Progress finally

[glenn-k]

So much of life we haven't experienced --- in a split second someone else can give us a clue -- that we may not have discovered by ourselves in a hundred years.

[Daddymem]

Ok, does this change anything?  We can get a great deal on metal roofing.  So good that it may come close to shingle costs.  So we would be talking about replacing any trim and soffits and running strapping over the existing roof then screwing down metal roofing.  The only unsure part is the two penetrations but I bet we can figure that out.  Would that make sense to do over strip and shingle or shingle over? Thanks for any input.

[glenn-k]

I would do it without any worries about it at all.  I don't know about the rest of them.  I think you are only adding about 1 lb per square foot.

You can make standard roof jacks etc. work if necessary.

[peg_688]

Ok, does this change anything?  We can get a great deal on metal roofing.  So good that it may come close to shingle costs.  So we would be talking about replacing any trim and soffits and running strapping over the existing roof then screwing down metal roofing.  The only unsure part is the two penetrations but I bet we can figure that out.  Would that make sense to do over strip and shingle or shingle over? Thanks for any input.

I used to be able to speak New Englander , but eithet I've lost that "gift" or your not being very clear

#1: You have already put comp. shingles on your roof , but want to re - roof over with metal??

#2:   Or you haven't yet roofed with comp . but are "set up" trim wise ( which would be what some "shingle  mold " to cover the edge of your roof sheathing ??  

   :-? :-/

[glenn-k]

I think we are now talking about the old house with a single layer of shingles that need to be replaced  He'd like to put strip purlins over the existing roofing and then screw the new steel over it completely hiding the old roof.  My dad did that and got away with it.  They like the new metal roof.

[peg_688]

I think we are now talking about the old house with a single layer of shingles that need to be replaced  He'd like to put strip purlins over the existing roofing and then screw the new steel over it completely hiding the old roof.  My dad did that and got away with it.  They like the new metal roof.

[highlight] Ah , see you DO have a clue   [/highlight]

The city / township might have a issue , does it require a permit??

They'd still see it as another roof.

On a buddy of mines we when right over the shingles , used 2" or so screws , we did that I bet almost ten years ago .

Up in Ferndale   , off NW ave , really close to Sassy's old stompin grounds . So she'll know how the wind blows up there . Been a good roof , Mike was replacing 10 or 15 shingles a storm , since then it been all good.

So ya if the permit's not a issue , and the roof framings not to sway backed , right on top of the shingles would work .

If it is sway backed strip it with 1x4 and shim those to a string line , metal looks pretty bad on a sway backed roof , lays funky , won't line up , get crossways etc .

     

[Sassy]

I still have friends in Ferndale & Lynden.  Yes, the wind can howl there  

[glenn-k]

Every once in a while I get enough rest to regain my senses.

[Daddymem]

With the thread drift you might have gone off track.  Yes, still talking about my old house that is in need of a roof.  Sounds like you have forgotten New England PEG.  Of course it requires a permit-doesn't everything around here?  We can do a second layer of shingles with a permit.  We have to ask about the metal roof but it should be ok to install over a single layer of shingles.  The shingles are breaking apart and are covered with moss.  There is some sag in the roof (is that "sway back"?), enough that we can see where the rafters are.  Basically shim the strapping so you have a level surface to screw the metal sheets to, right?  Some of the soffit pieces are rotten and need to be replaced.  I'm trying to get out of it the cheapest while still ending up with a decent roof since we are selling it (gotta pay for the new house as much as we can).  If I was staying I would strip it and put a metal roof on.  With the deal we can get on metal roof, I was considering it as an option while we wait for the quotes to come in for someone else to do it.
Options:
1. Strip roof and shingle
2. Shingle over existing single layer of shingles
3. Strip roof and install metal roof
4.  Install metal roof over existing single layer of shingles

1&3 and 2&4 will probably be pretty close to each other cost wise.  Depending on the contractor quote to strip and shingle, we may go DIY so I just wanted to get opinions on which of my options are good or if they are all ok and I just have to make a choice.

