Pier and Beam Foundation - Skirting Options

Started by Kodakjello, January 30, 2006, 01:46:40 PM

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Kodakjello

January 30, 2006, 01:46:40 PM
Hey everyone,

I've been reading the forums here for a few months and I finally took the plunge and ordered plans for the 2 story universal cottage! I'm looking to build in the Ottawa region up here in Canada (brrrr!) and I'm planning on using the pier and beam foundation option.

My building site has tons of clay (I don't think it's the expansive type) and a relatively high water table in the spring, about 2 feet under the surface  :o  So, I'm planning on using the Footing Tube (http://www.foottube.com) to eliminate movement due to freezing and expansion. However, I would like to create a crawlspace underneath the house, preferably sealed, to help protect the underside of the house from the elements.

I have decided to go with spary foam so I will be sealing the bottom of the first floor with glued and screwed plywood and spraying foam from above. It should keep everything warm but I just think an enclosed crawlspace would be an even better option.

Does anyone have any ideas for inexpensively creating a closed crawlspace for a house using pier and beam? I'm leaning towards cement board with stucco from the siding down to the ground but I don't know if it's good for it to be incontact with the ground.

I'd appreciate any advice!

Shaun

glenn-k

#1
January 30, 2006, 02:00:48 PM Last Edit: January 30, 2006, 02:02:29 PM by glenn-k
Hi Shaun.  Tons of clay - maybe you could work out a method to use it as infill for your post/peir foundation walls.  Frost heaving could be a problem - maybe on a well drained gravel trench.  I'm doing a rammed earth /soil cement project now -see pix this site.  Maybe a modified version of that could work - otherwise I'm sure we can help figure out conventional means.

A clue to whether it is expanding clay can be found in the summer - does it get great big shrinkage cracks when dry.  Otherwise I have seen more scientific test methods too.

Cement board and stucco shouldn't have a problem with ground contact.  Wood does.

jonseyhay

#2
January 30, 2006, 02:03:23 PM Last Edit: January 30, 2006, 02:39:08 PM by jonseyhay
Hi Shaun,
I expect you are talking about Hardie panels or something similar. Go to this site and you can download tech manuals on all their products. Even if you don't use their product the manuals are worth getting, as a lot of the fixing information applies to other stuff. I'm sure you will find the information you need in there somewhere.
http://www.jameshardie.com.au/Products/ExternalMonolithicCladding/HardiTexSystem/TechManual/
Just thinking about this again, Pegs probably the guy that could give you the good oil on that. I think he is in a similar climate to you. Mould and mildew would be the main problem with ground contact I would think. There should be some sort of coating to cope with that.

Jimmy_Cason

#3
January 30, 2006, 02:26:41 PM Last Edit: January 30, 2006, 02:57:41 PM by Jimmy_Cason
Hi Shaun,
Welcome ....I am glad you brought this up. I have not put much thought into this.
Mine is pier and beam also. My first thought is setting a concrete block wall under the exterior beams at some point in the future. I did a pier and beam because of the slope on my property.  I think it is about 5-6 feet tall in the back. I have been storing things under the house since the day the subfloor was installed!  

Kodakjello

#4
January 30, 2006, 02:44:59 PM
Good question Glenn....I don't think I've ever seen any shrinkage cracks in the summer although I've only had the land for a year now. I figured that cement board would be acceptable for ground contact but I guess I'll have to use metal/PT wood straps to connect it to the beams and rim joists.

Jonsey, thanks for the link. I think this is what I was talking about, although I was picturing the cement panels that are used in bathroom showers. I sure this will come in handy in the future.

Another reason I want to explore an enclosed crawlspace is to deal with the freezing potential of the sewer pipe where it exits the house. Does anyone know how to connect the sewer pipes from a Pier and Beam house to a grey water leach pit that is buried in the ground? Is it a simple insulated box?

Thanks everyone!

Shaun

jonseyhay

#5
January 30, 2006, 02:55:15 PM
Shaun, the stuff they use in showers is called Villaboard and is only used inside I think. The outdoor stuff is a little different. If you have a good look around the Hardie site you will find a lot of different products that could be used. I think most of them are available over there as they have moved their headquarters to the US. All their tech sheets are worth downloading as there is a lot of useful stuff there that applies to other building products.

Kodakjello

#6
January 30, 2006, 03:20:49 PM
Jimmy - I've thought about just laying a CMU wall under the beams but then I would need to pour some sort of footer underground and then I'm half way to making a crawlspace foundation and then I might as well go a few feet deeper....you get the picture.  ::) One of the reasons why I'm going with Pier and Beam is due to the unsuitablilty of a traditional basement of crawspace foundation.  :'( I would love to have a full basement but the water table is just too high. The neighbours have an unfinished basement and it is always damp and the sump pump runs 24/7. I just couldn't pass up the land though, 2 1/4 acres on a county highway for $10,000  :D

By the way Jimmy, I noticed that you're building the 20x40 2-story. Do you have any plans for the attic space?

Jonsey - Thanks for the info, I guess it makes sense they would be different.

Jimmy_Cason

#7
January 30, 2006, 03:52:21 PM
QuoteBy the way Jimmy, I noticed that you're building the 20x40 2-story. Do you have any plans for the attic space?

At this time..... I am planning on the cathedral ceiling with cross timbers. And adding a couple of sky-lights above the bed. Love to watch the stars at night.
I have two rooms and a small bathroom planned for upstairs. The bathroom is across from the stairwell. I will run a wall starting at the edge of the stairwell all the way to the inside of the roofline. And another wall parallel to that on the other side of the L-shape stair opening. This will close in each area from the other. The only attic/ storage area will be above the bathroom and stairwell.
I have a layout on my progress page but the second floor plan is different now, It is more like I have described here.
I will update it tonight.

Gotta love those stock plans! We change our minds weekly.
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