Author Topic: 24 x 46 1.5 Story in Ohio (Read 13955 times)

dablack · « **Reply #25 on:** December 18, 2011, 02:19:42 PM »

looks great. If you don't mind me asking how much was the spray in insulation. We are going to be doing about the same thing and I'm trying to get everything figured out.

thanks
Austin

beckhamk · « **Reply #26 on:** December 19, 2011, 05:04:31 PM »

Total cost was $6600. $1650 was for the spider blowning for the walls and the rest $4950 was for the ceiling and floor. We got 8.5 in in the ceiling and 5-6in under the floor. But i can tell you we got a few more inches than we paid for as they really filled in the floor and ceiling fairly well.

beckhamk · « **Reply #27 on:** January 09, 2012, 04:28:42 PM »

Well another weekend at the cabin got a few things done. I have my wife as a helper she is great help, but i dont let her run the miter saw so things are a little slow climbing up and down the scaffolding. Gets tirering really quick. TIP: have someone to help that can cut while you stay up on the platform

Got the front wall and wall going up the loft stairs almost done

Here is 1/3rd of one side of the ceiling

Wanted to show anyone that was interested how i pre-trimmmed out the doors. We did not think about ordering the door jambs to not only fit the 2x6 wall but to account for the 3/4in of T&G. So we built out the original frame. This actuall doesnt look all that bad and i can live with it. Eventually we will trim around the door.

There other 1/3rd of one side of the ceiling kitchen side. This side seemed to go up really quick. I am thinking the more i do this
the faster i am getting. Just need more help

beckhamk · « **Reply #28 on:** January 24, 2012, 01:34:11 PM »

Well we had a very busy weekend. We put up more scaffolding and had my father-inlaw down to help us put up the ceiling. It tooks us two days about 11 hours with breaks and lunch to get it done each day. The 1x8 T&G goes up fast until you have to cut around something in the ceilings.

Sassy · « **Reply #29 on:** January 25, 2012, 03:35:26 PM »

Looking really nice! Bet it feels great to get the the T&G up - not an easy job for the looks of it...

astidham · « **Reply #30 on:** January 25, 2012, 07:20:12 PM »

very nice!
after finishing the ceiling in our cabin, crawling up and down the scaffolding to no end, my wife decided to cut some T&G wall boards for me.
after several nice, accurate cuts, I turned all the cutting over to her.
it is so much faster..

beckhamk · « **Reply #31 on:** January 29, 2012, 03:28:40 PM »

Some more pics.... Ceiling and loft ends are finished and trimmed!

Just need to figure out what we plan to put on it.

When I first started putting up the loft wall ends I just kept measuring and cutting accordingly. I even started this when i could cut one single 16ft or 14ft to fit on the wall with weach end cut off at 40 degrees. Then I noticed a little trick that i wanted to pass along, some might already know this but hopefully it will make someones life easier.

This is for cutting the angles for a single board for the ceiling. I had bought what i call an angle tool, I am not sure of the exact name lowes/HD carry them. mine has a red handle with a level bubble in it and then a metal rule looking thing that can slide all around and be locked in place. Basically you can place this on the top of your nailed T&G and slide it into the corner to get the correct angle of your ceiling. You might need to move the metal rule to get the angle. Then i used that to verify the correct angle to use on my miter. Mine ended up being 45 degrees.

So I cut one end of a 16ft T&G angle and then measured the botton to the other side and cut that angle. This gave me my first starting bord to use.
Here was my trick to make the rest of the board going up easier and faster to cut. I took the wedge/triangle wood that u just cut off and measured it on the top from the flat end to the point. This gave me 9 1/4 so i doubled that for the other side getting 18 1/2.

Next I cut the angled end of a new T&G board, then placed the previous on on it and got its exact length. Next from the angled end I measured the 18 1/2 and then cut that additiona 45 degree angle off. This then gave me my template to keep reducing the next T&G board by 18 1/2. Once i knew this the one end went up lightning fast and there was no recutting and remeasuring issues.

The place where i got our T&G didnt sell white pine trim, and i kept thinking ahh ok i can use lowes/hd trim. Well i had recently bought a new table saw and it can also be angled up to 45 degrees. So I decided to make my own trim for the center of our ceiling. I basically ripped 2in strip of the T&G, then set the table saw to 45 degrees and cut each side. This would allow my trip piece to sit nicely in the wedge between the two ceilings.

I was then left with these long triangle looking rips. I had an idea and then used them for my corner trim in the loft. here is a pic. I think i will be using this for all of the corners now. No need for lowes trim.

beckhamk · « **Reply #32 on:** January 29, 2012, 03:30:32 PM »

I also wanted to thank astidham for some tips. It helped me get the T&G up faster. I hear you on the wife using the miter. I wouldnt let her touch it. I didnt want to even think about running to the hospital. Once her dad showed up it ws much faster.

rick91351 · « **Reply #33 on:** January 29, 2012, 04:49:10 PM »

Quote from: beckhamk on January 29, 2012, 03:30:32 PM

I also wanted to thank astidham for some tips. It helped me get the T&G up faster. I hear you on the wife using the miter. I wouldnt let her touch it. I didnt want to even think about running to the hospital. Once her dad showed up it ws much faster.

Gee, my wife doesn't let me use her miter saw.

