Laser or Level

[peter_nap]

When I stopped building they weren't using high tech items like lasers. For general measurement I used a line level, for more precise things I used a water level and to get it right, a transit and grade stick.

I'd like some input from those using them, if it is worth buying a laser for one last project?

[desdawg]

One of the big advantages to a laser over a transit/level IMO is that one person can operate it alone. The laser sits on a tripod and does it's thing while you are at the other end with the grade rod and receiver doing your thing. One person has been replaced by a handful of batteries. I use a water level when I don't have a clear line of sight i.e. blocking & leveling a mobile home.

[glenn-k]

I think it is if you have the cash to spare.  I use mine every month or two and still feel it's worth it.  As desdawg says - it replaces a helper -- a few days of that could pay for one.

[peter_nap]

I have the cash Glenn....but I don't think I've had spare cash for the last 50 or so years  

I am funny about foundations though. It's been a long time since I did one  and if the foundation isn't perfect, it causes me problems all the way up.

[glenn-k]

Aren't we all there.

It's a trade off between not needing a helper - or possibly inept helper - speed -- ease of use -etc.

Some of it is the desire to just have cool toys.

[MountainDon]

Some of it is the desire to just have cool toys.

Ah-men!

[n74tg]

Unless you buy a good laser, the beam spread over as little as a 50 foot measurement will be very disappointing.  I've seen 1/4" to 3/8" spread at 50 feet.  

Likewise, anything less than a good laser won't project a good beam far enough for the dot (or line) to be seen on your rod or stick.  

I like the good old water level; simple...and accurate.

[peg_688]

   For one job , RENT ONE.  You should be able to "know" which days you'll need it on site and just pick up and return same day / days.  

But the depends on IF your site is remote . a long way from rental place, etc.   If it's a "normal " type distance rental would be the way to go , Pawn shop shopping might be another, but buyer beware what you might end up with :-/

[peter_nap]

Thanks Guys. I have a friend that has an old fashioned transit I can use. I guess I'll stick with I know. Peg, I'm about 100 miles from the nearest rental place.

My wife has stopped changing details on the place so she decided to change locations. Lord what a grade. I nearly flipped the tractor twice clearing it. To make matters worse, it lopes to the right hard and in front....hard.

I can grade it back some but even then, I'm going to have one corner of the front porch up 6' as opposed to the other corner.

Soooooo....I just changed the plans to use 6"X8" and go a foot deeper with the hole.

[peter_nap]

Here's the new spot before I cleared. It's steeper than it looks. The river is where the big trees are. Good view, PITA to build on.

[glenn-k]

Think about how the solar etc. will affect your house in the new location, Peter.

[peter_nap]

   [highlight]Think about how the solar etc. will affect your house [/highlight]

Already have Glenn. It works out pretty well. Taking the picture, I am facing due east. We are near the top of the hill and will have an unobstructed to the south and west for the solar.

The tractor shed will be to the left and the panels go on the roof of that with a battery bank in an underground, vented and drained container. This keeps them warm during winter.

To the right and down is where two of the springs come together. That's where the hydro goes.

The prevailing breeze comes from the river and a 20' tower puts the wind ginny above all the trees.

The composting toilet needs to stay at a minimun of 55 degrees to maintain maximum efficiency. That goes in a solar space under the right corner of the house with a coldfame vent in it. The crapper  will operate on AC,DC or no electric. It works best if it has power to the fan in the vent pipe(40 watt)....That gets a dedicated 45 watt panel .

The solar hot water panel goes on the roof just over the right hand corner.

It all works pretty well.

The air is cooler in the bottom near the river so the intake end of the earth tube goes there

[glenn-k]

A thought about earth tubes -- I think yours is going to be powered, but - cold air gets heavy and falls as in the middle east cooling towers.  To me it seems that the ideal location for a cool tube inlet is up hill -- then the air cools from the ground - condenses - assists it self in ventilation by getting heavy and falling into the house.  Quite a bit of condensation can be formed so a drain at the low end is necessary whichever way it goes. :-?

Note that I haven't done it.  Just going on physics theory, pilot experience  and things I've read.

[peter_nap]

That's what the solar chimney is for Glen. When it heats up it creates a vacuum inside the house that draws air from the tube. I haven't tried that yet either but that's what the guru's say. It's also supposed to cut the amount of mold in the pipe because there is two way air travel.

If I find that's unacceptable I will switch it to a closed system with a heat exchanger in either the river or spring.

[glenn-k]

I've read a bit on the solar chimneys -- sounds good.  It will be interesting to see how it actually works.