PEG688]

I bumped it up from page 53 on the General forum ,

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3219.msg74463#new

[Sassy]

Hey, considerations, those look like mighty fine steps!  Great job...  hope you're getting your lock in ok.  I was working for a week down in the valley & couldn't see the pix & sometimes miss a lot of postings.

PEG's step by step instructions are so clear even I could probably do it!   

[Jens]

calculators schmalculators.  Stairs don't have to be hard if you know the formula (yours look great by the way).  I start by figuring out the total vertical drop.  If you know that the surface that the bottom of the stairs sit on (a floor for example), and the surface directly underneath the platform are the same height, just measure down.  Sometimes you need to run a level line out, and measure from directly above the foot of the stairs. 
     Measure down, and get your first number...lets just say that it is 88 inches.  A decent rise of stair is between 7 1/4", and 7 1/2", so we divide 88 by 7.25=12.1379.  That is just barely more than 12 steps to cover that total rise.  Now, if we say that there are 13 steps, the rise becomes less than 7.25", so we will say that there are 12 (sometimes you will want to round up, instead of down).  88 divided by 12 = 7.33, that is the rise of each step.  Now, I don't know anyone who has a tape that reads in decimals, so what I do, is take .250...1/4", and add .125...half of 1/4", and I get .375, or 3/8".  Close enough for me.  The code states that the rise cannot vary more than 3/8" total over entire rise of stairs, no more than 1/8" between consequetive steps.  So now you know that your rise is 7 3/8" each stair, and you have 12 steps.  Remember though, that the top step is not part of the stringer that you are cutting, but is up to the top of your platform.  So when you lay out your stringer, you only put 11 risers in the layout (if the stringers are mounted below the platform, 12 if platform height includes stringer). 
    Not done quite yet!  Subtract the thickness of your FINISHED tread material, from the bottom of the stringer (bottom of first riser).  This way, when you add the tread material, you end up with your correct rise amount.  If your stairs are going in before the finished floor, add the thickness of your finished floor to the same place you just removed.  So, every step should now have 7 3/8" rise, but the bottom end of your stringer will only be 5 7/8" (7 3/8" minus 1 /12" tread thickness), but when you add your finished 3/4" (?) flooring, it will now be too low, so adding 3/4, we come out with 6 5/8" from the bottom (level cut to sit on subfloor) of the stringer, to the top of the first riser.  Every riser after that will be 7 3/8".  You must allow for the finished flooring upstairs as well, but this is easier to do when you first measure, as the flooring up there may be different thickness than the tread stock, or downstairs flooring. 
     So to make this all easier, I will tell you something that I should have put in earlier...take a scrap of whatever the finished floor is for each floor, and put it in place before you make your first measurement.  The top of the stringer gets put to a line that is 7 3/8" below this level (to your finished tread stock).  So, like PEG always says...depends.  I really hope I didn't just confuse the snot out of everybody, but it has been a long day, is late, and I just spent so much time typing this, that I am not going to not post it!

[PEG688]

   #1: So, like PEG always says...depends. 




    #2:  I really hope I didn't just confuse the snot out of everybody, but it has been a long day, is late, and I just spent so much time typing this, that I am not going to not post it!


 

  #1:  That was clear as mud Jen's , but your right about one thing ,  It depends 


#2: Keep tryin "son" , some day you'll get-er

[considerations]

PEG - that's pretty much what happened, except I came up a little short, and had to stick a PT 4 X 4 under the back side of the bottom of the stringers because I undershot the concrete pad by about 3 inches. 

Its practice for the one in the house.  I think on that one, I'm going to have to put at least 1 rise in the corner of the L to make it to the second floor. That's going to be interesting. 

[considerations]

well, I've been accumulating pics, but during this cold snap my wireless internet transmitter froze/flaked out/died/something.  Anyway I've been reduced to dial-up until some technogeek gathers the cajones to drive out here on the cleared and sanded highways and deal with the electronics wad at the top of the tower. 

So, the pics are piling up until an upload to photobucket is feasible.  The 1st half of the interior stairs is pretty much in, I have a surprise for all of you on them.....

The landing has to swallow 2 rises or i will be crawling from the top step to the loft. That is in progress. 

This is all being pushed by this cold weather.  When the stairs are "done", I can place the stove, get the chimney in and light a fire! 

a mattress and box springs is laying on OSB up in the "loft"....which is still just ceiling joists with OSB laying on them, but "camping" in the cabin in is my near future!

Not to mention that it will be warmer work once the stove is fired up.   

yes I have a propane heater, but its the kind that just screws into the top of a propane tank, sort of makes me nervous, fumes and all. 

[PEG688]

Well don't kill yourself , this snow will go away one day , looks like next Wed. or Thursday  ,we hope