[peg_688]

All 4 of your listed options are do able.  I'll point out my (take the $$ of a new comp roof off the selling price) I mentioned back on June  9th  0725   (7:25 AM  for you civilains  )

 Thread drift , ya it got me   Good thing Glenn was well rested   Sharp as a tack that guy  

[glenn-k]

So now you're saying I have a pointed head. :-/

A GC once told me work started at 0700.  I laughed -  I don't often do 0700.  Then again, I don't stop at 1530.

I later heard him telling another foreman how he'd leave the job at night and - it was like a miracle -- he'd come back in the morning and everything would be done.

[glenn-k]

A fine Firstday back to the top for your review.

[Chuckca]

Daddymen,

Can yiu post your blog link / address?

Thanks
Chuck

[MountainDon]

http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com/

[Daddymem]

Hope resurrecting a zombie thread of mine is acceptable instead of starting a new one since this is in regards to my house.  If not then feel free to  me. 

Hey guys and gals, (and Glenn  ) been a long time, no?  Daddymem is alive, busy busy with rugrats growing and life in general; not any building for years now. Would you believe that the little dude in my avatar on his first bike ride is now a dual enrolled high school little man stretched out to just a hair under 6 foot tall?!?! Time flies almost as fast as the little bugger on his bike.

Anywhos, I got a project coming up and thought I'd get some advice from those smahter than I on these things.

See below linked figures for a canopy we'd like to add to our house.  The front door is on the dark side of the house and there are no gutters so we get a ton of splash off the steps and onto the door. And if it is raining, you get to stand in a shower while unlocking the door.  We replaced the door and added a nice storm dorm recently so we'd like to protect it.  In addition, the snow comes off the roof on this non-gabled wall directly down onto the steps, leaving massive piles. We think the canopy will provide answers to our problems.

General comments, ideas etc welcome.  My three areas of concern are the brackets.

First, is about the angle piece joint to the vertical and horizontal portions. (4x4 with a 1.5" deep pocket) Are these pockets the way to go, or would a bridle joing be better? Or is there another option?

Second is the connection to the house. To review the construction of my house from outside in: 1x8 ship lap nailed to 1x3 which are spiked (8") through 1" and 2" rigid insulation pieces over Tyvek over 1x8 T&G pine sheathing nailed to built up post (three 2x4s nailed together).  The idea I have is to drill a hole all the way through the above and use carriage bolts through the vertical bracket pieces behind the pocket joints as shown. With the bolt going throught the middle of the center 2x4, how thick a bolt do you think?  The snow tends to stick to the roof until it overcomes the friction and comes sliding down all at once.  I have the peak of this canopy close to the roof edge so free fall time prior to contact is minimized.  I don't want the bolts to shear off on us from an avalanche of snow.  A 1/2" x 10 inch galvy like below would get me through everything and most of the way through the 2x4 post, I could recess the washer and nut and cover with interior sheathing for a no-show finish.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-13-tpi-x-10-in-Galvanized-Coarse-Thread-Carriage-Bolt-803646/204633568

Finally, the bolt locations.  Should they be hidden at the joints between pieces, or is it a better idea to put them just below the top and just above the bottom joint instead so they go through the full 4x4 (minus recessing the bolt head maybe).

I think the rest appears to be reasonable.  No building permit here so no other set of eyes on these plans, so looking for a level of comfort.  If you think I should remove the dongle for my wireless mouse and hand in my CAD license and promise to design no more, I don't mind hearing that either. 

TIA.

PDFs
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3C2Z23ga_pKQjl5Z1p5WlZUcVE/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3C2Z23ga_pKUkhBQmFuRi1SWTQ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3C2Z23ga_pKWmxPbElGRDlGQW8/view?usp=sharing

CAD file for you CAD jockeys like me.

PS Our blog moved to https://littlehouseonthesandpit.wordpress.com/  I haven't done much updating, but there really isn't much new, just the same old grind, thank God for homebrew!

PPS I am now the Staff Engineer for the Town of Falmouth and have my PE, yep I gots a rubbah stamp now.

[rick91351]

WOW has it been that long?  Love your idea....  So long as you don't have a lot of ice and snow rolling down and off.  If you do, you might build a cricket to help divert it.  Or build it stouter or more substantial I. E. boxed in a porch cover over the stairs.  We suggested Ol' Jarhead do the same and has worked well over the years. But he gets a ton of snow...  Northern Washington.  You might go to his site and see.  Glad to see your still around - just because your not building gives no reason to stay away......      

