Attaching loft floor

[Micky]

What is the best method to attach the 2X6 T&G loft floor?  I was thinking glue and nail with 16ga 2-1/2" finish nails.  I was planning on nailing through the tongue so that it will be hidden.  I am not planning on gluing the tongue to groove.  Does this all sound right?

 I was also told that I need to screw it down.  I don't want to do this because it would ruin the looks.

Thanks again for your help on the forum.

Micky

[John Raabe]

I'm not an expert installer and a lot depends on the wood and how dry and straight it is.

I think probably the most important tool is a good set of clamps or other "persuaders" to help bring warped boards into position.

You can do blind nailing such as is done with hardwood flooring. I assume you are going into beams rather than 2" joists.

Maybe others will have more experience with the actual installation techniques.

[Amanda_931]

Old wooden runabouts (e.g. Chris-Craft) had their planks counter-sunk, screwed down, then filled with a plug cut from very similar material, excess cut off with a chisel.  (plug-cutter, bung-cutter.  drill press works best for cutting them.)

And after that you sand, stain, fill, and then hand sand something like 7 coats of hand-applied varnish!

One of the millions of jobs I've had.  I was not allowed to varnish.

[Larry]

I would avoid glue.  I know that on things like table tops the wood moves too much to allow it to be glued to the frame.  You always use some sort of screw joint that will allow the boards to expand and contract.  I like the idea of screwing them down and them plugging the holes but it sounds like a lot of work.  I don't know if just blind nailing is a strong enough attachment.  I am almost to the flooring stage myself and have been wondering what the best method would be.  I haven't been able to find much that addresses this kind of flooring.

[glenn kangiser]

For a second story floor just blind nailing may allow squeeks and pops as you walk across the floor.  This can annoy or wake people trying to sleep, study etc.  I would suggest using a bead of construction adhesive on top the joist along with the blind nailing, below the flooring -just large enough to glue the flooring but not large enough to squish out and show beside the joist (if ceiling is below).  If it does it causes a little extra clean-up.

I would not glue the tongue and groove as it needs to move with moisture changes. I have done this in the past.  It works great.  Gluing the tongue and groove may cause buckling of the floor in extended periods of high humidity.

Note that ceramic tile can be used over solid t&g wood flooring if you put a vinyl slip sheet under the tile.  I was instructed to glue the tile to the slip sheet but not the slip sheet to the wood flooring as the wood needs to be free to move under the tile.  This has worked fine for about 7 years.

[Amanda_931]

 I like the idea of screwing them down and them plugging the holes but it sounds like a lot of work.

Why my boss at the time got big bucks for restoring boats!

(It worked better  to bring down Northern boats, restore them, and then sell them.)