SardonicSmile's 20x30' 1/2 Cottage Home (with costs)

archimedes · March 06, 2010, 08:49:57 AM

Interesting.

I always think the fun starts when the foundation is finished and the framing starts (my favorite part).

Keep the pics coming. Good luck.

SardonicSmile · March 08, 2010, 10:49:20 AM

Before I forget..

Cost Update

$739 - Block, mortar, and sand for stem wall
$450 - Labor for the block work, including the batter boards

---------------

Also, my plumber says not to call him out until the stem wall and filling is completely done.. how is he going to get through the stem wall? Seems like it would be easier to plan for holes ahead of time, but he says not to.

Here's a better picture of the L block, if anyone is interested.
The bottom left block.

March 13, 2010, 06:32:48 PM

Got the block in!

cbc58 · March 14, 2010, 08:41:25 AM

really nice setting you have. do you have any drainage system around the foundation system you are putting in? based on what you describe will they come in and pour a floor to the top of the foundation.. ?? i guess the plumber comes in before hand and pipes go in before the pour?

diyfrank · March 14, 2010, 09:38:10 AM

What are you using the cement for?
Are you mixing your own concrete for the slab?

March 14, 2010, 09:54:58 AM

Quote from: cbc58 on March 14, 2010, 08:41:25 AM
really nice setting you have. do you have any drainage system around the foundation system you are putting in? based on what you describe will they come in and pour a floor to the top of the foundation.. ?? i guess the plumber comes in before hand and pipes go in before the pour?

Thanks ; ) I have the stem wall so that I can build up dirt and create a small slope away from the house. And yes, first we have to back-fill it, do the plumbing, and then we will pour the slab. The plumber just drills/cuts through the block.

SardonicSmile · March 14, 2010, 09:56:42 AM

Quote from: diyfrank on March 14, 2010, 09:38:10 AM
What are you using the cement for?
Are you mixing your own concrete for the slab?

Those white bags are actually bags of sand. The block layer called for 3 tons of sand, but only needed one. We also have about 10 bags or mortar left. I'm going to use them to fill the walls.

SardonicSmile · March 31, 2010, 06:42:36 PM

Got quoted $4,000 on plumbing today. Just one bathroom, a kitchen, and plumbing to the washer/dryer.

If I can't find anyone MUCH cheaper, I'm doing it all myself.

Cost Update
$1000 for #57 rock for back-filling.

Anyway.. got the back-filling in.

cbc58 · April 01, 2010, 09:34:02 AM

did you put down the proper construction fiber mat/barrier before you layed in that stone...?? don't see any edges in the pics...

April 01, 2010, 11:25:30 AM

There are climate differences in the practice of where to install a vapor retarder under a slab, but current practice in most places is to pour the slab on the retarder surface itself. A good material choice is cross-laminated poly placed on top of the crushed rock (which will stop ground water from wicking upwards).

See: http://www.nrmca.org/aboutconcrete/cips/29p.pdf

John Raabe · April 01, 2010, 12:07:51 PM

cbc58 reminded me it is April 1st

and he wasn't really expecting SardonicSmile to dig up all that gravel! Got me on that one.

However, there are places where installers like to see the fabric/retarder on the soil itself below a sand or gravel topping.

SardonicSmile · April 01, 2010, 05:46:52 PM

Been talking with a lot of contractors and everyone seems to lay the barrier right on top of the back-filling here. Back-filling, plumbing, barrier, and mesh.. in that order.

SardonicSmile · April 02, 2010, 05:32:33 PM

Got another plumbing bid for $2300, including fixtures after we pour the slab. The guy for $4,000 wasn't even going to do that. I knew it was a little high..

SardonicSmile · May 11, 2010, 06:48:55 AM

Got one or two things done...

More info and pics are coming, I've been really busy lately.

May 11, 2010, 01:38:49 PM

Hey SardonicSmile! I've been registered here, but mostly lurking for a good while. Your project is looking good. I like seeing what local people are doing--anything in Upstate South Carolina.

Pilgrim
Inman, SC

texasgun · May 30, 2010, 09:27:54 AM

Would love to see your progress pictures.

I 've been checking every day since you posted the framing one.

speedfunk · June 01, 2010, 06:39:15 PM

wow..your slab went in quick. Looks nice from a distance.

SardonicSmile · June 03, 2010, 09:11:14 AM

Sorry about the lack of updates: I work at a small engine repair shop and this is the BUSY season.. not to mention the house.

The house is completely dried in, shingles are on, doors/windows are in. Electric is done and HVAC and insulation are on the way. I do have pictures and hopefully I'll be able to get online at home pretty soon.

Side note: The insulation required for the "cathedral ceiling" upstairs is apparently R30, which is impossible to fit in the 2X8" ceiling. I'll either have to box the rooms in upstairs or extend the 2x8's with 2x4's.

Oh, and I learned the hard way.. the stairs in the plans are nowhere near code anywhere in the USA.

John Raabe · June 03, 2010, 09:43:27 AM

Sounds like great progress.

In most areas R-30 insulation is required in single rafter (cathedral) ceilings. This is called out in the plans on the Cross Section (sheet 2). If you don't want to sister a rafter to the bottom of the 2x8s you can use 1-1/2" or so foamboard to bring the value up.

Yes, for upstairs sleeping rooms the cottage stair is too steep for many code jurisdictions (small storage lofts are usually OK). The booklet that came with your plans has a sheet of alternative stair options (page 3) including the larger "Standard U Stair" that will work anywhere.

Osprey · June 03, 2010, 07:20:22 PM

Quote from: SardonicSmile on June 03, 2010, 09:11:14 AM
Sorry about the lack of updates: I work at a small engine repair shop and this is the BUSY season.. not to mention the house.

The house is completely dried in, shingles are on, doors/windows are in. Electric is done and HVAC and insulation are on the way. I do have pictures and hopefully I'll be able to get online at home pretty soon.

Side note: The insulation required for the "cathedral ceiling" upstairs is apparently R30, which is impossible to fit in the 2X8" ceiling. I'll either have to box the rooms in upstairs or extend the 2x8's with 2x4's.

Oh, and I learned the hard way.. the stairs in the plans are nowhere near code anywhere in the USA.

I used 2X10's for my rafters and standard R-30 is still a tight fit after putting in the ventilation chutes. I ended up using R-30C which is made for cathedral ceilings. It is denser and gives you that extra inch to compensate for the chutes.

June 20, 2010, 08:08:01 PM

These are from about 3 weeks ago - more updates and prices are coming. At this point I was around $18,000.

diyfrank · June 20, 2010, 10:31:54 PM

Your place is coming together quickly. You've been busy.
I'm lucky if I get 1 weekend a month off to work on mine.

Looking great!

SardonicSmile · June 21, 2010, 06:24:49 AM

Quote from: diyfrank on June 20, 2010, 10:31:54 PM
Your place is coming together quickly. You've been busy.
I'm lucky if I get 1 weekend a month off to work on mine.

Looking great!

I forgot to mention that I didn't dry it in myself. I came across a very good deal ($3,000 labor) and I took it.

burr · June 21, 2010, 09:32:59 AM

10/12 pitch ? loft/upstairs looks roomy, stairs turned out real nice.

SardonicSmile · June 22, 2010, 08:38:57 PM

Quote from: burr on June 21, 2010, 09:32:59 AM
10/12 pitch ? loft/upstairs looks roomy, stairs turned out real nice.

12/12. The stairs are nice but they are unfortunately not code ; ( Gonna take some work to make the inspector OK it.