[Daddymem]

Thanks!  We thought of putting down posts, but that triggers the building permit.  Not a huge deal, but then I'd have to get a Zoning Board of Appeals variance because that would be subject to setbacks that got larger since we built the house...

As far as snow, we can get a ton at once in a Nor'easter or Blizzard, or not much.  Last year for example, we had a couple of almost 2-footer snow storms. 

I'd cricket, but I don't like the idea of holding that snow up on the roof with the bazillion screw penetrations through the metal roof.

[rick91351]

Thanks!  We thought of putting down posts, but that triggers the building permit.  Not a huge deal, but then I'd have to get a Zoning Board of Appeals variance because that would be subject to setbacks that got larger since we built the house...

As far as snow, we can get a ton at once in a Nor'easter or Blizzard, or not much.  Last year for example, we had a couple of almost 2-footer snow storms. 

I'd cricket, but I don't like the idea of holding that snow up on the roof with the bazillion screw penetrations through the metal roof.

I hear you there about the screws.  We had to go to small cricket on the wood stove chimney or flue.  We tried a Cricket Eliminator that did not work at all.  It produced a huge glacier taller than the flue - only in like five or six feet.... So went with the real thing.  Just left the Cricket Eliminator on the flue to give it more support.  But that is not your problem.   

I really do like the looks of what you are planning, however around here we try and avoid dropping snow and ice to a lower roof. It tends to over time pull everything down with it..... 

       

[Daddymem]

...however around here we try and avoid dropping snow and ice to a lower roof. It tends to over time pull everything down with it..... 

So are there solutions in your area?  I did think of decreasing the pitch and keeping the peak elevation to reduce the 3' drop to something less, but I want to also get the snow off the canopy ASAP.  I'd love to hear solutions from other parts of the country.

[Watch Ryder]

Let's see some pics!

[Daddymem]

The rug rats at Diana's Baths in New Hampshire this past summah


My summah project last yeeah


Da new door detail with some bones showin


Younger rugrats standin in front of the door, only difference now is no trim on the door (well the kids are bigger now too and there is one more of them)


How's that?

[Daddymem]

Two new ideas:

1.  Extend the vertical bracket piece 4x4 down to the top steps (concrete prefab).
2.  Pull out the concrete steps, and extend the vertical bracket piece 4x4 down to the ground on a block. Build a half step of wood to sit at the door to block the ~5" gap between house and step.

[Daddymem]

On another front...we still have the albatross (other house).  Renter is out (do we have stories on that fiasco...being a landlord sux, especially when you lose money every month) so we are trying to sell it and it needs gutters.  Jeez the seamless guys want a ton of dough!  We are gonna do aluminum 10 sections from the local big box, appears to be the cheapest we could find.  Now questions to those who have done before:

1.  Overlap the joints or use seamers?
2.  Cut in downspout holes or use the downspout pieces?

Pertinent info:
(2) 10' runs
(2) 24' runs
(4) seams required for gutter joining
(4) downspouts total

Any advice on gutters appreciated. 

TIA

[germanbird]

I recently added a run 30+ feet of gutter down the swampy side of our barn using 10 ft aluminum sections.  I'd be happy to take some photos or describe of any of the details.  (My install is pretty rough, but it's a barn so I could get away with it.)

I chose to overlap instead of using seamers to avoid the water hitting a seam when it flowed down the slope.  I overlapped the sections by 4", put the "higher" section inside the "lower", and put a bead of gutter seamer inside before nesting the sections together.

I used the downspout pieces instead of cutting in the holes.  I'd say you could go either way with this.  It did make that bit easier to assemble (although getting the adjacent section to nest in it nicely was kind of a pain -- I think the profiles might have been off slightly).  I also only had one drop, so it really wasn't that much of a cost for me.  You might just calculate the the cost both ways and decide if the extra cost is worth the convenience.

Semi-pro tip:  I had good luck snapping a chalkline at the proper slope (there were a lot of numbers out on the internet, but I think I went with a 1/4" drop per every 8-10 ft) and then installing to the line.  I think I installed it in 20 ft sections -- it was easier to get it nested together nice and straight while on the ground.

[Daddymem]

Thanks for the advice.  Wish me luck!