Nails vs Screws

[firefox]

I am disabled and have a bit of a balance problem so I tend to try to brace myself in places so I don't fall. It is hard to stop an old Marine. I find nailing difficult as a result of this, so I tend to always try to use
screws with a screw gun. I can usually do this one handed while bracing myself with the other hand.

My question is, when do I have to use nails so that I meet code requirements? An example I have, is that
I have to put in a new garage roof, and I would like to take advantage of things like simson stuff, but
they always show nails being used. Can I substitute screws, and if so, what type?

Thanks for any help on this! This has got to be the best site ever.
Bruce

[peg_688]

Bruce I don't think they make screws for Simpson stuff except a few hold downs that come with the required fasteners . You could use  either a palm nailer or a positive placement nail gun . Both run off compressed air so a compressor / hose set up would be needed as well.

 Good luck Marine    

[firefox]

Thank you kind Sir!
  I have plenty of air.  5 HP 3 phase compressor which I installed myself along with the 200Amp 3 Phase
service. You know the story...They told me I couldn't do it.

  Can you recomend a particular Nailer? I have strong arms and hands, it's just my legs that are all messed up.

Thanks again for all your help.
Bruce

[peg_688]

 We have both this palm nailer :

 A20 Hand Nailer-Metal Connector



And this sort of glorified palm nailer that hold a strip of Teco type nails :

HN250 Joist Hanger Nailer




 The A20 would be my choice for your situation as you can drive a lot of different types of nails with it , the HN250 is pretty much just for Teco / metal connector type nailing, as the nails that fit into it are limited by the carriage that hold them.


They make a HN150 as well it only shoots a shorter Teco type nail.

Link to the Senco site :

http://www.senco.com/con_rem/prod_finder.aspx

 Semper Fi.  

[glenn-k]

I have one of the Senco palm nailers with a pole barn spike adapter which will drive up to 60d - 6" spikes.  It works great.

[MarkAndDebbie]

I haven't used the senco, but I really like my bostitch

http://www.bostitch.com/default.asp?TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=PN100K

[MountainDon]

I love my regular air nailers, but these palm, one-at-as-time type are super for those nails you can't buy in an air nailer "stick". Things like hot dipped galvanized for when you're using ACQ PT lumber. Or when you don't want to buy the whole box of 2000+ stick nails. My slightly arthritic shoulder also appreciates it.

[firefox]

Thank you all for your help. You have no idea how much I appreciate this. I have been
going through hell from the city to get this stupid garage fixed and re roofed in about 3 weeks.

I think I will go with theA20 as recomended. What is the part number for the pole barn spike adapter?
I didn't see it listed, but I figure I should at least see if I can afford it. It sounds like just the thing to get
me out of those inevitable situations I seem to get into all the time.
Thanks,
Bruce

[glenn-k]

I don't remember where I found the number - on the literature it says it will go to 70d nails - - I ordered it from a Senco Dealer.  About $25.00 as I recall.

[FrankInWI]

wow, Mountain Dan said "Things like hot dipped galvanized for when you're using ACQ PT lumber" and I thought....am i missing something?  I sure was!  Has the danger of using the wrong types of nail, bolts and fasteners been discussed here? This articel woke me up.  Glad I read this now, I'm thinking of doing my bottom wall plates attached to the slab in PT lumber.

PR Lumber Woes
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0NTF/is_3_12/ai_n6048467

[MountainDon]

Frank, I believe it has been mentioned here at sometime, but not sure if the problem was featured.

FYI, ACQ is one of the reasons for the development of those special Deck Screws... they're okay for ACQ PT lumber. In a similar vein the Simpson Z-Max products are rated for ACQ use. Using 30# roofing felt (or asphalt shingle.... ) as an "insulator" between ACQ and a metal bracket can also help with alleviating the problem. The problem stems from the fact that in the presence of moisture the steel and copper (the "C" in ACQ) don't get along well... the 2 metals create a battery of sorts (how many volts?) and that leads to accelerated corrosion.

