A Floor Called Lazerus:

[fourx]

...well, that's what I'd like to call it.
Take a hardwood floor that has been down over twenty years, sanded, stained and finished with two coats of Cabothane- wax brings it back up to a fine gloss, but is very labor intensive and dangerous if you have a lot of rugs and are slightly chronologicaly challenged.
Is there something which will bring the floor back to a high gloss without the slipping problem wax has?

[glenn kangiser]

How about suction cups on your tenny runners, Pete :-?

[Amanda_931]

There are pads you can put under the rugs so they won't slip.

This company calls them "liners" and sells two or three different kinds (one adhesive to secure fancy stair treads to the stair).  Not recommending their products (no opinion on theirs versions of these, but some brand is available lots of places, and these people may not sell abroad anyway)

http://www.plowhearth.com/product.asp?pcode=8786&crs=9905&ref=product

[MountainDon]

... as in back from the dead?

My experience with under the rug non skid pads over hardwood flooring is that they work pretty good but eventually loose their grip.  :-/  I've also used a brush on latex material with varied success. Had some trouble with it sticking too good and sticking to the floor. It was easy to remove from the wood tho... rolled up with finger rubbing.

... air nailer would work...

[fourx]

I had heard of a combination of boiled linseed oil with some other styff which would restore dull floors without making them slippery, but I have never found it.

[glenn kangiser]

I have heard of using car wax - obviously slippery - and Bees Wax -- maybe not as slippery - found a formula here

http://www.beesource.com/eob/beeswax.htm

Beeswax in the Arts.

Since the United States pure-food law went in effect June 30, 1906, beeswax has had a much larger use. The law will have no effect one way or the other on the use of paraffin, ceresin, and the like in any compound or mixture that does not belong either to the food or drug classes. Electrotypers can use a substitute for taking impressions, although the great majority prefer pure beeswax, even at a higher price. Natural-wood finishers can still use paraffin and ceresin; but most of them assert that there is nothing to compare for that purpose with pure beeswax. The first mentioned gives a greasy, smeary finish, while the product from the hive yields a highly polished surface - one that stands wear as nothing else will; a finish cheaper than hard oil - not in the price by the gallon, but cheaper per square foot of surface covered.

[highlight]A very satisfactory floor finish can be made by melting a pound of beeswax, and while it is cooling, stirring into it some turpentine. An exact proportion of the two ingredients is not necessary - in fact some workmen prefer the paste thick, others want it thin. When cool, if the mixture is too thick it is a simple matter to thin it by working in more turpentine.[/highlight]

The Roman Catholic Church uses large quantities of beeswax in the form of candles. The Church does not tolerate paraffin, ceresin, nor any of the mineral waxes, all of which give off an offensive greasy odor while burning, whereas candles made of beeswax leave a delightful perfume. Moreover, the burning of mineral wax causes a deposit that injures pictures, while beeswax mellows and preserves them.

Certain grades of blacking, harness oils and lubricants require pure beeswax in their manufacture. A blacking containing beeswax will withstand more dampness than that made of any other substance.

The electrical-supply business is a consumer of beeswax. The windings of the wire are soaked in paraffin or beeswax - preferably the latter, because it seems less affected by extremes of heat and by moisture. Pattern-makers also use beeswax. The profession of dentistry consumes large quantities of pure wax every year to take impressions in the mouth. Last, but not least, the beekeeper is a large consumer as well as a producer of wax.

In all the arts, paraffin, ceresin and certain other mineral waxes can be used; but none of them have all the desirable qualities furnished by the product from the hive.

[jonsey/downunder]

Fourx, You could try this. Add 1-1/2 cups of vinegar to a 10lt bucket of water and give them a wash. We haven't used any wax on our floors and the missus just dusts it daily with a mop and gives it a wash with water and dish washing liquid once a week, or as needed. Seems to stay shiny without being slippery.
There are a number of products on the market for cleaning up timber floors. You could have a peek at these sites. I have used Woodman's and found them to be on the ball and easy to deal with, haven't had any dealings with the other. I think Woodman's are in your area.
http://www.wood-mans.com.au/TB/WOODWASH.htm
http://www.antonsfloors.com.au/contact.htm

Or, Tony is fairly knowledgeable on floor coatings, I have used their products and find him helpful and easy to deal with.
Synteko Pty Ltd
Tony Kellman
Unit 19/380 Eastern Valley Way Chatswood NSW 2067
Web site  http://www.spec-net.com.au/links/link0087.htm

Some info on linseed oil that may be worth considering. http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/inflin.html

[fourx]

Thanks for this info, Jonsey, much appreciated- I will check them all out. My missus uses dishwashing liquid as well, says it works better than anything else to clean with.