Cold Snap Tests High-Performance Homes

Started by MountainDon, January 30, 2014, 06:41:50 PM

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MountainDon

From the JLC

http://www.jlconline.com/passive-design/cold-snap-tests-high-performance-homes_o.aspx?dfpzone=home&utm_source=newsletter&utm_content=jump&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=JLCNL_013014&day=2014-01-30

Cold snaps and power failures have triggered a moment of truth for advanced energy-efficient homes in the Northeast. JLC talked with some homeowners to find out the facts.......
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Alan Gage

Good to see they're doing well. I'm sure there are some people out there that didn't turn out as well as they'd hoped though.

My house has been doing fine. It's certainly not up to the level of the houses featured there but it does have double stud wall construction (10" thick) and a fully insulated slab. Run of the mill double pane vinyl windows and R-70 attic. No foam except for under the slab and no heat exchanger, just a couple vents cut into the walls in the bedroom closets to supply makeup air for the range hood and bathroom fan.

It's been very cold here since mid-December. Lots of days with sub-zero highs and lots of nights around -20. The worst though is that the wind has been blowing non-stop, which isn't common here in extremely cold weather. I heat 100% with wood except for electric baseboard backup when I leave for more than a day or so.  It's a small stove (1.1 cu. ft. firebox) and heats the house up fine. It's no problem keeping the bedrooms in the mid-upper 60's in the coldest weather and the main room with the stove in it will be in the mid-70's or higher when the stove is going full tilt. They even out more as the stove cools. Last year I went through 1 1/2 cords of wood. Will probably be closer to 2 cords this year. It works out perfect because that's as much as I can stack under my covered patio and still have room to walk around.

In a way it's almost easier to run the stove when the weather is really cold (below zero) since I can just feed the stove all day and night without the embers ever dieing. But once it gets up into the teens it takes a lot less wood and it seems I'm always having to start fires in a cold stove, which is a hassle. So much nicer to just throw some logs in and have them ignite by themselves. Amazing the difference there is in wood consumption once you start to drop below 5 degrees.

Alan


rick91351

Quote from: Alan Gage on January 30, 2014, 07:10:49 PM
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In a way it's almost easier to run the stove when the weather is really cold (below zero) since I can just feed the stove all day and night without the embers ever dieing. But once it gets up into the teens it takes a lot less wood and it seems I'm always having to start fires in a cold stove, which is a hassle. So much nicer to just throw some logs in and have them ignite by themselves. Amazing the difference there is in wood consumption once you start to drop below 5 degrees.

Alan

Alan I am sure glad I am not the only one that has noticed that.   In fact I have been accused of tossing wood in the stove just to keep in going and getting it way way too hot....  Our big old insert we had in the house we sold I could bank coals real easy and they would last the day in to the evening.  But it was so big I think you could put one of those small stoves in the firebox.  Well without the legs..... :D well just kidding sort of .....
Proverbs 24:3-5 Through wisdom is an house builded; an by understanding it is established.  4 And by knowledge shall the chambers be filled with all precious and pleasant riches.  5 A wise man is strong; yea, a man of knowledge increaseth strength.

MountainDon

QuoteIn fact I have been accused of tossing wood in the stove just to keep in going and getting it way way too hot....

haven't we all   ;D
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

upa

#4
I had an opportunity to do some whole house heat loss measurements recently and basically I found if the temperature differential between indoor and outdoors is around 20-25 degrees Celsius(68-77F) I loose around 5-6 thousand BTU/hr. If its 30-35 degrees C(86-95F) I am loosing 8-10 thousand BTU/hr. Did some average math over the Oct-March heating season and figured I would need around 2-2.3 cord of dry poplar or 1.4 cord of dry oak if I used my woodstove as primary heat. This is fairly consistent with actual consumption, although its somewhat muddled in that we supplement with propane particularly overnight. I am getting too lazy to stoke the fire at 3 am these days.:)

As a point of reference our place is 1100 sq/ft over 2 stories, R40 in the roof, R24 wall, R20 floors and vinyl framed double pane windows. Windows and doors represent 10% of total wall square footage.