Info links
http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/selection-guide.html
http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/ptwoodfaqs.html
http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/barriersfaqs.html
http://www.strongtie.com/products/categories/zmax.html

A couple years ago I screwed down some ACQ planks using the run-of-the-mill yellow zinc electroplated screws. Earlier this year some places were popping loose. The 3 inch screws had corroded down to 3/4 to 1 inch little rusty pointed bits of metal with no threads left.  

[glenn-k]

How about a little report on how many volt's Don --- possibly you could provide us with a few numbers :-?

You do have a nice multi-meter, don't you :-?

You don't have to present it in spreadsheet form.

Unless you want to. :-/

What is the potential between the metals?

Try multiple potentials -Iron, zinc, copper

ACQ (alkaline copper quaternary)  Alkaline energizers anybody?  This one will have to have future ramifications, eh. :-?





Data from Rust Power -by John Hait   http://rmrc.org/rustpower.html
http://rmrc.org/
Rocky Mountain Research Center

[firefox]

One more question along these lines. What type of air nailer should I get for the small stuff like
shingles or roofing stuff? This ofcourse assumes I can afford it.
Thanks, And thanks for the warning about the ACQ eating the connectors. I did note that they said that you didn't need to wory about 1/2 inch bolts or larger. I am wondering why that is true, It would seem that if it ate the threads, you would loose big time.
Bruce

[glenn-k]

Possibly when it has eaten enough away it loses contact and is no longer a battery, but there is still enough holding if it wants to jump off of the foundation in an earthquake.

You may want to hand nail shingles or it takes a special nailer just for them - coil nailer.

[MountainDon]

Glenn, I see the potential.  :-/


Bruce, unless you plan on more roofs or just lie to collect tools, I'd hand nail. Not too many other uses for a roofing nailer. Or see if you can rent one.

[glenn kangiser]

I am disabled and have a bit of a balance problem so I tend to try to brace myself in places so I don't fall. It is hard to stop an old Marine. I find nailing difficult as a result of this, so I tend to always try to use
screws with a screw gun. I can usually do this one handed while bracing myself with the other hand.

My question is, when do I have to use nails so that I meet code requirements? An example I have, is that
I have to put in a new garage roof, and I would like to take advantage of things like simson stuff, but
they always show nails being used. Can I substitute screws, and if so, what type?

Thanks for any help on this! This has got to be the best site ever.
Bruce

Another point on this - the Simpson specs are for nails because they flex rather than break.  Screws are not spec'd and are  not allowed if not specified for the use in the code.  Another contractor mentioned that to me.  I have had screws shear from wood shrinkage on my big door.

Don, that is from the E-Book I got that tells you how to make batteries by decomposing metals.  Any metals.  Your entire foundation could become a power source but as soon as the anchor bolts entirely turn to rust, your power will stop and your house could blow away.  This is a new and interesting mandatory experiment by the Building code/Building official/Corporate Big Business/Taxation conglomerate at the expense of the homeowners of America or anyplace the codes affect the building industry.

Anytime this mixture of wood and metal becomes slightly damp, it will become a battery and decompose the metal at a mild to fast rate.  The extra zinc is merely an extra sacrificial layer only prolonging the agony of the metal decomposition.  It should help to get you past warranty though.

[firefox]

Thanks, I wondered why they never seemed to spec screws.
Also I guess I'll have to figure out how to do the hand nailing without
falling off the roof....Hmm, I think I just found out an excuse for lying down on the job.
Bruce

[glenn kangiser]

Forgot to mention that most screws are much harder so that is why they snap rather than bend like nails.  Since they cannot slide in the wood when overstressed, they break at the weakest point - usually somewhere near the top of the thread.

Wood - from wet to dry can shrink about 3/4 inch per foot - plus or minus a bit.  Even at only about 1000 lbs per inch tensile strength (in reality it could go more), the wood can easily overcome the shear strength of most screws, breaking them in a possible catastrophic failure if the screw is in the shear plane.

[MountainDon]

You can demionstrate the brittleness of screws compared to nails quite simply. Drive a 12 D or 16D nail a couple inches into a 4x4 or something similar.  Drive a deck screw (that's the type we'd likely choose to ue on some construction project) in a couple inches as well. Wack each with your hammer; chances are excellent the screw will shear off while the nails just bend over.