water supply from meter to house

[MikeT]

I had a temporary CPVC pipe and hosebib right at my meter that accidentally was torn off by the guy who was dumping fill gravel.   I figure I might as well use this as a prompt to run my permanent supply lines, at least to the house.  The water meter is upslope of my house, about 16 feet away from the foundation.   It is on the edge of my asphalt street and sits about a foot down.

1. From the meter to the house, is it ok to use PEX if I properly protect it (run it through conduit, perhaps)?
2. Is there a required depth for the trench for the water supply to the house?
3. Is it best to have the supply line enter the house through a hole in the foundation?  Any tips here?

Thanks,
mt

[glenn kangiser]

Pex is fine direct buried  but must be protected from sunlight/uv.  I don't know what the code says on this but I know about the PEX.  I am speaking of Uponor (Wirsbo) Aquapex.  I don't know about other brands.

Scott A probably knows.

[MikeT]

Glad to know that PEX is okay for direct/underground burial.  Any sense on how deep the trench should be? I suppose I should check with the inspector.  The Uponer/Wirsbo brand is the one I am familiar with by name.  I do not have a clue about others.  I was just going to go with that since I can get the materials relatively easily.

mt

[John Raabe]

Yes the trench depth will be a local issue. We did a 12" wide trench about 30" deep and ran the water line on one side of the trench and power 12" away on the other side. Check with the power company and a plumber to see what your local conditions require.

[ScottA]

1. You can run pex but I'd advise against it. Pex is great stuff but the joints should be in exposed locations IMO where they won't be subject to stress. Pipe in the ground is subject to alot of stresses from settling etc. If you do use pex make sure there are no joints in the ground. The one at the meter is ok since it will be in the meter box. Snake the line so it has some room to flex in the ground. Same goes for PVC or CPVC. I'd use L or K copper.

2. Bury the pipe atleast 6" below the frost line in your area.

3. I usually run the pipe down under the footing then back up under the house unless it has a basement then I come thru the basement wall.

[MikeT]

Thanks.  No matter what way I go (PEX, CPVC, or copper), the line will go from the meter box and then downslope through gravel to a foundation retaining wall.  On top of the gravel, I may have a concrete parking area that extends over some (or most of) the pipeline-- I hope that is okay.  If it is better, I can also just have the line run through gravel to the foundation and have no concrete over it.

As for a trench that runs 6" below the frost line, this is the Oregon coast, so it rarely, rarely freezes.  I sent an email to the inspector, asking for clarification on the trench depth.

mt

[bobtheengineer]

I would strongly recomment Polyethylene Water Service Pipe.  Its black plastic pipe and made exactly for this type of service.  Copper is terribly expensive, and there are still corrosion issues with copper, depending on your water chemistry.  This pipe is thicker walled and made for ground pressure around it.

Just my 2 cents worth.  It is the only kind of water lines they use in this area.

Good Luck

[MountainDon]

  bobtheengineer and thanks for the input.

[MikeT]

Thanks.  I will check on that type of pipe as well.  Does it go by another name or something shorter?

mt

[MountainDon]

This may be the stuff. 

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=24197-000000150-24197&lpage=none

160 psi rating
Meets or exceeds ASTM D-2239 and is listed with NSF for potable water use
Primary use for water distribution (city main or well to house, irrigation)

[ScottA]

I've delt with Polyethylene pipe quite a bit as well. I see it mostly in rural locations. It is just as good as pex or pvc but will not be as reliable as copper. The problem it has is that as it ages it becomes brittle. I'd say it usualy fails after 15 - 20 years of service and once it does you may as well replace it since repairs won't hold long. The main problems I've seen with copper have to do with workmanship issues and incorrect installation. Copper will last in excess of 50 years with fewer problems normaly.

[glenn kangiser]

I'm in the gold country, Scott and we have highly mineralized soil here.  In our area, electrolysis eats holes in copper within a few years.  In the valley they commonly use it and sleeve it in all underground installations.

PEX has none of those problems but if exposed to UV above ground it won't last a year.  20 mil tape wrap will protect it as well as other ways.

[ScottA]

I'm not saying not to use pex Glen I'm just saying that it's easier to have problems if you don't get it in right. I've used just about everything for water services and have found copper to be the most reliable. You are correct there are some soils that don't like copper and if thats the case then by all means use plastic. I fix about 10 water service leaks a month and out of those 9 of 10 are some kind of plastic pipe.

[glenn kangiser]

I used  plain pvc for mine -- pump to tank to house. 

I used the PEX just through the house.  I did the test on a piece of PEX on my hot tub - left it out and in one year it fractured all over and finally broke.

I agree - copper is good also except here or other problem places.  Under the houses in the valley they require soft copper continuous in one piece if going under a slab floor or silver soldered connections - if they still allow that -- I haven't plumbed a complete house in 23 years except the underground complex -- I guess it counts.

[MikeT]

I got an email back from the inspector, saying that in my area, PEX is okay for direct burial, but I need to have a 24" depth.  So my meter is not 24" in the ground, 12" at most.  Does that mean I need to take the pipe and take it straight down for 12" then bend it 90 degrees and run it at that depth to the house?

mt

[MountainDon]

not sure, but maybe that means the meter wasn't put in deep enough?     

Another email to the inspector may be in order.

What kind of pipe is on the supply side of the meter?

[glenn kangiser]

The call to the inspector may be good.  There are elbows for PEX - two 90s would get you right down there -- if you have a bit of room allowed you could just flex it down to grade but that may be where that call comes in.

[MikeT]

Just to semi-close the loop:

I checked with the inspector on how to deal with the depth given my meter's current depth.  He said I can either do a 90 straight down to get it to the depth OR I can take it gradually to the needed depth.

I think that is what I will do.

mt

[glenn kangiser]

That would give you less resistance to flow.