utilty room

[new land owner]

I was at camp last week and set up my water system in my basement utility room.  I have a fill tube outside that drops down to the storage tank and fills it from outside.



I was able to get great deals on my system.  I have been looking for deals and have been collecting parts for the last few years.  When I ordered my storage tank it was not there when promised so they gave me $100.00 off,  my pressure tank was only $50.00 at a habitat restore and I found the water heater on clearance at Lowe's a couple of years ago.






I found this manifold system on the internet a year ago and bought the Pex crimping tool at Lowe's to set it up.  I mounted this on the wall and ran the Pex lines for the Toilet, Tub, and Bathroom sink. I only have the kitchen sink to finish up. I am hoping to get the kitchen up and running in July when my wife and I take a week at camp. It have two valves , one for hot and one for cold to empty the system to winterize things.


I know there are other systems for crimping Pex pipe but I would highly recommend this system from Lowe's I did not have any leaks on any of my fittings. Anyone have any suggestions on improvements?

[flyingvan]

Nice, clean work!  That looks great.  You asked for suggestions---you might have already handled these, but--

--what prevents the storage tank from overflowing? 
--Is the pump on a ground fault interrupt circuit?
--Is that water on the floor under the filter a temporary feature?
--Also--strapping your water heater to the wall is cheap insurance (Required here in California)

[new land owner]

Thanks for the input.

1). I fill the water from a spring down the road so I regulate how much water is on the storage tank.
2). The pump on it's own circuit and not GFI'ed.  I can change out the receptical.
3). There were a couple of leaks where fitting were installed on the water pump.  They were all fixed and the water just has to dry.
4). I had not thought about securing the water tank but I can easily do that next trip.

Thanks

[Big Ed]

Did you do this underground to have a winter water supply? Or do you still have to drain it through the winter?

[jdindino]

Very nice setup, well done! 

[new land owner]

Thanks, the only issue I have is water pressure.  I have good water pressure at the manifold when I open one of the drain valves but I do not have good pressure on the faucets. I am thinking it might be because of the length of 1/2 PVC and I am thinking of changing the set up, removing the manifold and running larger supply lines to feed the faucets?  Not sure if that will help, but I think that is the issue.

[Big Ed]

Couldn't hurt.

[Dave Sparks]

Faucets are often fed with 1/2" unless the run is really really long. I would have a smoke detector for each floor at minimum.

[jdindino]

When you say "good pressure" at the manifold, have you thrown a gauge on it? What pressure? Then do the same at the faucets and see where you are at. Looking at pressure loss calculations for a given run/height gain and diameter, you can substitute for larger line and see what the  numbers say before spending the time and money. Around here, new houses get 1/2" lines to sink fixtures, on runs in a 2000sq ft 2 story house. Larger items like a garden tub get 3/4" lines.

[wgiles]

Your pump appears to have the pressure switch mounted on it, so your water filter shouldn't be between the pump and the storage tank. The pressure drop through the filter will prevent the tank from reaching full pressure. I don't see a check valve in the system, but I have to assume that there is one to keep the water from flowing back through the pump after it shuts off. Your pressure tank charge pressure needs to be balanced to your pump's pressure switch. The air pressure in your pressure tank should be just a bit below the pressure switches cut in pressure setting when the system is drained. If your cut in pressure is 20 PSI, your tank should be charged to around 15 - 18 PSI. If the charge pressure is too high, the tank will run empty before the pump cuts in. If it's too low, you won't be using all of your tanks volume and volume is what you mean when you say that you don't have pressure at the faucets. My system is similar to yours. I have a 1/2 HP shallow well pump with a 30 - 50 PSI pressure switch, but my pressure switch is mounted on the pressure tank. All of the piping feeding more than one faucet is 3/4" and each faucet is fed with 1/2" pipe. I have two stories and have no flow problems on the second floor. I have a second floor lavatory that doesn't flow all that well, but that is because of the small feeder lines from the connection to the 1/2" pipes. I doubt that the 1/2" PEX lines are the problem. I don't see any real problems with your manifolds and piping and suspect that your restriction may be at the faucet. I see a pressure gauge on the pressure tank manifold. What are your cut in and cut out pressures? Open a faucet somewhere and watch the pressure gauge. Read the pressures when your pump cuts in and when it cuts out.