seeking comments on my cable railing idea

[MikeT]

Well, I am back to looking at cable railings for my deck.  I tried the weld wire grids idea on her and she said it looks like a cage.   My deck will be quite high off the ground--about 15 feet at the highest spot.  So I am thinking that I do not want to stretch a series of cable horizontally with the requisite 4" spacing because that will create a ladder effect, and I do not want to worry about little kids climbing.

So I am looking at running the cables vertically.  But if I go with a traditional cable system that I see advertised, it will be very expensive.  The cable is expensive for one, but then the requisite hardware is pricey too.  So here is my idea for your comments:

I have my railing posts 6 feet apart and lagged onto the outside of my deck rims (these are hefty--6x10s PT with the joists hung off hangers).  Then on the deck side of the posts, I face nail a 2x4 at the top  and then 4" off the deck on the bottom.  Then on the back side of the horizontal 2x4s, I will secure a turnbuckle (with 200lbs+ rating) and onto the turnbuckle I will attach a cable with a sufficient load rating (I think it only needs to be 200 lbs).  From there I will run the cable up 36" to the other railing and through a loop and then across 3 1/2" to another loop and then down to the same thing on the bottom rail and then up and down until I terminate the run with another turnbuckle where it hits a post.  If this system works like I think, I can increase the tension two different ways:
1.  at the two turnbuckles
2.  by stretching the cable between the vertical runs in the 3 1/2" horizontal section and securing it withe some sort of lag bolt angled up or down.

Then when I am done, I can sandwich this assembly with 2x4s over the cables, loops and any lags.

Does this make sense?

Any comments?

PS: When I asked the inspector, he said was: "As long as a 4" object cannot pass through, I am okay with it.

mt

[Redoverfarm]

Mike not sure of the overall price but you could sandwich small pulley wheels (1" dia) between two 2X4 spaced at 4" and then thread the cable up/down one to the other which would allow you to keep tightening as needed.  Depending upon the length it might not be too expensive. Then just cap it off with the 2X material that would match your overall width.  I can visualize it but hard to explain written down. Maybe a hardware sight would give you some ideas on the material needed. I would however try to go with galvanized or stainless cable. 

[glenn kangiser]

I think it will work OK - you may have to retighten them a time or two like shoe laces.  You could use cable clamps to adjust cable lengthe - you could drill through the deck and put the turnbuckles under the deck inside the outer joist -maybe.  Run the cable on through the floor on each end.

[MountainDon]

How about making the bottom 2x that the cable loops go through, "floating". That is, have a bolt go through the 2x and through the deck board below. Place them near each end between the posts. Adjust the length of the bolt shorter as you need to take up slack.   

That coupled with a turnbuckle or two in the actual cable run could cover any needed adjustments.

[JRR]

I hope I have the correct image of your plan.

To prevent the cables from allowing a 4" dia sphere from passing through, the cables are going to be pretty taunt.  Perhaps several lbs of tension force.  Lets say 50 lbs for example ... that means the cable has 50 lbs tension "throughout".  Each of the vertical cable segments has 50 lbs downward on the top rail ... EACH ONE, that adds up to several hundred lbs pulling down on the rail.  The same thing goes on at the lower rail just in the reverse direction.

The cable would not have to be taunt if you use "spools" of some sort to make the vertical cable segments unbendable.  Don't know if this would appeal to you.  The spools would have to be nearly fulllength ... lower rail to upper rail.  Think decorative pipe, wooden tubes, etc, etc.

Or, what about a cable "net" ... vertical and horizontal cable runs.  Each time the cable crosses itself it gets a 90 degree cable clamp.

[glenn kangiser]

How about Tennis net? 

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001ZJ39I?smid=A25ZI57Y3P9YJO&tag=nextag-sg-20&linkCode=asn

[CREATIVE1]

Couldn't you go with small diameter metal rods, drilling holes top and bottom in wooden railings?  We did something similar for a gate, and it looks really good.  I'll see if I can get you a picture.

[firefox]

I did the same thing using 3/4 inch SS pipe for the top and bottom raills and 1/4" SS tubing for the vertical bars. Just drilled the holes assembled them and then welded the tubes to the pipe. I don't have a working camera, but they came out very nice and are still in use after 10 or more years.

If you use wood rails and the SS tubing, you could drill the holes for the tubing half way into the wood for all but the end two tubes. Drill them all the way through on the bottom rail and half way through in the top rail., then flare the bottom end of those two with a matching bevel in the wood. slip the tube through and then half way into the top rail. Then pin it in place.

The sections can then be placed on short posts with a metal dowel that mates with the open end of the tube at the bottom of each corner. This assumes that the upper portion is secured solidly.

bruce

[Redoverfarm]

Having a hard time picturing Firefox's discription but he mentioned the use of pipe.  This would be very easy to install. Using short pieces of pipe as rollers for the cable to roll over and pull tight against.  Using a spade bit the diameter of the pipe drill the inside of 2 X 4's  at a specified depth leaving your choice between the 2X4's for the cable to travel through.  Do the same on the bottom and just weave the cable up and down at the width specified.  On one end install a turn buckle as as I believe Don mentioned below deck and out of sight. The pipe's will only be visible on the bottom rail and if the spacing is small enough it will be minimal visual disturbance.  The cable should ride well over the pipe and the pipe should roll some when tightening.   Just my $.02 worth.   

[MountainDon]

I think firefox is describing a system he used that did NOT involve cables at all. Strictly pipes; a horizontal upper and lower, and smaller diameter vertical bars.

[John Raabe]

I'm doing a new page for the Owner-builder Gallery (Amy and Dan's 1-1/2 story). They did a nice job on the stair and loft rails that might give you some ideas.

[CREATIVE1]

Wow, that looks great.

[firefox]

Thanks Don! I just have to get a camera, and learn how to do computer sketches better.
Bruce

[Sassy]

The cable railing looks very nice     The whole house looks great