Does eave length change any structural details?

[Susan on the Osage Plains]

I am getting ready to order my plans (It's a tossup at this point between VC and the grandfathers---husband has signed off on VC, but I'm thinking the other might be better for us.

Most of the pics I've seen on the sight have relatively short eaves, how far can we extend them. 

I'd ask my brother, but he'd kill me after cussing me out for calling this time of night.....
He works a "normal" schedule.  I can build a lot of things, but a rafter installer/roofer I am not (yet).

[rwanders]

I built a 12/12 pitch roof on a 24x34 with 5' eaves without any braces using 2x12 rafters and without any additional structural features. Total run of rafters is a little over 22' from ridge beam to eave.

[Susan on the Osage Plains]

Was the 2x12 the "stock" rafter or did you "upgrade" it to accomodate your eave length?

I am going with the open look rather than soffits.  That way it will match my existing outbuildings that survived the storm with minimal damage. 

[sjdehner]

I don't think a 5' eave would pass most codes, especially in high wind prone regions. Your ID suggests you may be building in the Plains somewhere so I'd recommend checking the latest IRC.

I recall this discussion somewhere in the code.

Perhaps John Raabe would know, too.

Good luck to you!

S.

[rwanders]

The 2x12's were standard "structural" grade----the ta.ils, or eaves were reduced to 8". No code to deal with here. You may have to add eave braces to get similar designs approved in some areas.  I used the long eaves to prevent snow piling up against my cabin when it sheds my 12/12 metal roof. Works beautifully and gives me a 4' clear area for my walkways on both sides-----also looks very nice

[Don_P]

I think I'm pretty clear about your code requirements  . The main section of the code on this is actually empirical, from long experience, vs from engineering. It is this, if you leave at least a 2x4's worth of material above the birdsmouth notch you may project the tail horizontally from the wall as much as 2'. Beyond that they want engineering. That'll be in the first page or two of the roof chapter.

If you have any kind of wind concerns I wouldn't go much beyond that anyway. Chapter 3 gets into wind design, basically the roof corners and peak experience the greatest pressure from the wind. From the aftermath of storms the lower corners are very often where the breach starts, if it gets in that's usually all she wrote. It would be a good idea to review that info when deciding on connection hardware to restrain uplift from whatever projection you choose.

[rwanders]

Good advice from Don P-----I didn't have a lot of wind exposure at my location and did include good anti-uplift hardware connectors

[Susan on the Osage Plains]

Unfortunately, we have a minor wind problem.  Which is what caused my roof to land across the road in the May 8th inland hurricane.

[Susan on the Osage Plains]

Don,
Chapter 2 and Chapter 3 in what? 

Here, we have no codes, but I want to build to code anyway.

[Don_P]

The IRC codebook is what the majority of us have in one form or fashion. My state's version is here, its pretty "stock" with relatively few changes from the model version.
https://www2.iccsafe.org/states/Virginia/Residential/Res-Frameset.html
the high wind guides here are good also;
http://www.awc.org/index.html

[rwanders]

This is what my cabin looks like----the large eaves and deep covered porch design definitely would present some wind risk on the plains.

[John Raabe]

Good information folks.

Also, with long eave extensions you want to think what it might do to doorways (headroom height) and window shading. This is especially important on steep roofs.

[firefox]

I realize that this might not be ideal under some situations since it is always desireable to not have anything blocking ones view, but here is an idea that may help. If you put a corner post that was set in concrete at an appropriate depth and had the top tied into the far corner of the eaves. Then lace in a steal cable going from the foudation part of the post, up the post and accross the ends of the rafters and down the other post. Repeat as needed around the house.
It should be easy to conceal the cable.  It might make a difference if
thought out and done carefully. At least it may minimize the damage.

Just an idea, no guarantees.
Bruce

[Susan on the Osage Plains]

I really like that PIC!!!   However,,,,,,,not well suited on the plains of Kansas.

I would much rather have an intact roof on my house (as opposed to across the road) than the eaves that will send it across the road.

I really wanted a straw bale house but the husband wouldn't sign off on it.  He signed off on VC. 

[Susan on the Osage Plains]

Rwanders,

I cannot imagine where your place would land if it faced west around here.   

It probably wouldn't be pretty though. 

[rwanders]

   Probably on the wicked witch!

Actually, it does face southwest right into the setting sun. Don't have to face extreme wind----just 40 below and lots of snow but summers are great. Wouldn't want to build this design overlooking the surf down around Miami either.