Don_P · « **Reply #34 on:** January 29, 2012, 06:29:09 PM »

Ours was an anniversary present... she asked for it

astidham · « **Reply #35 on:** January 31, 2012, 04:57:25 PM »

Quote from: beckhamk on January 29, 2012, 03:30:32 PM

I also wanted to thank astidham for some tips. It helped me get the T&G up faster. I hear you on the wife using the miter. I wouldnt let her touch it. I didnt want to even think about running to the hospital. Once her dad showed up it ws much faster.

everything looks spectacular!
glad the tips helped.

beckhamk · « **Reply #36 on:** April 08, 2012, 12:46:37 PM »

Well its been a short while since I posted some new pics. We have been chugging along on the inside getting more and more T&G put up. Was a little slow until recently once we finalized the AC stuff. So now that its installed we are back on corse.

Our exavator finally got back to business and pushed all of the dirt back for the final grade! yeah been waiting since oct (next dry day yeah right lol) But its finally here....

We also found a much nicer corner shower at homedepot, its 42in long vs the 38 we had. Looks so much better and the walls are fiberglass! Big note here: If you ever go looking for a corner show, make sure the walls are fiber glass and that the model you are looking at on display in the one you are grabbing! I have seen some models at the big bix stores that had FG walls, but the one we looked at didnt. We knew originally that the first one did not have FG walls, I was under the impression we had flat FG walls to glue up. Later found out this was paper thin plastic of some sorts you had to glue up on green board. After alot of comptemplating and now knowing we will be using much much more than we expected. We dedcided to replace it.

beckhamk · « **Reply #37 on:** April 08, 2012, 12:50:25 PM »

I have been wanting a place to store my toys since this last hunting season. So I had the amish crew that put our roof on, cut up a bunch of the trees the exavator pushed up into firewood and then had them put up a 24x32 pole barn.

Now we are just waiting on the concrete floor.

Oh if you are curious as to why the windows are so high, well it seems you run into alot of nosy people in the country LOL. So i had them put the windows up high. The one you cant see opposite of the garage door will be for hunting, I plan to build a platform and open that window for gun/muzzleloader. I think my wifes uncle will use it the most, as he cant walk the hills too well now a days.

I also bought two OXFORD TERRA FORCE in ground anchors - you see what they look like here:
http://lockitt.com/lockdown.htm#Terraforce These will be placed in the concrete and later on we can chain up the toys

I also had to order this from the UK, no one in the US had them in stock and supposedly had a backorder. But ebay and the UK did not.

beckhamk · « **Reply #38 on:** April 08, 2012, 12:58:24 PM »

Lastly, the biggest change to our cabin is the deck. We wanted this done in Dec. but due to the final grade not being done we couldnt get it started. Finally we could start this, so far most of the deck is finished. We just need to get the porch put on and the metal roofing that will match the existing roof.

In case anyone watns to know the size of the deck, here it is: The front portion of the deck which will have a metal roof covering is 8ft x 46ft.
The rear is 8ft x 24ft and the end with all of the windows is 16ft x 40ft.

I wanted a beefier look, so all of the posts are 6x6 posts.

More pictures to come as we progress.

RIjake · « **Reply #39 on:** April 08, 2012, 05:41:24 PM »

That looks fantastic. Quite a deck! Curious as to what the lumber costs for something like that, approximate?

Nice barn too!

gringo · « **Reply #40 on:** April 08, 2012, 06:16:10 PM »

The deck will make the place!...from the fairly common to the grand, I think.

mogie01 · « **Reply #41 on:** April 09, 2012, 03:44:34 AM »

Your place looks fantastic

astidham · « **Reply #42 on:** April 09, 2012, 01:41:15 PM »

how deep are your deck post and are they concreted or earth?

beckhamk · « **Reply #43 on:** April 09, 2012, 02:35:40 PM »

Thanks everyone, slowly but surely we will get this finished.

approximate wood cost was around $6k.

I went back and forth on the concreting the posts, but we ended up earthing them in, but they have a 4in x 15in circular concrete pad just like the ones they use in the pole barns under each post and then ther dirt around them, The county we live in doesnt like concrete to be poured around the posts, they say it supposedly eats at the post (or maybe its the water eating at the posts). Back at our house different county they require concrete around the posts... go figure.

Oh and the depth of the post holes is 36in.

astidham · « **Reply #44 on:** April 09, 2012, 02:44:06 PM »

it looks great, my wife wants one like it now!!

Alan Gage · « **Reply #45 on:** April 09, 2012, 04:43:24 PM »

Don't know if it's right or wrong but when I was putting in some posts I asked my building supplier whether I should put them in concrete or crushed rock. He said the problem with concrete is that the post will shrink and pull away from the concrete, allowing water to enter where it gets trapped and can rot the wood.

Alan

MountainDon · « **Reply #46 on:** April 09, 2012, 05:11:03 PM »

The way I see it is concrete around a post makes for a quick install, but it's hard to beat the dirt you dug out to make the hole as great backfill.

oifmarine · « **Reply #47 on:** April 09, 2012, 07:16:38 PM »

Looks awesome. I love your deck!

beckhamk · « **Reply #48 on:** April 10, 2012, 03:23:02 PM »

Quote from: astidham on April 09, 2012, 02:44:06 PM

it looks great, my wife wants one like it now!!

hopefully, we didnt create too much work for you! I know how i go looking at other builds and get more ideas and can really add up!

beckhamk · « **Reply #49 on:** April 10, 2012, 03:25:05 PM »

Finally got the concrete poured for the pole barn - yeah. almost time for some toys lol.

We got more progress on the deck and the porch roof.

We should be able to get the metal crew working on putting on the metal roof for the porch now! More pictures to come.